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  #21  
Old 24th June 2020
GA_Ironhead GA_Ironhead is offline
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  #22  
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So, was going to tackle this but wanted to see what tools/parts I should have on hand in case of trouble. (Extra lock nut, a particular puller?) The sprocket moves in and out about 1/8 inch but no play side to side, so figuring it’s just the seal.

Any tips are welcome. I realize this may be 101 for most of you guys but I always have a bit of trepidation when it’s an area I haven’t tackled. And speaking of dumb questions, I have another below.

I also seem to have a bit of oil now coming out of the rigid rear rocker oil line. It’s possible that is dumping some of the oil through and onto rear chain?) When I checked it, the whole line turns slightly but the leak does reduce. To follow correct tightening/seal replacement procedure, do these lines have two nuts on each side, with one locking, that need to be loosened first, and do you need to hold top with a wrench when gently tightening/setting the bottom? I just want to be extra careful that I don’t do this wrong and cut the seal if it just needs a slight tightening. Would prefer to understand the mechanism before putting a wrench to it. Again, apologies if this is a dense question.






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  #23  
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The metal tube running between the case and the rocker cover is too short by design. What I do is hold it carefully in the mid position while I finger tighten the parts at the ends, alternating between the top and bottom. Once they are tight enough to hold the line in place I use a wrench, but still alternately, and also ensuring the the tube does not rotate during the process as that would tend to spoil the seal.

A PO has overtightened the bottom/rear as the rubber is squished up through.
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  #24  
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the rear oil feed fitting has been cross threaded into the case.
Sorry, you may get lucky and re-tap it and get it threaded in straight.

Wash that filthy xxxxer before trying to work on it.....
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  #25  
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Ok. First the sprocket movement wll be end play on the mainshaft. It;s ok, you have to have some clearance there.

I would clean the area around the rear oil line carefully and then start and run the bike for a few mintes to see exactly where the oil is leaking. I think Rick is right, looks like bottom rear oil fitting is cross threded. If it's not where the leak is coming from I would probably leave it alon for now.

There are two small rubber seals on the oil line itself. They are cheap, buy new ones. And yes, it's important to hold the line in place (in the middle) while you tighten the jam nuts. Those seals go hard with age and start to leak. Usually they just try to cure it by tightening the jam nuts. Buy new seals.
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  #26  
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Thanks for the help. The leak is from the top of that line. If I turn it ever so slightly it reduces quite a bit but not completely. If replacing or tightening, do I just turn the silver cap nuts on each side and not touch the parts that go into the case? The area you are noting appears cross threaded?


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  #27  
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For the parts that go into the case, I would remove them. clean up the threads, and re-install carefully , keeping in mind that it is steel going into aluminum.

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IMHO I would leave the connectors alone if they aren't leaking.

Having one cross threaded will mean it might be necessary to "tweak" the oil line just a tad to get it in.

But I would still just replace the rubber seals. Undo top and bottom nuts completely and then move the oil line all the way up and it should have clearance at the bottom to slip out.
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Quote:
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For the parts that go into the case, I would remove them. clean up the threads, and re-install carefully , keeping in mind that it is steel going into aluminum.

Mick's answer of course is the technically correct one.

But depending on how far in they managed to screw the cross threaded connector there could be quite a few damaged threads.
Now of course anything can be repaired but they are in an awkward spot for drilling or tapping or helicoils or whatever.
When yoy pull them out you run the rik of losing a lot of metal.
Wou could be lucky or you might wind up with a hole that needs surgery.

So if it's NOT leaking at the connector .........
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+1 ^^^^^
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