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16th January 2021
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Webster, NY
Posts: 4,191 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 883/1200 Hugger Sportster/Buell Year: 1995 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 11 RK
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Good luck! Show us the finished repair.
__________________
...Once in a while you get shown the light, in the strangest of places if you look at it right...~Robert Hunter/Jerry Garcia
 (In remembrance of Ruby Red "Beebe")
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16th January 2021
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 11,925 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200R Sportster/Buell Year: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: 5 bikes and 1 quad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonizedeyesockets
Hey all! Some reason I wasn’t getting updates on this one. Thanks for the input!
Ok that’s wise to grind it. Am I looking to make it smooth for a good JB contact or like is it like I should be cutting it back to make it one angle. ?
When you say tube, are there aluminum tubes I could buy? Or what do you mean?
Any chance anyone knows the size? I suppose I can measure it easy enough I don’t know measurements like this very well thought might ask in case its common one.
Thanks all
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I assume you are talking about grinding before epoxying the tube in place. No, you do not want a smooth surface, you want plenty of roughness (called tooth) to the surface. the main reason to grind it a bit is to clean the surface good before epoxy. Take your time, pull the carb apart, get some aluminum tubing from your local hobby shop like Iron Mike mentioned, carefully enlarge the hole with a drill to the size of the tube OD. Cut a short piece of tube (careful to keep it at flange level when installing so you will have less to take off to resurface it) and smear a bit of epoxy on the outside of the tube, place it in the hole, then add epoxy around the tube to mold a clean shape around the tube. After it sets up good, use a smaller drill bit (by hand) and clean out any epoxy you may have allowed to get in the passage. Resurface the epoxy where the mounting surface is using a coarser file to rough carve it and a finer file to finish it off and it's done. Pay attention that the gasket or carb does not block that hole off or the carb can't draw fuel from the bowl when engine is running. Make sure when you resurface that you do not make the mounting surface uneven (wavy). It needs a clean seal or you will get a vac. leak.
Hole size is not rocket critical, it's just the bowl vent. A very important vent but still just a vent. Just get tube that is approx. the same ID as the hole was. Save the rest of the tube. Like most of us, you will end up with a selection of tubes, springs, screws, etc. They will become useless clutter until you decide to throw them out. Then I guarantee that your next job will require something you just pitched out. Or as always happens too, you won't be able to remember where you put it and you will still have to buy another one. Then you will find it, probably as you look for a place to keep the new scrap.
Last edited by wedge; 16th January 2021 at 22:07..
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17th January 2021
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Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: United States
Posts: 3,057 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200/1250C Sportster/Buell Year: 05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge
I assume you are talking about grinding before epoxying the tube in place. No, you do not want a smooth surface, you want plenty of roughness (called tooth) to the surface. the main reason to grind it a bit is to clean the surface good before epoxy. Take your time, pull the carb apart, get some aluminum tubing from your local hobby shop like Iron Mike mentioned, carefully enlarge the hole with a drill to the size of the tube OD. Cut a short piece of tube (careful to keep it at flange level when installing so you will have less to take off to resurface it) and smear a bit of epoxy on the outside of the tube, place it in the hole, then add epoxy around the tube to mold a clean shape around the tube. After it sets up good, use a smaller drill bit (by hand) and clean out any epoxy you may have allowed to get in the passage. Resurface the epoxy where the mounting surface is using a coarser file to rough carve it and a finer file to finish it off and it's done. Pay attention that the gasket or carb does not block that hole off or the carb can't draw fuel from the bowl when engine is running. Make sure when you resurface that you do not make the mounting surface uneven (wavy). It needs a clean seal or you will get a vac. leak.
Hole size is not rocket critical, it's just the bowl vent. A very important vent but still just a vent. Just get tube that is approx. the same ID as the hole was. Save the rest of the tube. Like most of us, you will end up with a selection of tubes, springs, screws, etc. They will become useless clutter until you decide to throw them out. Then I guarantee that your next job will require something you just pitched out. Or as always happens too, you won't be able to remember where you put it and you will still have to buy another one. Then you will find it, probably as you look for a place to keep the new scrap.
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Haha! This is why I end with so much 'junk'. Forgot where I put it and buy more 'junk'! I bet I have enough 'junk' to start a small hardware store.
CRS is a b!tch!
Last edited by 60Gunner; 17th January 2021 at 00:29..
