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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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1972, wiring kit, xlh

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  #11  
Old 18th June 2019
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Yes making your own harness is the best way.

A Pre-made harness will almost always need rework to fit your layout so why not build your own.

It's not just the main harness you also need all the short sections and bar harnesses.

Most Existing harnesses are repairable you just have to back out of all the damage previous owners have inflicted.

Expect with any pre-made harness to have to do rework.
A pre-made harness is a good start if you don't have the supplies on hand to build one.
Harnesses get fairly complex on the later models and jamming all that crap into the headlight is no fun.
Finding parts is problematic, VTwin has harness kits, Drag has the molex connectors and pins but not the shorting bars.
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  #12  
Old 19th June 2019
owlsplace owlsplace is offline
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I bought a cheap handlebar wiring harness and have had two switch failures. I'm imagining the replacement switches I ordered are coming from the same source which doesn't inspire confidence. Nothing like being miles from home and having your Run switch fail....
Would love to find some higher grade switches somewhere.

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  #13  
Old 19th June 2019
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Perhaps you are overloading the switch (too much current)?
Or are they failing mechanically?
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  #14  
Old 20th June 2019
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Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
Perhaps you are overloading the switch (too much current)?
Or are they failing mechanically?
I can't imagine any overload on these. The brake switch stuck in the on position and the run switch stayed open. I didn't take it apart to see what the issue was though. It operates the relay so the current load should not be an issue. Also, the turn signal switches are intermittent. I will replace with my old switches which were still working.
I may start over with a HardDrive handlebar kit with all new controls.

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  #15  
Old 20th June 2019
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Sounds like the chinesium in those switches failed.

Drag sells good switches, they are Chinese but better quality.
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  #16  
Old 21st June 2019
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I found the ones at jp were good kits the bad parts are the switches ,no where near the quality of the Oem switches,but most of the Oem switches you get will have lots of wear,get the handle bar harnesses with the switches already on the terminals are small and don't take well to a lot of handling, bending or soldering,the OD originals were molded of Bakelite a baked hard plastic that does not soften with heat,new ones ar a thermoplastic which softens with heat ,solder heat can screw em up.wires were good but shrink tube the connectors
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Old 21st June 2019
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Originally Posted by shooterj2003 View Post
I found the ones at jp were good kits the bad parts are the switches ,no where near the quality of the Oem switches ...
, new ones are a thermoplastic which softens with heat, solder heat can screw em up. wires were good but shrink tube the connectors
That may have been part of the problem with the brake light switch as I soldered the spade lugs. They fit loosely so I anticipated connectivity issues. It did work for a while before it failed.
I just ordered some female spade lugs to go with the new switch due to your heads up on the heat issue.

Added photo of failed switches. They are cheaply made and won't stand much heat. Maybe spade lugs with adhesive shrink wrap is a better choice for these.

Meanwhile, i reinstalled my old switches. The new wires aren't great either if you need to solder.

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Last edited by owlsplace; 27th June 2019 at 22:49..
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