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  #31  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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canoli canoli is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
As decman previously posted: connect together the two wires that attach to the switch and see if the brake light turns on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by decman View Post
1 ohm pedal up?
Well that's not right.
Is the brake light on all the time when the switch is connected?

But I agree, replace the switch.
No the light is not on all the time only when I use the brake lever. The pedal does not light the lamp but the brakes work fine.

I don't know if I'm reading the OHM setting correctly but it never seems to work right. That's why I use the continuity setting. But yes with the pedal pressed I get 0 - and 1 OHM pedal up.

Isn't that what you'd expect from a working switch? Zero resistance with the pedal down, closing the circuit to light the lamp. And then resistance when the pedal is up... except I figured the resistance would show infinite and not just 1.
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  #32  
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A little later than expected but...

Evidently it was the switch. I replaced it and now the pedal lights the lamp. Yay!

Now if I could just get it to quit squeaking - the rear brake. I think I'll start a new thread in the brakes section.

Anyway at least the pedal activates the brake light so now it'll pass inspection.

Thanks for the help you guys!

Last edited by canoli; 5 Days Ago at 19:07..
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  #33  
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John Harper John Harper is offline
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Occam's Razor.

Those switches are prone to failure for some reason. Had to replace mine a few years ago.

John
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  #34  
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Haha! Occam's razor indeed!

The thing is the switch passed the only test that's in the FSM, a continuity test so I figured it was good...until I realized it's not an electrical switch it's an electric/hydraulic switch and evidently the hydraulic mechanism failed.

Thanks for the help everyone!
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  #35  
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
I don't know if I'm reading the OHM setting correctly but it never seems to work right. That's why I use the continuity setting. But yes with the pedal pressed I get 0 - and 1 OHM pedal up.

Isn't that what you'd expect from a working switch? Zero resistance with the pedal down, closing the circuit to light the lamp. And then resistance when the pedal is up... except I figured the resistance would show infinite and not just 1.
What meter (brand and model) do you have?
A closed circuit should be close to 0 ohms, if the meter is zeroed when prongs touch one another. If it reads more than 0, when prongs are touched, then subtract that value from your readings.

With circuit open, yes reading should be infinity.

These readings need to be taken on de-energized circuits.

For continuity and resistance readings the VOM battery sends a voltage, the meter then calculates the resitance to that voltage.
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  #36  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
What meter (brand and model) do you have?
A closed circuit should be close to 0 ohms, if the meter is zeroed when prongs touch one another. If it reads more than 0, when prongs are touched, then subtract that value from your readings.

With circuit open, yes reading should be infinity.

These readings need to be taken on de-energized circuits.

For continuity and resistance readings the VOM battery sends a voltage, the meter then calculates the resitance to that voltage.
I have an old IDEAL Test-Pro with 2 OHM scales, 200 and 200K. Both read 1 with the leads free. With the leads touching each other the 200 scale reads -1. On the 200K it reads -00.0. So I'm already a little confused by this meter. I always assumed the -1 reading is INFINITY but it's an assumption. And I don't know why the 200K scale doesn't also read -1. Maybe I can find a manual online now that I think of it...

I posted I was getting "with the pedal pressed I get 0 - and 1 OHM pedal up." Except I think it was a -1, which I guess is why DECMAN replied that the reading didn't sound right. Only 1 OHM resistance on an open circuit can't be right.

If it was a -1, and if that means INFINITY on this meter...are those readings correct for a normal-open switch?

The meter is old but I've checked it against other meters and it's reliable for Volts and Continuity, it's just the way the OHMs are displayed that confuses me.

Someday I'll buy a Fluke and then I'll know for sure it's user error when I don't understand a reading lol!

Thanks for your help Doc I appreciate it!
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  #37  
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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On my Fluke 77 (inherited from my dad) infinity (sideways figure 8) is indicated by OL.
On my Radio Shack 22-0820 digital pocket meters infinity is indicated by OF

It is easy to add resistance to an ohms read, by less pressure on the probes, etc.

My Fluke will read 0.1 to 0.2 ohm, leads pressed together, even after exercising the probe plugs to the meter and pressing the leads together firmly.

So, a reading of 5.2 ohms, after getting a test read of .02 = 5.0 ohms actual.

I do not understand -1, unless an unusual manner of indicating infinity (doubtful), as less than zero ohms is impossible (let's not morph this with electron accelerator comments)

Zero ohms is perfect continuity, absolutely no resistance in the measurement.
Infinity ohms is an open circuit, the resistance immeasurable with the meter.
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  #38  
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Thanks Doc - so a -1 OHM reading is weird...no wonder it always confused me.

I may never own the $600 88V Fluke but I want a reliable OHM meter. I might have to go analog. If it's not as accurate as digital at least I understand the display!
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  #39  
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I appreciate having my dad's Fluke 77 ($300?), but most of my diagnostics were done with a $30 Radio Shack digital pocket auto-range meter.
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  #40  
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Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
I might have to go analog. If it's not as accurate as digital at least I understand the display!
I like the analogs I have. They'll show voltage spikes/fluctuations the digitals damp out. But I mostly use $30 digitals, to save and protect my analogs. They tend to be more fragile.
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