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17th January 2021
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: So Cal
Posts: 22,252 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2006 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2006 Other Motorcycle Model: 48 "Totalled" By a Douche Other Motorcycle Year: 2012
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Most of my "JUNK" is actually sorted and stored
__________________
Thy Sportster Come
It Shall Be Done
On Earth as it is on Salt
2006 Sportster XL1250C
Hammer Sledge Heads 1.98X1.61 Valves
Hammer 600 Cams
Big Ass CP/Hammer Pistons
Mikuni HSR 45 /Hammer Billet Manifold (Now HSR 48)
Jetted 27.5 slow,182.5 Main
97 Needle,Clip posistion 3
Hurricane Flow 3" offset AC,Rocketman Mod
Daytona Twin Tec TC88A,Rico Scarecrow Map
Sumax Thundervolt plug wires,NGK DCPR8EIX spark plugs. Gapped .040 and Indexed
Cycle Electric Stator and Regulator
Alto Carbonite Clutch (now with Barnett Pressure plate and 25% stiffer spring)
Royal Purple 20W50 MC Primary oil
Patriot Defender Pipe
Royal Purple 20W50 MC Engine Oil
Napa 7148 oil filter
Max Power, 111.47
Max Torque, 84.39
Best 1/4 Mile ET to date 11.85
Best 1/4 Speed to date 115.14
Build by Jester Motorwerkz West
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17th January 2021
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 11,925 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200R Sportster/Buell Year: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: 5 bikes and 1 quad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketmangb
Most of my "JUNK" is actually sorted and stored
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So's mine, but do you know where I stored it? Neither do I. 
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17th January 2021
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 11,925 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200R Sportster/Buell Year: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: 5 bikes and 1 quad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Gunner
Haha! This is why I end with so much 'junk'. Forgot where I put it and buy more 'junk'! I bet I have enough 'junk' to start a small hardware store.
CRS is a b!tch!
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I could put Home Depot out of business worldwide if I can only remember where I stashed my junk. 
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17th January 2021
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: So Cal
Posts: 22,252 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2006 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2006 Other Motorcycle Model: 48 "Totalled" By a Douche Other Motorcycle Year: 2012
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Even my nuts and bolts are relatively "sorted"
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3 Weeks Ago
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Biker
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 81 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster XL883 /1275 Sportster/Buell Year: 2004 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Sportster XLH1200 Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2002
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hi all. a little update.
I wasn't able to find small diameter and thin aluminum tubing. I figured I would seek out a form for the repair and that the form would need release. I decided up on a 20D common nail with 3 layers of electrical tape to get the perfect fit for the broken carb air hole. Then I wanted to test options so (not on the carb!), I put a thin layer of aquaphor (cause I didnt have vasoline) on one taped nail and then tried red line assembly lube on another nail &tape. Mixed up the JBweld and had a go. Waited a full 24hrs and check back, to my joy both of the tape nails slide out for test. The assembly lube was easier to clean so I decided upon that.
So thats what I did. I got a new nail, 3 layers of tape, put a thin amount of redline on tape area where i didnt want the JBweld to adhere, placed it into the carb hole, and with fine paper edges and a q-tip made sure to clean off the area the weld needed to contact with aluminum carb body. Now this was the gamble part i think, either i over do it and it doesnt hold or i under do and am stuck with a nail in the carb! Anyway did my best surgical cleaning, said F it and had a go. Came back 24hrs later expecting the worst and it pulled out without a hitch. Cleaned it off, hand filed excess JB down flush with the gasket and here we are.
https://ibb.co/9Yyy8J6
https://ibb.co/FWbPYvf
https://ibb.co/71FVXcN
https://ibb.co/JFzjW84
https://ibb.co/9GdByxr
The good news is that I think that part is repaired.
Now my problem is I also cleaned the carb, replaced gaskets, accel pump, went to a 45 jet, and to SS hex bolts. It'll start with enricher full out, 15seconds and enrichener 1/2 dies. First mix was at 2 out. then tried to 1 1/2. tried upping the idle gradually on both since it sounded so low. I dont have a tach . But maybe I should be going to other way to richen it if its running w enrichener hmm. Off to read over sportsterpedia carb section.
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3 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 11,925 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200R Sportster/Buell Year: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: 5 bikes and 1 quad
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Good job. It looks nice and solid. If it ever cracks over time (and I think it will not), all you need to do is the same thing again.
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