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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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View Poll Results: Belt Or chain conversion?
Keep the belt 119 78.29%
Get the chain 33 21.71%
Voters: 152. You may not vote on this poll

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  #71  
Old 25th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainman View Post
I am running (Maxima) chain wax and it stays on the chain pretty well. All of my other bikes

have had chains so why not this one?





+1. I too used maxima chain wax for years. Tried motul lube once on a zx6r, what a mess.


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  #72  
Old 28th October 2019
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During a discussion on the CB1100 forum, I referenced this thread re belt longivity and relative ease to change (at least for Paul!)

A CB1100 rider from Germany commented:
During my ride across the USA I met a Buell with a broken belt at a campground near the tail of the dragon and a Harley with a broken belt at a campground in Virginia.


My reply was
How many miles on the belt?
Quality belt or eBay specials?
Belt adjusted too tight?
Belt properly aligned?
Belt guard and pulley cover used or removed?

As I am getting interested in helicopters, I came across this, which emphasizes the need to check belts carefully during pre-flight inspections.

It is a good read and maybe encourage more pre-ride H-D belt checks

https://www.atsb.gov.au/media/4120236/ai..._final.pdf
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  #73  
Old 29th October 2019
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Hi Doc.

I think the worst thing for these belts is the tight adjustment that you mentioned here. The factory has us using a 10# pressure gauge to set tension. I stopped using that when my first belt broke on the Pig at 20,000 miles. I have over 70,000 now and still on the same belt, plus the other bike is at about 40,000 with original belt.

I use the 5/8" factory play, but as free play rather than under tension. I have had my belt so loose it flapped like a sheet on the clothesline on a windy day and never had a problem. 5/8" free play is a bit tighter, the flapping is way less, and the belt likes it just fine.
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  #74  
Old 29th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Hi Doc.

I think the worst thing for these belts is the tight adjustment that you mentioned here....
Yep
When I operated an industrial electric motor repair shop we were an authorized warranty repair for many major brands and received instruction on failure analysis.

I've seen 2 1/8" motor shafts broken almost as clean as if cut on a lathe, from over-tightened V belts...not under warranty.

That size shaft (NEMA 324T frame) would be typical for a 40 HP motor.
Over tightening would cause enough shaft deflection to eventually separate the shaft at the multi-belt sheave, leaving a small protrudion at the center.
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  #75  
Old 29th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Yep
When I operated an industrial electric motor repair shop we were an authorized warranty repair for many major brands and received instruction on failure analysis.

I've seen 2 1/8" motor shafts broken almost as clean as if cut on a lathe, from over-tightened V belts...not under warranty.

That size shaft (NEMA 324T frame) would be typical for a 40 HP motor.
Over tightening would cause enough shaft deflection to eventually separate the shaft at the multi-belt sheave, leaving a small protrudion at the center.
I have a great mental picture of that. Sure, constant stress in one place on the shaft.

Oh, regarding the bike... Before I decided to loosen the belt I was feeling strange things in hard cornering (I replaced rubber mounts but didn't see where they would have been the cause of any problems with the swing arm). I finally figured out that the tight belt was lifting the rear under acceleration. (Maybe it lowered since I couldn't actually see it, but all butt sensors read it as lift). Anyway, with the looser belt, the rear feels rock solid.

As I type and think about this, possibly a sagging rubber mount could do something similar in feel by changing the alignment of the front sprocket with the swing arm pivot.

I felt the improvement in conjunction with belt tension though.
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  #76  
Old 29th October 2019
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This time of the year roads were chipped and patched on mountains...

not an easy time for belt driven bikes

the little rocks are sticky due to the bitumen and when they touch occasionally the inside of the belt remain glued and then chewed by the sprocket...

you have to inspect thoroughly the belt at every ride...
in a couple of week i removed two little rocks squeezed between the teeth of the rear sprocket...

i love belt driven bikes... IMO with a proper belt guard things could improve a lot...

some friends have BMWs belt driven... it's nearly impossible a rock could get chewed on them because have belt guard that protect wholly the belt either from the left side than from the right side...
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  #77  
Old 5th November 2019
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Well I had a Dyna twin cam, had the belt from new & never broke it, but I was riding the bike 1,100 KM to drag race in screaming eagle Harley, that was the away racing the home track was 10km away. was worried if I broke a belt big job to replace on the Dyna .
now moved up to the real thing! 2003 XLH 88" still on original belt & 16,000km with the 88" motor still never broke the belt, I know not riding hard enough, but am enjoying every minute!! reason I'll keep the belt is less vibration, I can also cary spare belt if on a longer run.
if you think you can't ride on dirt or over rocks with belt drive. check out youtube Million Dollar Bogan riding a Harley in Outback Australia ( he put a rock through the sump on a new road king, put a 2" inch hole in it ( the sump ) oil everywhere, but belt not broken yet. I'm not a friend of his & don't know him at all, just mentioning this. but like others have said a rock between belt and pulls teeth and it chews up belt & pulls gears.
I'll stick with belt.
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  #78  
Old 5th November 2019
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One of the main reasons I don't run guards on the belt (including front sprocket cover) is that when a rock does get in there, I want it to fall out immediately. Having a rock bouncing around inside a guard and getting stuck against the guard or getting bounced back between the belt and sprocket is something I want to avoid. Plus running the belt a tad looser like I do helps if one does travel through the sprocket.
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  #79  
Old 5th November 2019
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wedge , different ways to look at it, I ran a 3" primary belt drive for years, was kick start only I ran no cover for a while, then put an inside & outside stone Gard that stopped stones getting between belt and drive teeth. but no cover on top of belt . belt lasted a long long time & no stone damage. a good friend had same 3" belt drive set up, no Gard no stone shield . he got holes in his belt from stones getting in between belt & gears, then getting pushed through the belt, was three inch wide so could get away with that and not break the belt. can't stop sand & dust though.
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  #80  
Old 10th December 2019
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Chains are for the old lady... I'll leave it at that.
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