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cv carb, cv carb problems, idle cable, throttle cable adjustment

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  #1  
Old 11th June 2019
mzavala2424's Avatar
mzavala2424 mzavala2424 is offline
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Default Throttle Cable Adjustment Question

I have an interesting issue, while adjusting my cables on my '89 XLH1200 the other day I noticed that even after taking all slack and lengthening the cable adjuster all the way the throttle cam doesn't contact the stop boss.

I was able to follow the rest of the procedure and get the throttle to snap back, but I'm wondering if that means I will never have full WOT? I started with both cables fully collapsed to give the most free play.

Should I try again with less free play in the idle cable? or will that not change anything? Or should I go ahead and order some new cables?

I had to remove the carb and am cleaning out some old gas that had gummed up the jets and am waiting on some new seals to put back together. So if new cables are needed I'd like to order them while I'm waiting on that as well.
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  #2  
Old 11th June 2019
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Are these stock cables? I have seen after market cables that are not the correct length and will never adjust properly.

I back off the return cable so that it is not an issue, then I adjust the throttle cable until it has very little play and works smoothly while still returning the cam to seat. I then bring the return cable back into play but I make sure that it does not cause any bind in the action. I would rather it be a bit loose than bind up the throttle.

Also, make sure that throttle plate is adjusted properly to begin with. If it is held slightly open, the idle will be adjusted in a position where the intermediate ports will be drawing fuel and that will throw everything off from idle through the transition to needle.
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Old 11th June 2019
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Leave the іdle cаble alone (fully slack) until you've got the thrοttle cаble adjusted for WOT. If you can't adjust the cаble so that the thrοttle whеel just contacts the stop at WOT, then something is wrong.

Even if you've got the wrong cаble (too long), you should still be able to make this adjustment; you'll just have excess cаble flopping around. If the іnner cаble is too long for the outer, that would be a problem.

You said you removed the carb; when you put it back on, is it possible that the cаble wasn't routed properly around the throttle wheel?

This is the best explanation I have seen of the procedure for adjusting the thrοttle and іdle cаbles:
Throttle Cable Adjustment
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  #4  
Old 11th June 2019
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Are these stock cables? I have seen after market cables that are not the correct length and will never adjust properly.

Also, make sure that throttle plate is adjusted properly to begin with. If it is held slightly open, the idle will be adjusted in a position where the intermediate ports will be drawing fuel and that will throw everything off from idle through the transition to needle.
Hey wedge, they are indeed aftermarket cables, I think motion pro but I cant remember now.

How can I be certain the throttle plate is adjusted properly? Just with the idle speed screw?
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Old 11th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Folkie View Post
If you can't adjust the cаble so that the thrοttle whеel just contacts the stop at WOT, then something is wrong.

Even if you've got the wrong cаble (too long), you should still be able to make this adjustment; you'll just have excess cаble flopping around. If the іnner cаble is too long for the outer, that would be a problem.
Folkie, I followed the service manual instructions for adjusting the cables, which is the same technique that you have linked to. The return cable was fully "slacked" if you will, before I tried to adjust the throttle cable. I've since pulled the carb off and am waiting on the seals to put it back together, but I'm fairly certain the cables were routed correctly.

I was just wondering though if too much slack in the return cable would cause the throttle cable to not be able to pull the wheel all the way to the stop? I didnt think that was possible but wanted to make sure that wasn't my issue.

It sounds like maybe the inner cable is too long for the housing?
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Old 11th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzavala2424 View Post
I was just wondering though if too much slack in the return cаble would cause the thrοttle cаble to not be able to pull the wheel all the way to the stop? I didnt think that was possible but wanted to make sure that wasn't my issue.
No! Leave the іdle cаble alone (slack) until you've adjusted the throttle (pull) cable. Only adjust the idle cable afterwards, to remove the slack (only so much that the throttle still 'snaps' back).

Quote:
Originally Posted by mzavala2424 View Post
It sounds like maybe the іnner cаble is too long for the housing?
Could be. Was it previously possible to adjust the thrοttle with that cable?
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Old 11th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Folkie View Post
No! Leave the idle cable alone (slack) until you've adjusted the throttle (pull) cable. Only adjust the idle cable afterwards, to remove the slack (only so much that the throttle still 'snaps' back).
Well that answers that question, I was fairly certain that wasn't possible but had to be sure. I honestly couldn't tell you if it did or not, the bike was running before and I don't remember having that issue but I could have also just ignored it to go ride. The cables have been on there for a few years. The bike has not been ridden in six or so months due to us moving a couple times and what not.

If it was like that before I didnt notice but would that have meant I could never really get the bike to WOT? It seemed to ride fine to me before but maybe I was just used to not getting full throttle?
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Old 11th June 2019
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Throttle cable has the shorter adjuster, idle cable has the longer adjuster and both should have a 90 degree elbow at the grip. If this helps.
Was there a chance you got the two cables in the wrong holes on the grip? VOE

Last edited by Toejam503; 11th June 2019 at 22:55..
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Old 12th June 2019
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Hey Toejam, they were definitely in the right part of the grip and carb, the idle cable with the spring was attached from the back of the grip to the inboard part of the carb bracket. The throttle cable without the spring was attached from the front of the grip to the outboard part of the carb bracket.

Both of my cables have the 130* bends coming out of the grip, not sure if that is just a manufacturer choice or not. Could that mean they are not the right year and would have too much travel?
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Old 12th June 2019
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It looks like I misunderstood. The throttle does snap back to the idle position, your issue is that it does not reach WOT?

The problems I have seen with aftermarket cables are like Nigel mentioned, the inner cable is too short for the outer sleeve. In one case I managed to make it work by clipping some material off of the spring that was on the carb end of the cable, and that allowed the outer sleeve to fit deeper into the recess that it fits into. In your case, that is obviously not part of your issue.

Maybe that throttle plate is too far closed so that when you adjust to it, then you don't have the travel left to reach WOT? Have you fired it up? How does it idle? You need to adjust the lower limit of the throttle plate by getting the idle in the right zone (around 1000 to 1100 RPM when the mixture screw is adjusted properly). If that is good now, then I am at a loss here except... WOT is where the throttle plate just reaches wide open. That doesn't mean that the stop has to be reached to get there. The plate being wide open is all that is required.

Travel is determined by the throttle grip not by cable length. The travel is whatever radius that cable groove inside is on your throttle and how far the throttle can turn.
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