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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #21  
Old 17 Hours Ago
Ferrous Head's Avatar
Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 4,078
Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton
Sportster/Buell Year: 1962
Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966
Other Motorcycle Model: XLCH (Another one)
Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
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On my bike a mag is essential. But that's because I run alcohol and very high compression. I do run the Morris gen mount version and it's been great.
But before you start considering buying anything you need to be honest with what you aim to achieve.

I too have the choice to run in an early or late class. In the early class only the 900 style engines are allowed.
My engine is super competitive in that class. I'm up against Vincents, Nortons, Triumphs and BSA's. They just can't come close to the torque I can make.
In the later class I can run a 1000 engine but it's a big ask. The competition is much higher. Speeds are higher which puts strains on everything else. Suspension, brakes and the frame all now come into play in a big way.

If you are seriously going to spin an Ironhead engine you need to invest in a better rotating assembly. Cast iron flywheels don't cut it when you do start making power.

THE smart way to do the bottom end id with an S&S assembly. They will come balanced for your pistons and ready to run. Seriously for a race engine that one is a no brainer.

If your class limit is higher than 1000 cc's then stroke it at the same time. Follow Smokey Yunicks advice and build the biggest engine you can for the class. It is the CHEAPEST way to get torque.

you will win far more trophies by finishing races than having more HP than anybody else. Build a reliable, solid runner with proven parts There are enough guri's around here to help you with all of that.

be honest about you budget. A LOT of guys want to go racing on a shoestring. There is so much more to racing in terms of cost than just rebuilding a cheap bike and throwing in a few "hot" parts. Things like trailers, fuel, entry fees, tires, accommodation, helmets, leathers etc etc etc all add up to b more important (generally) than the cost of the bike.

If you have never raced before, grab a stock bike and go out and have a run. That will tell you a LOT about what is required and if you really want to go down this path.

Having said all of that you'll never know unless you try. It's like trying to explain an orgasm to a 21 year old virgin. No words suffice.
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  #22  
Old 14 Hours Ago
Scott Scott is offline
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I truly understand the financial horrors of racing. I campaigned an XS650 sidecar many years ago and will be selling my Harley 45 racebike to finance this Sportster. Hadn't planned on replacing the crank assembly, but now you've got me thinking. I'm using the 1979 and later frame and plan to transplant a dual disc XS650 front end. I'll just relace the rear bub to an 18" rim. My current vintage racebike is a 250 cc Can Am dirtbike turned roadracer. It's faster than me. I'm slow, but I like to finish races. There are always people far more skilled then me on the track. This is embarrassing, but one of the magneto's biggest draws (run on on my 45) is that I always forget to charge the battery in a total loss system. I've learned that e-ignitions don't appreciate being asked to run on low voltage. Points don't seem to care. Maybe a voltmeter next to the tach will help? Anyway, here's photo of my non-Sportster racebike that is frustrating me, which is why I'll be selling it.

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  #23  
Old 14 Hours Ago
Scott Scott is offline
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P.S. I'm limited to stock bore and stroke. The class limit is 850 cc but there is an exception for Sportsters.
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