possible slipping in drivetrain. looking for help

[Jfart]

Originally Posted by Hippysmack

Here is a PDF from Eaton on tooth damage of spur gears. Good information.
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/ea...0913-en-us.pdf

This is great info with visuals. I’ve been very impressed with my experience Eaton products so far. I swapped my Jeeps dana 44 shitty tru-trac for an Eaton Detroit locker. Could immediately feel the difference and no more worn clutches to destroy all the bearings bearings.

[Jfart]

Originally Posted by bustert

yep i should have written it down, too many things were going on, having to map out my motor rewind job since no one will touch it and if they did would be 1000 bucks.

ratio = driving gear / driven gear
rpm driven gear = rpm driving gear X ratio
invert the equation for driving gear to driven gear rpm.

that said, any rewinders out there in forumland? accidentally locked rotor on one of my buffers and by the time i saw what was happening, smoked the windings. it is a special low speed buffer for aluminum commercial grade but obsolete. 6 pole run/start capacitor run 220 volt. just got the run wound and was doing the start layout and fooling with the forum.
i know what you mean mr. hippy, tooooo many distractions, especially with social media wanta - be's and selling some steel guitars, ran out of room, cannot build till i move some.

Damn y’all on a whole other level. Much of what you just said is above my head but I think I get what you're doing, just don’t know where to begin.

That’s pretty fascinating. If you’re up to it, document what you’re doing and create a write up.

Also, do you know where I could purchase a block of cherry to properly fix a fret board on an old dobro. I inherited my great grandmother dobro from my grandpa. Been in his shop for 60+ years next to his old international harvester stuff, smells of many years of gear oil, metal work and moth balls lol. The neck is broken right at the bridge/ tuning side. I just want to make it playable and done right. Not worth much money after it was broken.

[Jfart]

I apologize for my absence, been busy and still don’t have parts. Summit racing didn’t pull through. After waiting weeks for parts and I called and they back ordered them until December. Didn’t think to tell me. Spoke with Andrews and found out summit isn’t a dealer for Andrew’s. Hoping Aaron from hammer can do me a solid and order the parts as they are a have an account with Andrews but don’t normally sell parts like that. (Aaron if you’re out there, I give you my word I would never return parts like that and leave you with the mess.)

Anyway, Aaron’s brilliant brain noticed a discrepancy in the parts I ordered and gave me a heads up. My HD dealer and summit racing wen’t any help. After speaking to a Gary at Andrews I found out the paired gears and the part number scenario for gears 1,2 and 3.

1st gear’s part number number includes a pair. 2nd and 3rd gear are the same exact gears but they are reversed on the counter and main shaft. Same part number and all.

[Hippysmack]

So you are replacing 6 gears?
I've been absent for a while also and it's all your fault.... Ok, it's my hangup.
Due to this thread, I've been building an animated drawing for gear movement throughout the gear range.
So far, I'm still in neutral going into first.
I've drawn 320 gears, revised them twice and then re-drew all of them.
Due to the small drawing size and limitations, I can't match ratios exactly to real gears but I've got them close as I can.

[Jfart]

Originally Posted by Hippysmack

So you are replacing 6 gears?
I've been absent for a while also and it's all your fault.... Ok, it's my hangup.
Due to this thread, I've been building an animated drawing for gear movement throughout the gear range.
So far, I'm still in neutral going into first.
I've drawn 320 gears, revised them twice and then re-drew all of them.
Due to the small drawing size and limitations, I can't match ratios exactly to real gears but I've got them close as I can.

That was my plan but it’s not 100% set yet. Need to talk to HD and get back to Aaron Monday pending what HD says. After speaking to Aaron some more I’m thinking I can replace the main and counter 1st gears with Andrews gears.

Order a HD counter 2nd gear (33 tooth) from VPI on Amazon. This would allow me to keep the improved 2nd gear ratio that HD changed in 2000+ yr and only have to replace the counter and not the main.

I’ll get ahold of my HD dealer Monday and see if I can order counter 3rd from HD.

