Ironhead 1977 XCLH IronHead Nightmare

[TheBlueDuck]

Hey there guys , I have been lurking through these forums for a few years now. And many of the threads here will contain things I will mention I believe some have helped me and more gremlins have appeared. Ok so here is the story.

I have a 1977 XCLH Iron Head that I inherited from my late father. He owned the bike since 1984. The bike has had a long and crazy life. Before I get into what I've done with the bike I figure I can use this as an intro to myself aswell. I have worked on cars professionally nearly my whole career for 13 years. Mainly in new car dealers for Mercedes Benz and GM. Currently I work on heavy equipment. This is my first time working on a bike

So shortly after my father passed(3 years ago) I got the bike running fairly well just by adjusting the points to spec at .018 , did not mess with the timing. Ever since then I would winterize it and run it at least once a week during warmer months. Note I have never ridden it on the road just putt it around the yard here and there. So this month I decided I would put it on the road and begin riding. So I have rebuilt the carb which is an S + S Super B. Had it running good after that but not great. So I decided to take a look at the points again and found that a spring for the mechanical advance weight is broken. Picked up a kit from my local bike shop in Long Island NY, that contained the weight assembly and a new set of points.
So after using the "shadow dog" youtube tutorial. I had set the static timing and set the points. This was the beginning of my nightmare. I had a real hard time adjusting the points as they would not set even on each side of the cam , could not get the bike to start. So I tried adjusting (light tap of hammer) the shaft that the cam slides over and still the same issue. Took it all apart and I found that the new weight assembly was not in my opinion not seating correctly. So I stole the springs off the new weight and threw it on the old one. I also used my old points as the new points would change drastically after tightening the hold down screw. So after all that I got the bike running perfect , better than it ever has.

So I get my permit , get the bike registered , getting ready and set up to take it out. I try to start it and it begins to run on one cylinder and then not at all. A bit of info I let out is I gapped the plugs to .025 because it seemed to like that best. So I was pulling my hair out sick and tired of these damn points , adjusted them again( to check) and damaged the starter trying to get it going. And nothing.
So I have noticed the praise for the Ultima Ignition kit and decided to try it specifically the 53-660 I have used a link that others have posted. I follow the instructions to a T. Mount new coil with power and white to middle post , pink on left post and blue on right post. Set the static timing with front cylinder at TDC (using vertical mark through inspection plug) , gapped my plugs to.040 as I see thats what EI likes from what I've read here. Set it to single fire on the module and nothing. At this point I am kicking the bike since I've damaged the starter. I was getting back fire through the carb and it felt like the kicker was gonna throw me over. So I messed around with the timing at different intervals and nothing. I tried different plug gaps, nothing. I set it back to where I originally timed it and nothing , tried some of the different curves specifically one and two and nothing. I am getting spark, as I would get a back fire through the carb and I also used my spark tester. So I am at my wits end about to bring it to my local shop. I know have fuel , and I would put some directly down the carb just to see what would happen in case the float needle was stuck. Not sure what I've missed (aside from valve adjustment but doubt its that and I have compression).

Any help would be appreciated , sorry for the long post just wanted to include everything I've done.

[JB in NC]

Super easy answer:
On the '77, the vertical line on the flywheel is the ADVANCE timing mark for the front cylinder. To static time these electronic ignitions, you need to use the front cylinder TDC mark, which on your flywheel is a dot. (You can check to verify by feeling the location of the front piston through the spark plug hole.) So, you are 40 degrees or so too far advanced the way you are doing it.

Jim

[TheBlueDuck]

Thanks for the reply, will give it a shot tomorrow.

[1Scooter]

I know of another problem yer having. Ultima ignition systems come from the factory set at 3 Dead Revs. HUH? Engine turns over 3 times before it fires. For a CK kicker only, ya gotta reprogram the Ultima to 0 Dead Revs.

[Racepres]

IMO...Time it like JB says...and put Quality Points and Condenser... proven, tested Working condenser
My Bone Stock, '77 XLCH will do 13.00 at an even Ton!!!
Certainly Not with a "B"...I really like the Bendix!!!

[needspeed]

Originally Posted by Racepres

...Time it like JB says...and put Quality Points and Condenser...

These 2 bits of advice don't belong together. One system times at front cylinder TDC and the other (points) times at the front cylinder advance mark.

[Racepres]

Originally Posted by needspeed

These 2 bits of advice don't belong together. One system times at front cylinder TDC and the other (points) times at the front cylinder advance mark.

That is True ...since JB is specifically talking EI
I am saying his assertion on the Location/function of the Timing Marks is Spot on tho..
So I will ammend by stating... Know "where" and "What your Timing marks are, and Time Your System, accordingly..
I still like Points... but decent Condensers are getting Scarce..

One more thing... There are about a Jillion stock EI boxes floating around out there... No Dead Revs, easy to Time, reasonable Rev Limiter, and finally... fairly aggressive Advance Curve... I have never figured out what is Not to Like???

[JB in NC]

Originally Posted by Racepres

That is True ...since JB is specifically talking EI
I am saying his assertion on the Location/function of the Timing Marks is Spot on tho..
So I will ammend by stating... Know "where" and "What your Timing marks are, and Time Your System, accordingly..
I still like Points... but decent Condensers are getting Scarce..

One more thing... There are about a Jillion stock EI boxes floating around out there... No Dead Revs, easy to Time, reasonable Rev Limiter, and finally... fairly aggressive Advance Curve... I have never figured out what is Not to Like???

I believe stock H-D boxes DO have dead revs programmed. My '80 FL box did. You could kick start it if you could kick fast enough, but not a "first kick" deal.

Jim

[Racepres]

Originally Posted by JB in NC

I believe stock H-D boxes DO have dead revs programmed. My '80 FL box did. You could kick start it if you could kick fast enough, but not a "first kick" deal.

Jim

Huh... Mine don't... Wonder what deal was there..
hell...on the ones I use, simply switching Key On/Off causes Discharge (spark)!!
Rolling over...sparks reliably on the Mark..

I must admit... I diligently seek out Older, Sportster Specific, Boxes... They make my Old Shovel, and the Eldest sons '75IH, work extremely well..

Remembering back...as Stock, My '82 had zero dead revs also... Wonder what the deal was???
But... that was a long time ago...I may have already switched to a Sportster "box"...and...At that time, it would have been for an Ironhead..
Maybe the Difference right there.... Maybe.

[Iron Mike]

I believe it’s there save your starter.