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Rubber Mount Sportster Motorcycle Talk (2004-2006) This area is to discuss issues, problems and anything else unique to the 2004 and above Sportster motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 27th May 2023
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy56 View Post
There is a fill point not a fill amount. Check the level to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring with the bike upright.
Then he can check his tire pressures and engine oil level. All of which won't cause the problem he's having.
Missing on the adjustment can...
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  #12  
Old 27th May 2023
Andy56 Andy56 is offline
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Time you backed down some pal with your smart arse answers.

When someone is having problems the best way forward is not do things how you think they should be done but how HD does, IMO.

I suspect over filling the primary will have an effect on the performance of the clutch. Can you prove me wrong?
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  #13  
Old 27th May 2023
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rejeanprimeau rejeanprimeau is offline
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Clutch pack come hot and "Grow", best to adjust the 1/4 turn then go toward the 3/8 than the other way to let the keeper in. 3/16 too tight and 5/16 not too slack.
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  #14  
Old 28th May 2023
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMcc87 View Post
I just got rid of the factory spring plate and did the XR1200 clutch upgrade. While I was in there, I put in the front sprocket and chain off an 883.

After I put it back together, the clutch would engage into 1st but as soon as I lay into the throttle a bit, the bike revs and the bike goes no where. I’ve put in brand new steels, frictions, I triple checked the judder setup, and followed clutch adjustments in the Clymer manual. But the damn thing keeps slipping

Any ideas on what it could be?

P.S- I put the bike back to stock (with worn clutch discs that were ok last year) and same results.
The clutch adjustment is critical - and many have had difficulty getting it just right, especially if it's the first time you've done it.

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on Adjusting the Clutch Release:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ment_-_why_how

And here's the section about the Judder Plate:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...g_xr1200_parts

The adjustment of the Clutch Release is the same whether using the stock or Judder configuration. But you need to get it right - it needs to be centered in the available movement to be sure it is fully released at one extreme and fully engaged at the other extreme.


Consider that the Clutch Diaphragm Spring was changed on the 2004-later models to 'tune' the amount of pressure needed to operate the clutch lever - to make it easier to pull.

Since you have now increased the torque between the clutch plates (using the 34T drive sprocket), you may need to install a heavier diaphragm spring to clamp the plates together harder.


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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 28th May 2023 at 04:40..
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  #15  
Old 28th May 2023
John Harper John Harper is offline
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Doesn't the OP have a 1200 he geared lower with the 883 primary chain ratio? I would think the 1200 diaphragm spring sufficient.

They used the same spring for 1200 and 883 up until 2004.

IDK, I think I would change chain sprockets or belt pulleys first.

John
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  #16  
Old 28th May 2023
JoeMcc87 JoeMcc87 is offline
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I did upgrade the diaphragm spring, while I was in there.

Thanks all for the input. I’ve played with the adjustment screw quite a bit but always stuck to the manual. I’ll try adjusting a bit tighter to see if that helps.

Might also swap the pressure plate. Wondering if somehow that is out of spec? I rode the bike really hard last year, so who knows that failed.
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  #17  
Old 28th May 2023
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMcc87 View Post
Thanks all for the input. I’ve played with the adjustment screw quite a bit but always stuck to the manual. I’ll try adjusting a bit tighter to see if that helps.
If you have slippage because of your "stuck to the manual" adjusting it's because the adjuster screw is turned CCW too far.
Turning the screw CW creates freeplay. Turning it CCW reduces freeplay and if turned too far will create slippage.

The "feel" while adjusting the screw is "vague" at best. If you grab the release arm where the clutch cable attaches you can feel clearance there and it has a very distinct feel, unlike the vague feel you get turning the screw. Try it as you adjust the screw.
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Old 28th May 2023
John Harper John Harper is offline
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I agree with TC, maybe try turning the screw in 1/8 or 1/4 at a time and then see if your slipping stops. You can also check the release arm while you are doing it. I think your adjuster screw is too far turned CCW still.

John
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  #19  
Old 28th May 2023
JoeMcc87 JoeMcc87 is offline
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Question: is it possible that the pressure plate was damaged when I used the clutch compression tool? I had it pretty snug to get the rings out without damaging the fingers on the hub.
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  #20  
Old 29th May 2023
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It's unlikely the Pressure Plate was damaged. Did it crack? Did the Diaphragm Spring crack? If you remove & check the Pressure Plate, it should sit flat on a flat surface (not warped).

Usually, after the first few attempts, a reasonable adjustment can be made on the clutch release. I sense there may be something else at play here...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMcc87 View Post
After I put it back together, the clutch would engage into 1st but as soon as I lay into the throttle a bit, the bike revs and the bike goes no where.
Clarify what you meant -
Did the bike move in 1st gear, then when riding it would slip?
Did you mean the bike cannot move at all under any power because the clutch slips even in 1st gear?

Key OFF - With clutch engaged & trans in 1st gear, can you push the bike back & forth?

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

BASICS:

In the stock XL design, there are 8 friction plates, 6 steel plates & one spring plate.

In the Judder configuration, it REQUIRES 8 friction plates and 8 steel plates PLUS the Judder parts. That's two more steel plates.

Be sure you have placed the parts into the basket correctly:

# Judder parts go into the basket 1st - be sure the judder seat plate is in place before the spring plate - and be sure the spring plate is angled (beveled) the right direction (the inside diameter should sit closer to the Hub Base and the outside diameter should sit closer to the Pressure Plate)

# then a steel plate, then a friction plate <--- repleated 8 times
### Be sure the last plate in is a friction plate

# then the pressure plate


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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 29th May 2023 at 04:06..
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