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  #21  
Old 9th July 2018
Nate.evans Nate.evans is offline
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So I bought a new generator and thought the problem was fixed....rode the bike a few times even. Started noticing it was taking more than one kick to start and yesterday it quit on me while I was going down the road. Loaded it into the van, checked the voltage and battery was at 7 volts.

I have been riding it with the lights not even on (in position 2, where it runs, but no lights). I even re-wired it as you showed in the daigram where the hi beam for the headlight isn't connected and the brake light isn't connected. Recharged the battery yesterday and it showed at I had 13.2 volts, one weak kick and it started right up.

So is this a bad regulator? What could be causing a drain on the electrical system like that? Bad battery?
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  #22  
Old 9th July 2018
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You'll need to measure voltage on the Battery as the bike is running - THAT voltage needs to be more than 13.5v (more like 14v+) in order to be charging the battery... IF the voltage is not higher (than the battery by itself), then the charging system is not working - If you're confident of the generator, then check the regulator for proper grounding & check for inproper shorts somewhere... IF you have a spare 'known good' regulator, swap it in there & check the running voltage on the battery...

Did you get another stock generator or aftermarket (what brand/model)? Did you check with the Ironhead section about generators or read any of the IH sticky threads:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=465866

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  #23  
Old 9th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
The Circuit Breaker across the taillight as in your diagram shown is not right...

================================================== ==========

I've created a simplified wiring diagram that includes what you mentioned:

http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:elec07


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It may help if you could add the wiring between the generator and the regulator to this schematic. Is there power to the field terminal for instance?
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  #24  
Old 10th July 2018
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OK - I updated the SP Diagram - Which now propagated to all the above posts that pointed to that image... What you see now is the new image...

It now includes the Generator/Regulator wiring...

Notice that I did not follow the HD wire colors in order to minimize the number of wire colors that are needed to be purchased...

Only Black, White, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green...

I tried to make no connection point have the same color twice - This should make it straight forward to know which wire goes to/from the devices...

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  #25  
Old 10th July 2018
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So I got a brand new battery under warranty just to eliminate things. I added the acid, waited an hour, topped it off, then waited an hour before putting it on the charger. I have the following charger:

http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Batter...ger-Maintainer

Set it to a standard battery at the 2A charge setting. Let it sit until it read 100% and at 100% it said 13.8 volts, which took about 3 hours.

Mounted it on the bike, took a jumper wire and tapped on the A terminal on the generator to make sure the generator was polarized. You could feel the generator armature turn momentarily when it polarized. Out of curiosity after trying to kick start it a few times I checked the voltage and it was at 12.8 volts. I have the following meter:

http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Batter...-System-Tester

Started the bike and let it idle for about 5 minutes, occasionally revving and holding the throttle at 2500-3000 rpm for a few seconds. It stayed between 12.57 and 12.63 volts with it in position 2 (no lights running) whether revving it or not (a momentary dip in voltage when the rev started but it caught back up to that range)...I switched it to position 3 (lights running) and the voltage dropped immediately to being between 12.27 and 12.34.

I don’t have another regulator to try against. The PO Repaired/spliced the black wire that goes from the regulator to the junction plate behind the headlight that I thought may have been a bad connection. I replaced/fixed it using the proper connector and still no change in performance.

The generator is a brand new unit. DB Electrical GHD0003. After checking them out, they’re an oem manufacturer for several other brands’ alternators so I ordered it. It polarized fine when installed.

The ONLY part of the electrical system that is not brand new are the little circuit breakers under the seat and the regulator. All the wires are new. There are not points as it’s an Ultima digital system with a new coil and plug wires....
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  #26  
Old 10th July 2018
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Did you put your meter on the 'A' (Armature) terminal of the Generator to see what voltage is there when idling & revving?

With the Regulator output connected thru the main fuse to the battery, the Regulator output terminal & the Battery voltage should always be the same level, unless you have a breakdown in the wiring/connections between the two...

The GEN LIGHT (thru a diode) is used to compare the voltage coming off the 'A' terminal of the Generator to the voltage on the Coil Power (basically, the Battery voltage after the keyswitch)...

If the Generator 'A' voltage is lower than the Battery voltage, the light comes on, because there will be a voltage difference from one side of the light to the other... And indicates that the Generator is not feeding enough volts into the Regulator...

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  #27  
Old 10th July 2018
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Looking at the diagram again, I’m wondering if I need another ground from the regulator. I have a green, red, and black wire that comes out of the regulator. Red goes to the A post, green goes to the other post, the black wire goes to the junction plate behind the headlight.

I tested the voltage. Bike started in one kick, voltage fluctuated from 12.57-12.62 volts on the battery while running. Disconnected the negative meter clamp and connected it to the A post on the generator and it was exactly .5 volts lower.; fluctuating between 12.07-12.12. So is this a grounding issue or a bad regulator? Seems odd that it would be a bad regulator if if the voltage is staying pretty level, just not at the higher voltage it SHOULD be at. Then again, I’m still learning the charging circuit/electrical stuff, so I’m just guessing here.

Thanks again for your help!!!
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  #28  
Old 11th July 2018
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Here's some testing (from an IronMick thread) for the generator operation:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39146

and here:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=559976

Try those tests...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 11th July 2018 at 00:49..
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  #29  
Old 11th July 2018
Nate.evans Nate.evans is offline
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Do you think the generator brand new would be bad? I know the old one was bad because it wasn’t holding voltage at all. Also when I took it apart, it fell into pieces.
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  #30  
Old 11th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate.evans View Post
Do you think the generator brand new would be bad? I know the old one was bad because it wasn’t holding voltage at all. Also when I took it apart, it fell into pieces.
Just covering all the bases - It sounded to me like the 'A' voltage was too low...

If you do the tests, the results may shed some light on what's happening...

Do you have a good ground on the Generator to Engine to Frame to Battery? Put your multi-meter on ohms and check from the Generator case back to the Battery Negative...

Also check the case of the Regulator to Battery Negative... If your Regulator has a separate grounding lug, measure from there also back to the Battery Negative...

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