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Tags
alarm, fuse, ignition, key fob, no start, relay, tssm, wont start

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  #21  
Old 10th June 2018
Jollly Rogers Jollly Rogers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspasser View Post
things i have done rto resolve this issue:
1-charged battery.
2- had battery load tested and its fine
3- Replaced Starter Relay
BTW (battery connections are pristine)
4-Replaced Key Fob battery in case it was related to security system

and excuse me the fuse was 2nd one down on the left side of the fuse block
GASPASSER... you have restated the same things done several times. You have NOT done the things Sportsterdoc requested in post 14.
READ 14 and get us those readings please!!!
Joe
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  #22  
Old 10th June 2018
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I'll check back this afternoon and a couple times on Monday, then I expect to be off-line for 10 days. Hope this is solved. If not the security system, it is likely a voltage issue:

1. Poor connections (4 battery cable ends)
2. Something is drawing down battery, such as failed regulator. OP, there are tests for this, but they involve voltage readings. Once you report the original a, b & c, hopefully we can start narrowing it down...or suggest different tests.
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  #23  
Old 10th June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspasser View Post
BTW (battery connections are pristine)
OK - but have you serviced the other ends of the battery cables - Those ends still need to be cleaned & the battery ground wire (and the Powertrain Ground Point) needs to have copper-based anti-seize applied to assure the ground is 100% solid (for now & later)...

You seem to be missing part of what needs to be done - Or you did it but didn't say what it looked like or what you did?

Did you find the Battery Ground point? Did you find the Powertrain Ground Point? Did you service both of those?

Take the four basic meter readings on the battery & report back the EXACT meter readings...

Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspasser View Post
4-Replaced Key Fob battery in case it was related to security system
The security system is part of the Turn Signal Module - The FOB is only a small part of that system...


Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspasser View Post
and excuse me the fuse was 2nd one down on the left side of the fuse block
That sounds like the BATTERY fuse - and as already mentioned, pulling & replacing that fuse may simply be giving a reset signal to the TSM...

REALLY - If you do the things that are asked, provide the exact information asked for (then make any additional comments that seem relevant), we can walk you thru a series of tests that WILL find the problem...

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  #24  
Old 23rd June 2018
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ok....so its been a few weeks....the battery checked out ok. all ground wires that i can locate are ok and tight...no corrosion. the bike is garaged and hasnt seen rain in a quite a while. so i go out to start checking all ground points and the bike has been on the tender and its cranking slow....voltage says 9.3-9.4 at rest key on. which is not normal. clearly theres a current drain somewhere and the fuse pull still works to start the bike if the battery has the juice. can it be the key switch or security module (my bike came with it from the factory).
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  #25  
Old 23rd June 2018
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From post 23:

1. Poor connections (4 battery cable ends)

2. Something is drawing down battery, such as failed regulator. OP, there are tests for this, but they involve voltage readings. Once you report the original a, b & c, hopefully we can start narrowing it down...or suggest different tests.

From post 2:
Battery voltage measured with
a. key off?
b. key on?
c. while pressing start button?

What testing was done for battery to "check out OK"?

What effect on battery voltage if regulator is unplugged?

Reporting 9.3 to 9.4 key-on gives no reference to key-off voltage or if it was fully charge (12.8) first.
Nor does it inform us if the key was on for a long time with headlight drawing down voltage.

See post 14.
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  #26  
Old 23rd June 2018
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ok...since i posted this last post i have worked more on the bike......replaced the battery just in case. NOW i am sure the prob is in the TSSM and has nothing to do with ground wires and such. i played with the fob got alarm system to arm then not really disarm. and then it quit all together. NOW with a fully charged brand new battery and using the pull fuse trick to start my bike that no longer works. no turn signals, no start...no click...no nothing. it has to be a bad TSSM. i tried the reset procedure and it wont do a thing. the reason my battery got drawn down was because the alarm system came on a few times after me trying to start the bike etc and had the signal lights in the bright setting on even when bike was off. in fact it melted the inside of my lens covers a bit on the front turn sigs. so you have any expertise, part numbers, procedure to swap from TSSM to just TSM i would appreciate that help
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  #27  
Old 23rd June 2018
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You must have a short from either a wire that touch the frame or a metal part or one from two wire (interconnection). Frying come from short., When you remove the fuse then the shorted wire has no current, then reinserting the fuse, the breaker come off then resupply the juice to the bike.
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  #28  
Old 23rd June 2018
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so at what point did you put the crack pipe down???
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  #29  
Old 24th June 2018
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Without answers to questions in post 26, I cannot be of any help and directing you to the TSM swap thread may not be doing you any favors.
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  #30  
Old 24th June 2018
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seriously???
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