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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #41  
Old 5 Days Ago
Four Speed Four Speed is offline
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Golan are excellent but the screen is 100 microns and that still allows fine particles of rust etc to reach the carb. Ask me how I know.
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  #42  
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Ok. Got back to it today. Pulled the float bowl off the carb, then removed and inspected the jets. They were all clean, but I ran carb cleaner and air through them again anyway. I also shot carb cleaner followed by air down all the passages.

I removed the mixture screw and repeated the carb cleaner/air treatment going both ways through the passage. The spring came out with the screw, the washer came out when I blew air down the passage from the throat side and the o ring stayed in. I did put the washer back in when I reassembled the screw and packing. I set the screw to 2 1/2 turns out.

I checked the float bowl level setting and it was good.

Checking the throttle plate, I loosened the screws so the plate had some wiggle room. I then unscrewed the idle speed screw so there was no stop, let it fully close then tightened the screws again. Then I screwed the idle speed screw back in until it just covered the transfer ports.

I then pulled the tank and removed the petcock. The screen looked perfectly clean, to my naked eye anyway. I put about 2 cups of gas in the tank and shook the tank around with my thumb over the petcock hole and the cap on. I poured the gas back into the mower can through a funnel with a couple of white paper shop towels in it. They were pure as the driven snow, no chunks of anything that I could see.

I put everything back together. I did not install a fuel filter. Not ruling it out, just not sure about using the little plastic (Outlaw high performance 40-70 microns for snow mobile/ SeaDoo etc...) one I have and also wasn't keen on looping fuel line all over, but if it turns out I have to, I have to. We'll see.

I bought a brand new gas can and fresh gas. Spent 10 min trying to get gas out of the can. When did pouring gas out of a can get complicated?

Pulled the enrichener out and started the bike. Chugged a couple times and died. Tried to start it again and it wouldn't stay running more than a couple revolutions. I turned the idle speed screw in about a turn and a half and tried again. Same thing, but this time as an added bonus it coughed out of the carb. Tried pushing the enrichener in a little, same thing.

I removed the air cleaner and pushed the slide up, it still made vacuum noises as it dropped. As long as I had the AC off I twisted the throttle and checked the accelerator pump, it shot a pretty good stream of gas and was aimed correctly.

Rolled it back in the garage.

Kind of at a loss now. At least before it was running.
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  #43  
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O-ring isn't pinched / distorted?
Should it have come out with the washer or is it squished in there?

Enrichener adds gas to the mix unless you're way lean it ought to run with it out.
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  #44  
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Well, it needs fuel, air, and spark to run. Does it still have the VOES? (vacuum operated electric switch) It controls idle and rpm's under load.
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  #45  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
O-ring isn't pinched / distorted?
Should it have come out with the washer or is it squished in there?

Enrichener adds gas to the mix unless you're way lean it ought to run with it out.
I don't think it's pinched. It looked ok. What I could see while looking up the hole with a magnifying glass and flashlight anyway. I know when I rebuilt the carb, the original o ring wouldn't come out, I had to pull it with a pick.

I thought it was lean because it wouldn't run with it in? That was the original issue.
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  #46  
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Did you check the float level?
It may be low.
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  #47  
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It still seems like an air leak to me as IXL2Relax mentioned.
(assuming you're sure about the float level as you mentioned)
Did you leave the intake to head bolts loose and install the carb first before tightening them all down?
What color are the plugs?

Try increasing the idle speed screw just to get her to idle for diagnostics?
How's the timing?

Last edited by Hippysmack; 6 Hours Ago at 01:55..
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  #48  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Did you check the float level?
It may be low.
I checked it with a plastic protractor we had from back when my kids were in grade school. The float seam was level at just under 20deg (by eyeballing through the protractor) and the height was at the top of the range, 0.450 or so measured with the depth gauge on my dial caliper.
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  #49  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toejam503 View Post
Well, it needs fuel, air, and spark to run. Does it still have the VOES? (vacuum operated electric switch) It controls idle and rpm's under load.
It does.
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  #50  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
It still seems like an air leak to me as IXL2Relax mentioned.
(assuming you're sure about the float level as you mentioned)
Did you leave the intake to head bolts loose and install the carb first before tightening them all down?
Yes, the very first time when I replaced the intake seals. Since then I've just been pulling the carb and sticking it back on there without messing with the intake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
What color are the plugs?
Haven't pulled the plugs yet, I'll do that next.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Try increasing the idle speed screw just to get her to idle for diagnostics?
I did, but probably not enough. I can get it to stay alive by revving it right before it dies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
How's the timing?
Other than me not being able to push in the enrichener all the way, the bike was running good before I pulled and cleaned the carb. I have no reason to think it's shifted.
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