I believe this set up would give me Andrews longer 1st gear and the improved HD 2nd gear. Plus it doesn’t hurt to save some money, Aka spend it on a nice 2 into 1 exhaust and some other cool sheeet. Actually I might be tracking down a possible wet sumping issue.

Here’s what I don’t understand. HD told me they no longer make one of the gears from the pair of 2nd gear. After talking to Andrews 2nd and 3rd gears are the same gears but they are reversed on shafts. Example: I could use counter 2nd as main shaft main 3rd but it would be flipped over and slid onto the main shaft. HD told me they had the whole set of 3rd gear but only one of 2nd gear. All the humanity!

[Hippysmack]

Sounds like a bunch of BS to go through.

[IXL2Relax]

Originally Posted by Jfart

Example: I could use counter 2nd as main shaft main 3rd but it would be flipped over and slid onto the main shaft. HD told me they had the whole set of 3rd gear but only one of 2nd gear. All the humanity!

You have to understand that some years HD sold parts separately and others only in sets. If you carefully review the parts catalogs over the years (where the parts are compatible), you may find that you can use set numbers to your advantage or use individual part numbers to your advantage.

In many cases, the parts department only knows about the number you give them or they find ---- without any concept (or care) for the fact the solution can be had with other combinations of part numbers. They don't know the part itself - only what part number was assigned to it in a particular year. If they don't find that part number - they give up - they say, nope, not available. That might be right for that part number, but it's not the end of the story, nor the end to a solution.


IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride On The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!

[Jfart]

Sorry for the disappearance. Been busy and was waiting on parts. Got the last gear last week and rebuild the tranny. Ended up ordering the counter 2nd gear from VPI on Amazon. Got counter 3rd from my HD dealer. I got one of the old school parts guys that’s been there as long as I’ve been going to my local dealer. when he looked up what gear I wanted he said “holy shit, they don’t give that one away”. Then gave me a 20% discount in the gear, that was nice of him.

Hammer did me a solid and ordered the Andrews 1st gear set for me, much obliged.

While waiting for parts I started a wood working project in the garage and had a 3 tab roof put on. I gotta clean the garage before I instal the transmission due to a lot of dust grit. Really glad I covered the trans with towels and covered the bikes. There’s broken shingles, nails, and grit all over the inside of the garage. They cleaned up outside but forgot about their mess inside. It was due for a solid cleaning anyway.

I gotta get some washers for the detent plate. Anyone know what size they used? I might just bring my old drum to the hardware store. Also, should I use a specific type of metal for the washer? Stainless or zink coated?

If anyone wants measurements of anything specific on the trans before it’s installed speak now.

[Hippysmack]

Here's what we have in the Sportsterpedia,
5/16” crimped flat washer (one side cut across face, slid over the shaft and compressed to the groove w/ 5/16“ or 8mm flat washer behind it).
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...retainer_ideas

Maybe you can add to that list.

And I thank you for riddling me into the animation below.
I made an animated drawing of the gears and how they operate each other.
I figure it's only fitting to post it here. I got the ratios as close as possible.
I ran all the numbers for my 1200.
But with the drawing made so small, I couldn't match them completely.
You can't split a pixel into decimals. So a .85 turns into a 1 and a 1.6 turns into a 2.
But, they do work.
I originally shifted to second by slightly slowing the mainshaft (clutch pulled) since the motor wasn't attached while rolling.
Then I smacked sides of dogs together.
So I went back and left the speed as it would normally be and slid right into gear.
So it's not the fact of shifting fast or hard that matters.
It's not letting the mainshaft slow down when you pull the clutch before shifting that does matter.

Pull the clutch and don't coast before shifting and you'll be easier on the dogs.
Critic away. I may still need to tweak the speed or something.
Thanks also to IXL2Relax who helped me with the graphics presentation.

[Tomcatt]

After start-up, when you pull the clutch in to shift into (usually) first, the input shaft doesn't stop. You have enough clutch drag it keeps rotating, at least for a while. If the input shaft does stop turning you have to let the clutch out enough to get the input shaft turning so the trans can be shifted into gear.

AFTER the gears are engaged the shafts do stop rotating until the bike starts moving.