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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Erikdowney18 Erikdowney18 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
Reputation: 5255
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Still no bueno, after taking the carb off and playing with the O-rings the bike will almost hold an idle and will just sit there and run like shit. I don’t know if it’s a vacuum issue or if maybe I burned a valve but it just can’t get going. I’m gonna see if I can grab a compression tester from work to test the barrels but somethings clearly not kosher. I’m thinking maybe change the points too? I know last time they went I had am extra set of contacts but no condenser so I only switched the contacts. Also gonna try throwing a set of rubber bands on the manifold too and see what that does. Any other areas I should circle back before I start thinking top end work?

Just figuring start stupid and get smarter
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  #12  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Ferrous Head's Avatar
Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 5,986
Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton
Sportster/Buell Year: 1962
Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966
Other Motorcycle Model: XLCH (Another one)
Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
Reputation: 1385550
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Quote:
I actually took some wire and ran it through all the jets
Don't do that. You will damage them. Compressed air is your friend.

Idle is controlled by a small hole partially blocked off by a tapered screw. The seat that screw goes into can be damaged simply by tightening that screw too much.
The passages inside the carb need to be clear. Given that you have a rusty tank there may well be small particles in the internal passages that feed the idle circuit.

When you just "crack" the throttle it uncovers another very small hole sitting just in front of the throttle disc. (On the venturi side of the carb) You see how small that hole is ?
The enrichner circuit also needs to be working correctly. It provides extra fuel for starting the engine but should shit off fully when released.

I have a new tool in my box that determines for me if the problem is in the carb or the ignition system so I do not have to guess at which area the problem is.

It's pretty expensive ($59 on Ebay) and a bit fiddly to use.

BUT - it does guarantee me that I'm looking at a carb problem and not an ignition system problem. Or even a compression problem.

Eliminates 2/3 rds of all problems immediately.
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  #13  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Ferrous Head's Avatar
Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
Blind Owl
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 5,986
Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton
Sportster/Buell Year: 1962
Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966
Other Motorcycle Model: XLCH (Another one)
Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
Reputation: 1385550
Ferrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond reputeFerrous Head has a reputation beyond repute
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OOOOPS !

Sorry, the price of that tool has dropped to $52.

I've used mine a couple times now and it works like a charm.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Carbure...ampid%3APL_CLK
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