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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
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bustert I always tuned my drums by feel.
Tone from the bottom heads, feel from the top.
I used 6 timabalis (no bottom head) mounted on my top rack for probably 5-6 years.
I hated tuning them since you have to stretch the heads so much to get the right tones.

I don't like the real tight feel, great for marching drums but no soul for a kit.
I used anti-resonate rings under the looser (not too loose) top heads to deaden overtones.
Looser top heads gave me more soul and tuning was done mainly on the bottom with fine tuning up top.
It seemed to give them more presence but not the annoying twang after you hit it.
But that is also a yin-yang situation. Retuning for recording.
The thicker sound was great live but the twang records better.

It takes a while to tune 19 drums so I spent a lot of time on it.
Then the weather changes and you do it all over again.
Or lessen your requirements......
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well, probably will lessen my requirement also. the tube has many variants with magical numbers but if you are happy with tuning ears then that is the way i will start first, guess i'll use the gauge to even out around the skin.
hummmm???? i wonder if the entire forum got together what kind of a sound it would make??? woodstock or frakenville????
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Me and guitar player tried to match notes on the drums (tuning being burned into a guitar players brain).
You can have 2 drums, same size-same heads and they will resonate at different tones.
I took that as difference in wood grain.
I used a little tool once to get even tightness around the head but didn't like the time involved for one drum or results afterwards.
With even tightness once done, the head relaxes afterward anyway.
With even tightness, tap the edge, then a little farther in, then a little farther in and then the center.
They all are different tone anyway.

edit:
Now I remember. It's basically a torque wrench.
You run around the lugs and get even tightness only to find out you've tightened the head too much to get that even tightness.
Then you loosen them all and start over.
That's why I hated that little tool.
I lost my "feel" by using it.

The Big 4 gave us that answer in this performance of Am I Evil.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__j5Z_WcVgE
These are the some of best and fastest players in the world. The drum intro says it all.
As respectable as it is to have so many playing the same instruments,
You had to understand the meaning of it before being able to appreciate the performance.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 2 Weeks Ago at 20:49..
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thanks for reminding me i have a snare drum from junior high in my closet. Ludwig i think blue metalflake from the late 60's early '70's.
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Ludwig was my first one in junior high.
I bought an old Gretsch snare from a yard sale later on for 20 bucks.
It's probably worth 10 times what my whole kit is worth now.
Mine are all in the attic at the moment. Need some more space.
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Just keep one thing in mind when tuning.
Each drum has it's own sound and resonate tones.
Don't look for pitch as much. Let the shell tell where it needs to be.
I know that's probably not a lot of help. But like everything else, tuning is it's own art.
What sounds best to you is probably where it needs to be.
There are enough different ways to tune to fill up an oil thread.

I made this drawing to see where things were happening when the timed breather turns on 1 crank revolution.

edit:
I revised it and chose to simply show this for historical value only since these specs do show up in the service bulletin.
It'd be nice to know why the specs were shown as such and any more information about this service bulletin if anyone has that information.


Last edited by Hippysmack; 1 Week Ago at 02:08..
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Quote:



Nice drgs, Hippy, shame the figures are not quite right:

52/71 breather opens 25 deg after TDC front cyl and closes at BDC front cylinder

72/76 breather opens 25 deg after TDC front cyl and closes 90 deg after BDC front cylinder

Patrick
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You beat me to it Patrick.
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That's why I just labeled it 1957.
I figured there was a change but I haven't found it yet.
Can you tell me where to find that information?
I didn't see it in the FSMs.
There is a -60 gear part number change.
I haven't found any pics of the 57 one yet.

The 57 XL, according to service bulletin #381 - 57 XL fitting instructions,:
BREATHER VALVE---Breather valve timing is checked in relation to front piston position.
OPENS 77 deg. (1-11/16") after piston top dead center.
CLOSES 67 deg. (31/32") after piston bottom dead center.
Here is the PDF of the bulletin.
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/lib/ex...in:tsb0381.pdf
Please download and read the specs.
According to that bulletin, the drawing is correct for 1957 XLs.
According to the part number, the drawing should be correct for factory 1957-1959 models.

Now I just need to verify the specs for the -60 gear.

Also, 72-76 Opens 20°-25° (ATDC) and closes 85°-90° (ABDC).
What's the 5 degree lead in opening and closing?
Is that accounting for gear lash?

26331-52 52-55 K Models .
26331-56 56 KH / 57-59 Sportster .
26331-60 56 KH, 60-71 Sportster .
This new gear came with the new breather and scavenge gear set (26330-56).
Replacement for breather gear 26331-56 for 56-59.
26331-72 72-76 Sportster.

I'll be making drawings for the three different gears but I want to make absolute sure the figures are correct first.
It's time consuming to make changes to them.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 1 Week Ago at 20:23..
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Biker Parts Superstore sells a breather for 56-59 manufactured bt V-Twin.
HD-OEM: 26331-56
But the question is, did they build the window to -60 specs?
https://bikerpartsuperstore.com/engi...959-sportsters



JW Boon has a 26330-56 but I haven't ran across that part number anywhere.




Here is the 26331-60



And the 26331-72


Last edited by Hippysmack; 1 Week Ago at 02:49..
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