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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
gpydeski gpydeski is offline
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Default Can a clutch starter ring be attached to a drum

Last night my worst nightmare occurred. I was kicking over my 70 xlch, it kicked back and broke my ankle clean but bad. I now either sell the sporty or put an electric start on it. I don’t think I will ever kick start a bike again. From what I have read if I take the clutch basket out. I will be able to weld the ring on the outside. Is this how it is done?
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needspeed needspeed is offline
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Yes a starter ring gear can be welded to your clutch hub. Or you may be able to find an electric start hub already with the ring.

An option for you would be to buy an aftermarket starter like a Tech Cycle starter. With it you won't need to have the electric start sprocket and cam cover for starter clearance.

I'm taking the liberty to show a link to one on one of Mrmon9r's builds with that starter. And he says that you can keep the XLCH oil tank and battery box with some small mods. The only unknown to me is wether your kick start battery is up to the task with an electric starter.

http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...3&postcount=13
http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...54&postcount=7

Sorry to hear about your bad luck.
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to convert to electric you need all the electric parts. most worn ring gears are cut off and a new one welded on. or check ebay
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gpydeski gpydeski is offline
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That is the thing. The basket is so specific 57 to 70. It does not exist that much anymore. I can get the ring from j&p cycles and weld it on. The rest is more available because it will be the same for all ironheads up to 1984(I think???)
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yep, that what i did to the 74ch
they always said the hatachi system was better and that is what i installed, hindsight says i should have used the prestolite. note there are some diff so make sure all parts play nice.
you can get high power batteries in small sizes but at $$$$.
also note, when installing the ring gear, some have a bevel which has to face a certain direction, read the documentation. you do not need a complete weld, just tack in 4 places and make short 1" welds, limit heat exposure.
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Originally Posted by bustert View Post
yep, that what i did to the 74ch
they always said the hatachi system was better and that is what i installed, hindsight says i should have used the prestolite. note there are some diff so make sure all parts play nice.
you can get high power batteries in small sizes but at $$$$.
also note, when installing the ring gear, some have a bevel which has to face a certain direction, read the documentation. you do not need a complete weld, just tack in 4 places and make short 1" welds, limit heat exposure.
Good to know, thank you.
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To help prevent future injuries....
A kickstarting primer.
Too late for you, but I have posted this before.
This pic shows proper starting technique. And it inspired me to repost

I start with my left knee on the seat and rotate the motor to the starting position (about half way up the compression stroke). Getting the motor into the starting position is very important as you want to "get run" at the next compression stroke, not try to fire the stroke you are kicking on.

So half way up the compression stroke should not stall your kicking attempt, you should be able to spin past the first compression stroke fairly easy. Also when you are on the compression stroke it provides some pressure to work against to keep the ratchet set, so the motor does not roll away from the kick and release the ratchet.

Releasing the ratchet will likely cause a slip, which often turns your kicking knee inside out!

Then I raise up (to the position shown) and drop my weight on the kicker without releasing the ratchet. You don't flail on the kicker or pound on it, the wheels start spinning as you raise up and you add momentum as you drop your weight on the kicker.



Remember you are not kicking the motor like a dirt bike, you are putting energy into spinning the flywheels. The flywheels start the motor. Most of your power will be in the mid to lower part of the kicker travel, the kicker ratio is fairly high so a lot of energy at the start will meet with very heavy resistance. Once the wheels start spinning that is where you want the most pressure on the kicker to get the energy into the flywheels.

Hold the kicker all the way down until the motor stops spinning or starts, to avoid kickback. The ratchet disengages at the bottom of the kicker stroke.

Most important of all is a correct tuneup, if the spark timing is not spot on it will either kick back or fail to start, if the plugs are not clean, or if the carb is not set right, take your jacket off as you will be sweating soon.

Sad someone had to get hurt to prompt this post and hopefully you heal up well and can kick again soon.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
To help prevent future injuries....
A kickstarting primer.
Too late for you, but I have posted this before.
This pic shows proper starting technique. And it inspired me to repost

I start with my left knee on the seat and rotate the motor to the starting position (about half way up the compression stroke). Getting the motor into the starting position is very important as you want to "get run" at the next compression stroke, not try to fire the stroke you are kicking on.

So h compression stroke should not stall your kicking attempt, you should be able to spin past the first compression stroke fairly easy. Also when you are on the compression stroke it provides some pressure to work against to keep the ratchet set, so the motor does not roll away from the kick and release the ratchet. I have had the bike for fifteen years b

Releasing the ratchet will likely cause a slip, which often turns your kicking knee inside out!

Then I raise up (to the position shown) and drop my weight on the kicker without releasing the ratchet. You don't flail on the kicker or pound on it, the wheels start spinning as you raise up and you add momentum as you drop your weight on the kicker.



Remember you are not kicking the motor like a dirt bike, you are putting energy into spinning the flywheels. The flywheels start the motor. Most of your power will be in the mid to lower part of the kicker travel, the kicker ratio is fairly high so a lot of energy at the start will meet with very heavy resistance. Once the wheels start spinning that is where you want the most pressure on the kicker to get the energy into the flywheels.

Hold the kicker all the way down until the motor stops spinning or starts, to avoid kickback. The ratchet disengages at the bottom of the kicker stroke.

Most important of all is a correct tuneup, if the spark timing is not spot on it will either kick back or fail to start, if the plugs are not clean, or if the carb is not set right, take your jacket off as you will be sweating soon.

Sad someone had to get hurt to prompt this post and hopefully you heal up well and can kick again soon.
I have had the bike for 15 years before that I had a 48 panhead. My days of kicking are over. There is no way to ever have the confidence to kick again. I am going to focus on walking again first.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpydeski View Post
I have had the bike for 15 years before that I had a 48 panhead. My days of kicking are over. There is no way to ever have the confidence to kick again. I am going to focus on walking again first.
I'm no spring chicken myself but I can still kick one. I've been bit once or twice, by slipping a ratchet or trying to start not on the side stand and gaffing the inside of my knee on the upper shock mount. Still kicking....

If your scared of it then no way, you have to be confident and kick with authority and with the correct technique. Some experience is handy, knowing when to not attempt a start is vital. You have to have a feel for the motor and know if you need to clear it first, or load it up with fuel. Again the tuneup really comes into play, I hate kicking points fired ignition.

I have hand started Ironheads with electronic ignition!
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