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Last Post: Graywolf
Posted On: 11 Hours Ago
Replies: 6,581
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27th May 2023
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Dazed & Confused
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Never Never Land
Posts: 3,664 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2017 Other Motorcycle Model: BMW R9T Other Motorcycle Year: 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy56
There is a fill point not a fill amount. Check the level to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring with the bike upright.
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Then he can check his tire pressures and engine oil level. All of which won't cause the problem he's having.
Missing on the adjustment can...
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2017 XL1200C in SE Wisconsin, USA
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27th May 2023
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Land Speed Record
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 713 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200T Sportster/Buell Year: 2017
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Time you backed down some pal with your smart arse answers.
When someone is having problems the best way forward is not do things how you think they should be done but how HD does, IMO.
I suspect over filling the primary will have an effect on the performance of the clutch. Can you prove me wrong?
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27th May 2023
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: On a farm
Posts: 7,467 Sportster/Buell Model: XL77.2R Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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Clutch pack come hot and "Grow", best to adjust the 1/4 turn then go toward the 3/8 than the other way to let the keeper in. 3/16 too tight and 5/16 not too slack.
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28th May 2023
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Let Freedom Ring in PA
Posts: 10,029 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200 Sportster/Buell Year: 1994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMcc87
I just got rid of the factory spring plate and did the XR1200 clutch upgrade. While I was in there, I put in the front sprocket and chain off an 883.
After I put it back together, the clutch would engage into 1st but as soon as I lay into the throttle a bit, the bike revs and the bike goes no where. I’ve put in brand new steels, frictions, I triple checked the judder setup, and followed clutch adjustments in the Clymer manual. But the damn thing keeps slipping
Any ideas on what it could be?
P.S- I put the bike back to stock (with worn clutch discs that were ok last year) and same results.
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The clutch adjustment is critical - and many have had difficulty getting it just right, especially if it's the first time you've done it.
Here's the Sportsterpedia section on Adjusting the Clutch Release:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ment_-_why_how
And here's the section about the Judder Plate:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...g_xr1200_parts
The adjustment of the Clutch Release is the same whether using the stock or Judder configuration. But you need to get it right - it needs to be centered in the available movement to be sure it is fully released at one extreme and fully engaged at the other extreme.
Consider that the Clutch Diaphragm Spring was changed on the 2004-later models to 'tune' the amount of pressure needed to operate the clutch lever - to make it easier to pull.
Since you have now increased the torque between the clutch plates (using the 34T drive sprocket), you may need to install a heavier diaphragm spring to clamp the plates together harder.
IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride On The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!
__________________
### The ride is more enjoyable to nowhere in particular! ###
Last edited by IXL2Relax; 28th May 2023 at 04:40..
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28th May 2023
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 4,608 Sportster/Buell Model: 1250 Sportster/Buell Year: 1991
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Doesn't the OP have a 1200 he geared lower with the 883 primary chain ratio? I would think the 1200 diaphragm spring sufficient.
They used the same spring for 1200 and 883 up until 2004.
IDK, I think I would change chain sprockets or belt pulleys first.
John
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28th May 2023
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Biker
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 12 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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I did upgrade the diaphragm spring, while I was in there.
Thanks all for the input. I’ve played with the adjustment screw quite a bit but always stuck to the manual. I’ll try adjusting a bit tighter to see if that helps.
Might also swap the pressure plate. Wondering if somehow that is out of spec? I rode the bike really hard last year, so who knows that failed.
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28th May 2023
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Dazed & Confused
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Never Never Land
Posts: 3,664 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2017 Other Motorcycle Model: BMW R9T Other Motorcycle Year: 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMcc87
Thanks all for the input. I’ve played with the adjustment screw quite a bit but always stuck to the manual. I’ll try adjusting a bit tighter to see if that helps.
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If you have slippage because of your "stuck to the manual" adjusting it's because the adjuster screw is turned CCW too far.
Turning the screw CW creates freeplay. Turning it CCW reduces freeplay and if turned too far will create slippage.
The "feel" while adjusting the screw is "vague" at best. If you grab the release arm where the clutch cable attaches you can feel clearance there and it has a very distinct feel, unlike the vague feel you get turning the screw. Try it as you adjust the screw.
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28th May 2023
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 4,608 Sportster/Buell Model: 1250 Sportster/Buell Year: 1991
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I agree with TC, maybe try turning the screw in 1/8 or 1/4 at a time and then see if your slipping stops. You can also check the release arm while you are doing it. I think your adjuster screw is too far turned CCW still.
John
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28th May 2023
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Biker
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 12 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Question: is it possible that the pressure plate was damaged when I used the clutch compression tool? I had it pretty snug to get the rings out without damaging the fingers on the hub.
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29th May 2023
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Let Freedom Ring in PA
Posts: 10,029 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200 Sportster/Buell Year: 1994
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It's unlikely the Pressure Plate was damaged. Did it crack? Did the Diaphragm Spring crack? If you remove & check the Pressure Plate, it should sit flat on a flat surface (not warped).
Usually, after the first few attempts, a reasonable adjustment can be made on the clutch release. I sense there may be something else at play here...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMcc87
After I put it back together, the clutch would engage into 1st but as soon as I lay into the throttle a bit, the bike revs and the bike goes no where.
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Clarify what you meant -
Did the bike move in 1st gear, then when riding it would slip?
Did you mean the bike cannot move at all under any power because the clutch slips even in 1st gear?
Key OFF - With clutch engaged & trans in 1st gear, can you push the bike back & forth?
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
BASICS:
In the stock XL design, there are 8 friction plates, 6 steel plates & one spring plate.
In the Judder configuration, it REQUIRES 8 friction plates and 8 steel plates PLUS the Judder parts. That's two more steel plates.
Be sure you have placed the parts into the basket correctly:
# Judder parts go into the basket 1st - be sure the judder seat plate is in place before the spring plate - and be sure the spring plate is angled (beveled) the right direction (the inside diameter should sit closer to the Hub Base and the outside diameter should sit closer to the Pressure Plate)
# then a steel plate, then a friction plate <--- repleated 8 times
### Be sure the last plate in is a friction plate
# then the pressure plate
IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride On The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!
Last edited by IXL2Relax; 29th May 2023 at 04:06..
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