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  #11  
Old 14th May 2018
IXL2Relax's Avatar
IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200
Sportster/Buell Year: 1994
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I'll start by agreeing with jammantoo - I suggested previously:

Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Have you checked your battery cables? Both Ends? Especially the grounding end on the rear motor mount bolt? And the harness grounds on the other rear motor mount bolt?

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Battery cables, voltages and grounds:
Sportsterpedia - Check Your Battery Cables
Did you do the ground checks all over the bike? (there are a number of grounds distributed around the bike from this era model) - But especially cleaning the battery cable connections & testing that they are not brittle, corroded or already broken --- The battery ground cable is terminated at the Rear Motor Mount Bolt - Check/clean this carefully - Also check what the schematic describes as "Ground to frame beneath brake caliper hose clamp below battery".


Quote:
Originally Posted by bladedoctor View Post
the only output readings - only connected to one of the 3 15A circuit breakers, after the key is turned on.

Only Blue wires - volts drop from 12.9 to 6.2

Only Orange wires - volts drops from 12.9 to 9.2

Only Gray Wire - no change
Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Wires running off the CBs outputs are as follows:

Blue Wire is for the Lights circuit - to the headlight switch, the Front Running Lights (dim part of dual element) and to the taillight (dim part of dual element)

Orange Wire is the Accessories circuit and powers the Starter Relay, the TS module, the TS switches, the horn, the brake light switches, the speedo & tach lights, and the neutral & oil indicator lights

Gray Wire goes to the RUN/Stop Sw, thru & out as a White wire to Coil & Ignition Module
... also, the RUN/Stop Sw feeds the Starter button, thru & out as a Black wire, it becomes a Black/Red wire to the Starter Relay
If you have not done the ground checks & cleaning - Do that first - Then take these readings again...


Have you had the battery load tested? I know you said it's new, but there are dead cell batteries from new...

The fact the circuit breaker doesn't pop off (when pulling the voltage this low) makes me wonder if it's the battery supply or ground that is at issue still...

Get back to us - Then we can begin tracking down the individual circuits...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 14th May 2018 at 12:16..
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  #12  
Old 15th May 2018
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200
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Here's the battery readings I took last fall from my 1994 XLH, four months after replacing my battery:

My check showed the following voltages:
1) 12.9v - Key Off
2) 12.5v - Key ON
3) 11.2v - Cranking
4) 14.7v - Idling

All Good !

IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
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  #13  
Old 16th July 2018
bladedoctor bladedoctor is offline
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Good news. The ole Hog is back on the road again! Thanks to everyone for all the help you sent my way. If the technician working on it (me) had not been a dumb ass, it could have been running 2 months ago. When the problem first started, I volt tested the battery and it had an almost "0" volt reading. So, I got in a new, sealed battery, hit the starter and it did nothing. So, I figured it must be a wiring problem. I didn't want to rundown the new battery, so I set it on the floor next to the bike and connected it with a motorcycle jumper cable. And, I hooked my battery tender to the battery to keep it built up while turning the bike on and off many, many times. Whenever I turned on the ignition switch, voltage dropped from 13 volts to 8-9 volts. I went over every wire, testing it for continuity, voltage, and ohms. Voltage dropped only when the blue lights wires were connected to the breaker. And, the lights were dim. So, it had to be a wiring problem, right? Wrong! The new battery was no good! Having the battery tender hooked to it, made it look good to me, until I noticed it leaking around the negative terminal. It had a 2 year warranty. I got in the replacement battery last week. The first thing I did was to take it to Advanced Auto Parts for load testing. It was good! Installed it and everything was a go. I went for a 2 hour ride this morning--the best therapy in the world.

I have a question about the new battery. It's a sealed, 12V, PowerStar-HD/Blue battery. Whenever I test it, I get a reading of 14.7 volts. I hooked a multimeter to the battery with the bike running and the voltage reading is 16.2 volts at 1000rpm, 2000rpm, and 3000rpm. The voltage doesn't change when the rpm changes. I have never has a cold battery showing 14.7 volts. From what I've read, battery voltage on the bike when it's running should be around 14.5 volts. This battery's voltage is higher than that when it's cold. So, my question is, should I be concerned that the battery voltage goes up about 1.5 volts to 16.2 volts with the bike running and charging the battery? I'm hoping that something on the bike is not a battery killer.
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  #14  
Old 16th July 2018
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Glad that your Sportster is running again. It would pay you to get a factory destruction manual: Battery voltage should not exceed 15 volts.

Quote:
Did you do the ground checks all over the bike? (there are a number of grounds distributed around the bike from this era model)
If the voltage regulator is not grounded it can result in over charging. Test the earths as per the repair manual.
Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine or frame ground and the other ohmmeter lead to the regulator base.
The correct reading is 0 ohm.

Then do a voltage regulator bleed test. Disconnect the voltage regulator connector. Connect one probe of a 12-volt
test lamp to a good ground. Connect the other test lamp probe to one of the voltage regulator pins, then to the other pin.
If the test lamp lights, replace the voltage regulator. If the test lamp does not light the voltage regulator is functioning properly.
Reconnect the voltage regulator connector.
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  #15  
Old 16th July 2018
bladedoctor bladedoctor is offline
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It's been almost 24 hours since I rode yesterday and I just checked the battery again. It's reading 14.9 volts. Is this some new type battery that I've not heard of? So, when the bike is running, if voltage goes up only 1.5 volts to about 16.2, that doesn't seem like a problem to me. I did test the voltage regulator and it seems OK to me. I have 3 different "destruction" manuals for it. And, I printed a large 18" X 24" wiring diagram.
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  #16  
Old 16th July 2018
Bored now Bored now is offline
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Sounds like your meter is reading high, a battery at rest, fully charged, should be 12.7 volts.

Last edited by Bored now; 16th July 2018 at 16:34.. Reason: sp
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  #17  
Old 16th July 2018
bladedoctor bladedoctor is offline
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Thanks Bored now. You have solved the mystery. I put a new battery in my meter and the battery now reads 13.0V. If my math is right, it should read around 14.5 when running. Thanks again for all the help.
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