Hammer 1275 clang noise, slow oil feed, kinked crankcase vent.

[Hippysmack]

Looks good.
The lifters won't bleed until after the rocker box goes on.
So install the rocker box, then wait 15-20 mins or so before starting the second cyl.
TDC compression stroke on each box install.

Normally I'd just cut the ring off the gasket with a Dremil instead of the gasket itself.
I'd make sure there isn't any metal buildup around that section you cut off that may alter torque.

[BestCoastXL]

Originally Posted by Hippysmack

Normally I'd just cut the ring off the gasket with a Dremil instead of the gasket itself.
I'd make sure there isn't any metal buildup around that section you cut off that may alter torque.

So the Rocker boxes won't go back on until I pick up the rocker locker kit from the shipper. I'll be putting up some photos of that evolution as well.

With the gasket, I used a hefty set of Linesman Pliers and cut the ring off so there's very little distortion if any in the gasket.
It's the multi-later steel gasket that Cometic makes.
http://www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallk...l#InstallHeads

Would you say if the three layers sit flush together that I still need to inspect the gasket?

I cut it as close to the ring as possible but I don't think it comes under the head where I lopped it off

[BestCoastXL]

On Hammerperf they say:
"◦If using a stock CV40 on a 1250 or 1275, a good starting point is a 185 main and 45 pilot. Also access theidle mixture screw (underneath a plug that's on the underside of the carb near the outlet) and set it to 3 turns out from lightly seated. "

CV Performance says this though:
"The air cleaner assembly must be installed prior to starting the engine, not only to hold the carburetor in place but to prevent having the carburetor backfire in toward you while tuning. Start the engine as normal and bring up to operating temperature prior to fine tuning. Let the bike idle for no more than 5 minutes.

With the engine warmed up and at idle you may now fine tune the idle mixture screw for optimal performance. Acquaint yourself with the adjustment screw location at the bottom rear of the carburetor prior to running the engine. You will need a small screw driver for adjusting the screw unless an EZ-Just has been installed. With the engine idling slow (no more than 900 rpm), turn the screw inward (clockwise) SLOWLY until the engine starts to stumble. You are working with the screw upside down so check to make sure you are turning the screw clockwise or inward. Note that not all engines will stumble or have an RPM change that is noticable when twisting in the mixture screw. This can be due to the idle jet being too large, installed cams, or ignition systems such as those on Twin Cam 88's. If unable to find the low adjustment point where the idle slows, simply set the screw at 1-3/4 turns out and proceed to the next step.

If the engine will not idle on its own during this procedure, adjust the idle set screw on the throttle side of the carburetor until it idles correctly. Now turn the mixture screw outwards (counter-clockwise) until the engine begins to run smoothly, then add 1/8 of a turn. Maintain proper idle speed and repeat the adjustment each time you adjust the idle speed. Blip the throttle a couple of times and observe the results. If the engine responds quickly with a smooth blast and no backfiring through the carburetor, you have your idle mixture right. If a hesitation occurs then adjust the idle mixture screw out another 1/8 turn. Normally, the mixture screw should only require 2 to 3 turns out from gently seated. Anything above 4 turns indicates the pilot jet is too small."

I have it set with a screwdriver that has 4 sides on the handle and I use that as a reference for counting.
1 and 3/4 turns is 7 x 1/4 turns so I count it out as I'm doing it from very lightly seated (it's said you can damage the needle if you ham fist it.

Does this sound right? I had the bike idling decently with 1 and 3/4 turns and Hammer says 3 turns with rejetting the carb to their recommendations. I'm good doing either, just want to get it right. Split the difference? I know you can't really listen for a specific noise or anything.

[Tomcatt]

Originally Posted by BestCoastXL

Does this sound right?

Put in a 45 pilot, a 185 main, adjust the idle mixture screw so it's 3 turns out and tune from there after you've done your short rides part of the break-in.

[John Harper]

Originally Posted by Tomcatt

What works well is using stainless steel nuts. Carbon steel studs with stainless nuts don't rust together. You still want to use anti-seize.

That’s good information, thank you.

