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  #11  
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Thanks for your input. I have this sinking feeling the clutch is dragging, and the previous owner did some damage to the transmission by assaulting the shifter. I'll heed your advice and assess the condition of the clutch pack and transmission gears before I do anything else.
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Look. hopefully there's little to no other damage.

If the clutch was dragging that bad when he had it he wouldn't have ridden it much.

Amd the Sportster gearbox is actually quite a tough little beast. Apart from the C/S boss.

Problems with oil inside the dry clutch are quite common and can be addressed.
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Read these...
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1734747
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Thanks a bunch; I'll have a look!

I took the derby cover off, as well as the clutch basket cover, and sure enough... about a cup of oil poured out. Is the clutch basket supposed to have so much play?

I've got some instructions for a Sputhe 7700 transmission access cover in the folder that was included with the bike. Anyone have any experience with one of those or know how they differ from the stock item? Also, my primary is belt drive.

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Someone running a Sputhe cover will hopefully chime in here but pretty sure he made a "doublewide" version the same as a Burqhardt.
Somepeople felt the trap door was a weak point that needed better support. Trock made cast iron versions. But Burhardt (and Sputhe I think) made version which has a double row bearing instead of the single row bearing. In engineering terms it makes more sense.
I run the Burqhardt version in my current sidecar. Along with a Phase 3 belt drive.

A Sputhe door with a belt drive meant someone was serious about the torque they were tring to make with this engine.

Are you sure this engine isn't stroked ?

Anyway, back to your clutch. Depending on your clutch shell there will be either one or two small needle roller bearings in the shell. They do wear but even from new you will find some movement. It's generally nothing to worry about. The bearing in the trap door seems to take most of the punishment and they are often worn out.

There are both wet and dry versions of clutch plates. But given you have a dragging clutch problem these are probably dry. Once you clean them up you might be able to tell what material they are made from.

On a side note I discovered that sintered iron plates don't care if you get oil in there. They still work.

And another side note I went back to chain drive for the last race meeting as I have been breaking belts. But that's a different story all together.

If I were you I would want to talk to the engine builder about a number of things.

The pipes looked like zero signs of blue. How many miles on this engine before you fot it ?

I'm wondering if this is a brand new rebuild and wondering about break in.
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I'm not entirely sure it hasn't been stroked; of course, I only have the notes to go by.

As far as the clutch is concerned... I noticed when removing the filler plate on the derby cover that oil dribbled out. There's only supposed to be approx. 26 ounces in there, right? It sure seemed like it was overfilled. I can take the clutch basket and just wiggle it back and forth about 1/4" in either direction.

Believe me... I wish talking to the engine builder were an option! I have a ton of questions. There was no speedometer/odometer on the bike when I got it (fragged speedo drive), but the exhaust ports are clean and have virtually no carbon build-up.

Winter's upon us here, and I'm in the process of trying to put wood up, but I'm hoping to get around to removing the clutch and access cover within the week.

Last edited by ProLibertate; 1 Week Ago at 15:19..
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It may not necessarily be over filled. These engines (76 and earlier) have a transfer valve that allows engine oil to migrate into the primary; it is a normal function. I wouldn't be overly concerned with the play in the clutch basket.
Check post 40...
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=581947
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the clutch basket will have some movement but 1/4'' is close to twice the normal range.excessive movement will cause the seal at the rear to leak.there are several places oil can enter the clutch basket the rivets being another.
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Go back and take gearbox out check shifter forks and shim if necessary then youl know that part is not the problem Had one of those 66 was a pain to start My right leg grew bigger ha
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