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exhaust, fuel mix, popping, stumbling

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  #11  
Old 14th September 2020
firevf06 firevf06 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy3934 View Post
yeah, if he couldn't get rid of the pop then I would have him check the manifold bands, if they're the originals their toasted by now.
From what I've learned about this bike so far I dont think anyone ever did any maintenance on it hardly. Do I pull off the piece that connects the carb to the manifold then?
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  #12  
Old 14th September 2020
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No just dribble a small mount of spray cleaner over the clamp area with the motor running to check for leaks. Motor RPM will change when sprayed if it is leaking.
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  #13  
Old 15th September 2020
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Update- will start and no popping. From my repeated tearing apart of the carb the float spring was bent wrong way. No now flooding out of carb either. While parked idling it will respond great to the little twist but when I try to drive it loses all power. If I very slowly try to open the throttle it will surge suddenly and take off screaming but then when stopped it wants to die again.
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  #14  
Old 15th September 2020
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did you set the float at 3/16" with the carb inverted and gasket in place? sounds like low fuel level to me.
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  #15  
Old 16th September 2020
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The carb has 3 "circuits" that supply fuel. The idle circuit which covers just that. The idle. Just after you crack open the throttle the Intermediate jet starts to add fuel. If that jet is blocked, partialy blocked or the wrong size you will have starvation. No fuel, the engine wants to die.
At around 3000 rpm the main jet kicks in an the mixture typically goes a bit rich and somewhere abouve 3500 it's all up to the main jet.

So, you need to identify exactly where the problem is.

Can you, with the bike at idle, just slowly increase the throttle (not trying to ride it) and tell us at what rpm it starts misbehaving ?

(Oh, don't rev it past 8000 rpm.)
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  #16  
Old 17th September 2020
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I've worked on a few bikes with zenith bendix carbs, if the float is set too low they fall on their face when taking off from a start. another thing to do is remove the adjustable mainjet and check the upper and lower holes in it, that small tube supplies the idle circuit and the intermediate also. When you cleaned that carb did you use compressed air to blow out all the passages?
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Old 22nd September 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
No just dribble a small mount of spray cleaner over the clamp area with the motor running to check for leaks. Motor RPM will change when sprayed if it is leaking.
I got the float adjusted great. Will idle ok. But still does when taking off in gear. Sprayed starting fluid around both clamps and back of carb and tries to kill it around the backside. Did kill it around the front intake band.
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  #18  
Old 22nd September 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
The carb has 3 "circuits" that supply fuel. The idle circuit which covers just that. The idle. Just after you crack open the throttle the Intermediate jet starts to add fuel. If that jet is blocked, partialy blocked or the wrong size you will have starvation. No fuel, the engine wants to die.
At around 3000 rpm the main jet kicks in an the mixture typically goes a bit rich and somewhere abouve 3500 it's all up to the main jet.

So, you need to identify exactly where the problem is.

Can you, with the bike at idle, just slowly increase the throttle (not trying to ride it) and tell us at what rpm it starts misbehaving ?

(Oh, don't rev it past 8000 rpm.)
At first I could make it scream from idle and it was fine. But after just trying to drive it then shut off, it didnt hardly want to start and once I did as soon as I turned the throttle not even half an inch is sputtered and coughed then died. But I'm going to guess the intake leaks are going to throw off everything til those are replaced. So pull the carb and clamps off and get new seals? Thanks
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  #19  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
The carb has 3 "circuits" that supply fuel. The idle circuit which covers just that. The idle. Just after you crack open the throttle the Intermediate jet starts to add fuel. If that jet is blocked, partialy blocked or the wrong size you will have starvation. No fuel, the engine wants to die.
At around 3000 rpm the main jet kicks in an the mixture typically goes a bit rich and somewhere abouve 3500 it's all up to the main jet.

So, you need to identify exactly where the problem is.

Can you, with the bike at idle, just slowly increase the throttle (not trying to ride it) and tell us at what rpm it starts misbehaving ?

(Oh, don't rev it past 8000 rpm.)
Update 10/15. new intake seals. the wide flat ones. put back together and no idle change when i spray starting fluid around them. got a new choke cable put on. bike starts but is running super rich, flames out the exhaust and the carb. In neutral the throttle responds great. Put in gear and it blubbers down to almost die. If I give the throttle a sharp twist to squirt fuel in it will take off like the devil himself is after us but if i let off the throttle tries to die. So, Im going to assume the intermediate jet is blocked. I'm just confused on why when in neutral it shows almost no problem signs now. Took for a test drive and got back to work on it and the clutch cable sheathing separated just outside the primary drive cover. I can't catch a break!!
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  #20  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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So, in neutral, if you just slowly increase the revs it's OK ?

Is that correct ?

Quote:
bike starts but is running super rich, flames out the exhaust and the carb.
Does this happen at idle or only when you twist the throttle ?

Lack of power when your riding the bike MIGHT NOT BE the carb.
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