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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #31  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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the clutch plates look like wet or dry plates to me when i see grooves cut in them like that.i tried running energy one wet or dry plates dry.i was disappointed, went back to the oem style.
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  #32  
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Dry clutches are what we used to put in all our race bikes. Years ago it was quite an expensive option but necessary if you wanted to win races.'Oil is slippery stuff. And it matters very little what material (with one exception) is used on the plates. A wt clutch won't hold the same torque as an equivalent area dry clutch. Not without help.
So, we put in "wet" plates and add stronger springs.
Now we have a problem with the pathetic clutch worm arms that twist and bend. Plus a heaver pull on a clutch that needs Popeye to pull it in to begin with.

I tried every plate I could find to go into my sidecars. Kevlar, Organic, wet plates, the red ones (Alto ?), green ones and brown ones. None really worked.

Finally fixed the problem with advice from a top fuel engine builder. Steve Smith, Thank you Steve. Sintered iron. Even works covered in HPR50.

But on a stock bike any plates will work if the clutch is kept dry. No need for stronger springs or exotic plates. It would probably help to use new springs and having the stack height set correctly.

Sportster dry clutches and gearboxes are probably the best from the the period. Bar none.
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  #33  
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Rolschnee Rolschnee is offline
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Thanks to you all... I am finally getting everything back together... even put the primary case cover on without putting the friction plates in ;-)

I will finish everything tonight and ride for the first time (I hope) but I wanted to share a few things already regarding the springs I replaced on the pawl carrier and clutch.... I tried to take the picture with the old and the new shown, though the differences may not appear big on the images

Pawl Carrier Springs, got the replacements from Denniskirk... left new, old on the right...


Cam follow spring, got replacement from JP, new one is in the bag


shifter pawl spring, denniskirk again... you need two of these...


clutch springs from JP, probably not too much of a big deal to find... however, kinda roughly manufactured...
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  #34  
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Quote:
even put the primary case cover on without putting the friction plates in ;-)
I would suggest you install them.

The FSM calls for having the distance set from the spring cup to something like 3/16ths (I forget and don't have my FSM here.

I can't remember if they tell you to "get the plates even", or however you describe this. But the idea is to have the pressure plate lift evenly. all around, when you pull the clutch in. Try to get the plate to lift as evenly as you can.

The clutch lifting mechanism on the Ironhead wasn't great right from the start. There's not really all that much "lift" in the mechanism. If the plates aren't lifting evenly you will get some frag. That's not good.

The clutch pressure plate is a weak link as well. That little slot the clutch push rod end fits into is prone to breakage, Probably because it's too thin and flexes as you pull the clutch in.

The stock dry clutch on the 900's was the best in the business when introduced. 60 years later it was still working for the XR750's putting out over 100 HP.
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  #35  
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Thanks Ferrous Head... in fact... my pressure plate is bent a bit... I have ordered a new one but it doesnt come in for a few more days...

I put the old one in for the time being .... works fine after messing with the hub stud nuts a bit...:-)

FSM says '3/16 from inner surface of tension adjusting plate to outer surface of spring cup flange'...

seems fine, rode a bit yesterday, however, I had to mess with the clutch adjustment screw :-)
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  #36  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
..... the pathetic clutch worm arms
One more time for the engineers in the back Ferrous! And most of the "oem" repos are worse than the original. (I believe I ended up tossing it and bendi g the original back on place)

Tough clutch on an ironhead DO NOT PULL (ask me how I know) , stop, look, your probably going to have to pull your primary. I KNOW IT FEELS LIKE ITS GOING, ITS NOT, YOUR WORM ARM IS BENDING
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  #37  
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Someone here makes an improved clutch release worm
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  #38  
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^^^

put one in my 70ch
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  #39  
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Chevelle (?) or MrMom9R (?)

I forget. I'm old. They are a good solution if you want to retain the stock look.
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  #40  
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^^^ chevelle.he had them for sale on ebay..now?don't know.
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