John

[wedge]

Originally Posted by BestCoastXL

On Hammerperf they say:
"◦If using a stock CV40 on a 1250 or 1275, a good starting point is a 185 main and 45 pilot. Also access theidle mixture screw (underneath a plug that's on the underside of the carb near the outlet) and set it to 3 turns out from lightly seated. "

CV Performance says this though:
"The air cleaner assembly must be installed prior to starting the engine, not only to hold the carburetor in place but to prevent having the carburetor backfire in toward you while tuning. Start the engine as normal and bring up to operating temperature prior to fine tuning. Let the bike idle for no more than 5 minutes.

With the engine warmed up and at idle you may now fine tune the idle mixture screw for optimal performance. Acquaint yourself with the adjustment screw location at the bottom rear of the carburetor prior to running the engine. You will need a small screw driver for adjusting the screw unless an EZ-Just has been installed. With the engine idling slow (no more than 900 rpm), turn the screw inward (clockwise) SLOWLY until the engine starts to stumble. You are working with the screw upside down so check to make sure you are turning the screw clockwise or inward. Note that not all engines will stumble or have an RPM change that is noticable when twisting in the mixture screw. This can be due to the idle jet being too large, installed cams, or ignition systems such as those on Twin Cam 88's. If unable to find the low adjustment point where the idle slows, simply set the screw at 1-3/4 turns out and proceed to the next step.

If the engine will not idle on its own during this procedure, adjust the idle set screw on the throttle side of the carburetor until it idles correctly. Now turn the mixture screw outwards (counter-clockwise) until the engine begins to run smoothly, then add 1/8 of a turn. Maintain proper idle speed and repeat the adjustment each time you adjust the idle speed. Blip the throttle a couple of times and observe the results. If the engine responds quickly with a smooth blast and no backfiring through the carburetor, you have your idle mixture right. If a hesitation occurs then adjust the idle mixture screw out another 1/8 turn. Normally, the mixture screw should only require 2 to 3 turns out from gently seated. Anything above 4 turns indicates the pilot jet is too small."

I have it set with a screwdriver that has 4 sides on the handle and I use that as a reference for counting.
1 and 3/4 turns is 7 x 1/4 turns so I count it out as I'm doing it from very lightly seated (it's said you can damage the needle if you ham fist it.

Does this sound right? I had the bike idling decently with 1 and 3/4 turns and Hammer says 3 turns with rejetting the carb to their recommendations. I'm good doing either, just want to get it right. Split the difference? I know you can't really listen for a specific noise or anything.

You definitely can listen for a specific noise.

It's called the idle drop method, and you listen for the idle speed as you tune the mixture screw. Sometimes you need to lower the idle speed screw to get it idling slow enough that you can hear the change as you turn the mixture screw. Loud pipes won't even stop you from hearing what you need to hear.

Basiclly, you turn the screw in one direction until the bike starts to run slower, then you turn it back to where it starts to run slower at the other extreme. You want to leave it in the center of the two fall off's. Then return the idle speed with the throttle stop screw to the normal just over 1000 RPM.
Then test ride it and feel the transition. If it has a lag in the transition, you can add more fuel with the mixture screw by up to a quarter turn to fix the stumble.

After that you need to read the plugs to make sure you chose the correct jets.

I explained in detail how to read plugs the way we do at circle tracks to determine where we are on jetting within a few laps on new plugs. I learned from one of the top tuners in the country Brad Urban. It is called "Plug Reading 101" and is a sticky but for some reason I can not find it now to give you a link. Found it... http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=920271

[BestCoastXL]

The oil pressure gauge came in the mail and was a quick and simple install with a 3/16 ball end long hex 3/8 drive and a 7/16 wrench. A little thread sealant (just a dab) and bob's truly your uncle.

It snugged up really nicely on top of the filter that had a 1/8 NPT plug on the top so now I can drive myself bonkers watching oil pressure instead of the road

[Tomcatt]

Originally Posted by BestCoastXL

Does this sound right? I had the bike idling decently with 1 and 3/4 turns and Hammer says 3 turns with rejetting the carb to their recommendations. I'm good doing either, just want to get it right.

Ok, while you're installing all the pipe thread fittings figure out where one will fit in your intake manifold. 1/8 tapered pipe that will accept an 1/8" ID hose is fine.

You want to be able to hook up a vacuum or MAP gauge. It will make a lot of your idle and part throttle carb tuning an objective instead of subjective process. Assuming you have a tach...

[rocketmangb]

Use the carb port for the petcock