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  #41  
Old 16th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate.evans View Post
Nothing was connected to the generator for test #6. Both regulator wires were disconnected like the test said.

I never did test 7 as it didn’t even pass test 6. I figured there was no chance it would pass test 7 if it was only producing ~30% of the voltage it should be (.6v instead of over 2v) during test 6.
Well - My thought was this...

Even though it is not producing at the level Mick suggested, which is a function of the residual magnetism, by grounding F terminal you would more fully energize the field coil to build to maximum output...

Perhaps there is some variation in the amount of residual magnetism in different model generators that would account for a variation in that low voltage --- --- but I would try Test#7 just the same - to see if the generator would build up to a voltage near the proper range...

For me, I'm still trying to make sure you are not replacing something unnecessarily so I'm suggesting thoroughly testing each piece until I'm 99% sure it's good or bad...

If you can confirm the generator works - then the regulator is certainly suspect...

I would certainly expect a new generator & new regulator to get you to a functioning situation - brianbbs67 suggested "replace both with the Cycle Electric products and be done. They are a little pricey , but work as described . I have them on all 3 of my early sporties."

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  #42  
Old 16th July 2018
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I initiated the return process for that generator. Now that I know my wiring is good, I'm going to quit messing around and just get the Cycle Electric. Oddly, in every other facet of business I always preach "you get what you pay for" and I should have known a $140 generator, even if it was an "oem manufacturer", was too good to be true if the "standard" is close to $400.

I'll be ordering the Cycle Electric later this week and HOPEFULLY that solves all the issues....
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  #43  
Old 17th August 2018
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So the Cycle Electric fixed the electrical issues, bike cranked on a battery with 12.45 volts, when revved to 3k rpm voltage was sitting at 14.x volts.....but now it won't stay running...like there's a fuel starvation issue.....back to square one.

But on the electrical issue...Cycle Electric is the end all be all. I should have went that way from the get go...thanks for your help.
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  #44  
Old 18th August 2018
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Originally Posted by Nate.evans View Post
So the Cycle Electric fixed the electrical issues, bike cranked on a battery with 12.45 volts, when revved to 3k rpm voltage was sitting at 14.x volts.....but now it won't stay running...like there's a fuel starvation issue.....back to square one.

But on the electrical issue...Cycle Electric is the end all be all. I should have went that way from the get go...thanks for your help.
Squirt some gas into the carb as it starts to stall out and see if you can keep it running that way. Starting fluid works too, but short tiny bursts so you don't flush the jug walls. If it's a fuel issue, you should be able to keep it running this way to prove it.

Then the usual suspects... plugged tank vent, plugged in line filter (I will never use one they suck), plugged petcock, or plugged carb.

You can eliminate everything before the carb by disconnecting fuel line at carb and sticking that end of hose in a clear bottle as you open the petcock and observe the flow. It should flow out fast, in volume and stay that way. If it looks like the bike has a prostate problem, it does.
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  #45  
Old 19th August 2018
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So the Cycle Electric fixed the electrical issues, bike cranked on a battery with 12.45 volts, when revved to 3k rpm voltage was sitting at 14.x volts.....
Great to hear that resolved it - You did everything you could to make sure it was necessary before buying a new gen... Good for you - Hope you learned along the way...

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  #46  
Old 20th August 2018
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Great to hear that resolved it - You did everything you could to make sure it was necessary before buying a new gen... Good for you - Hope you learned along the way...

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I learned a whole lot....a lot thanks to you.
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