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4 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pottstown PA.
Posts: 15,559 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1960 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 C Sportster/Buell Year #2: '03
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the clutch plates look like wet or dry plates to me when i see grooves cut in them like that.i tried running energy one wet or dry plates dry.i was disappointed, went back to the oem style.
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72 1000cc barrels and heads, s&s 41/2'' flywheels, sifton cams, s&s super B w/ zippers thunderjet w/yost powertube, andrews gears,and shafts, competition engineering kevlar wet or dry clutch, 72 oil pump, morris magneto w/auto advance and single fire module, cycle electric generator w/electronic regulator,73 cu.in.
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4 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 8,290 Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton Sportster/Buell Year: 1962 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966 Other Motorcycle Model: XLCH (Another one) Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
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Dry clutches are what we used to put in all our race bikes. Years ago it was quite an expensive option but necessary if you wanted to win races.'Oil is slippery stuff. And it matters very little what material (with one exception) is used on the plates. A wt clutch won't hold the same torque as an equivalent area dry clutch. Not without help.
So, we put in "wet" plates and add stronger springs.
Now we have a problem with the pathetic clutch worm arms that twist and bend. Plus a heaver pull on a clutch that needs Popeye to pull it in to begin with.
I tried every plate I could find to go into my sidecars. Kevlar, Organic, wet plates, the red ones (Alto ?), green ones and brown ones. None really worked.
Finally fixed the problem with advice from a top fuel engine builder. Steve Smith, Thank you Steve. Sintered iron. Even works covered in HPR50.
But on a stock bike any plates will work if the clutch is kept dry. No need for stronger springs or exotic plates. It would probably help to use new springs and having the stack height set correctly.
Sportster dry clutches and gearboxes are probably the best from the the period. Bar none.
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"I know only too well the evil that I propose. But my inclinations get the better of me."
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3 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 54 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1970 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLS Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: FLS Other Motorcycle Year: 2013
Reputation: 10

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Thanks to you all... I am finally getting everything back together... even put the primary case cover on without putting the friction plates in ;-)
I will finish everything tonight and ride for the first time (I hope) but I wanted to share a few things already regarding the springs I replaced on the pawl carrier and clutch.... I tried to take the picture with the old and the new shown, though the differences may not appear big on the images
Pawl Carrier Springs, got the replacements from Denniskirk... left new, old on the right...
Cam follow spring, got replacement from JP, new one is in the bag
shifter pawl spring, denniskirk again... you need two of these...
clutch springs from JP, probably not too much of a big deal to find... however, kinda roughly manufactured...

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3 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 8,290 Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton Sportster/Buell Year: 1962 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966 Other Motorcycle Model: XLCH (Another one) Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
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Quote:
even put the primary case cover on without putting the friction plates in ;-)
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I would suggest you install them.
The FSM calls for having the distance set from the spring cup to something like 3/16ths (I forget and don't have my FSM here.
I can't remember if they tell you to "get the plates even", or however you describe this. But the idea is to have the pressure plate lift evenly. all around, when you pull the clutch in. Try to get the plate to lift as evenly as you can.
The clutch lifting mechanism on the Ironhead wasn't great right from the start. There's not really all that much "lift" in the mechanism. If the plates aren't lifting evenly you will get some frag. That's not good.
The clutch pressure plate is a weak link as well. That little slot the clutch push rod end fits into is prone to breakage, Probably because it's too thin and flexes as you pull the clutch in.
The stock dry clutch on the 900's was the best in the business when introduced. 60 years later it was still working for the XR750's putting out over 100 HP.
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3 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 54 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1970 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLS Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: FLS Other Motorcycle Year: 2013
Reputation: 10

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Thanks Ferrous Head... in fact... my pressure plate is bent a bit... I have ordered a new one but it doesnt come in for a few more days...
I put the old one in for the time being .... works fine after messing with the hub stud nuts a bit...:-)
FSM says '3/16 from inner surface of tension adjusting plate to outer surface of spring cup flange'...
seems fine, rode a bit yesterday, however, I had to mess with the clutch adjustment screw :-)
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3 Weeks Ago
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 269 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year: 1969 Other Motorcycle Model: Honda Shadow Other Motorcycle Year: 1986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head
..... the pathetic clutch worm arms
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One more time for the engineers in the back Ferrous! And most of the "oem" repos are worse than the original. (I believe I ended up tossing it and bendi g the original back on place)
Tough clutch on an ironhead DO NOT PULL (ask me how I know) , stop, look, your probably going to have to pull your primary. I KNOW IT FEELS LIKE ITS GOING, ITS NOT, YOUR WORM ARM IS BENDING
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3 Weeks Ago
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cornelius, OR
Posts: 10,171
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Someone here makes an improved clutch release worm
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3 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: surrey, bc
Posts: 290 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1972 Other Motorcycle Model: homebilt fxr Other Motorcycle Year: 80+
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^^^
put one in my 70ch
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pete
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3 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 8,290 Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton Sportster/Buell Year: 1962 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966 Other Motorcycle Model: XLCH (Another one) Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
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Chevelle (?) or MrMom9R (?)
I forget. I'm old. They are a good solution if you want to retain the stock look.
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3 Weeks Ago
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pottstown PA.
Posts: 15,559 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1960 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 C Sportster/Buell Year #2: '03
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^^^ chevelle.he had them for sale on ebay..now?don't know.
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