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  #41  
Old 3rd November 2021
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^^ what was the anti-seize used on?i'm curious because it's pretty much the opposite of threadlocker.
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  #42  
Old 4th November 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
^^ what was the anti-seize used on?i'm curious because it's pretty much the opposite of threadlocker.

https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default...l.pdf?sfvrsn=2

Flip to page 19.
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  #43  
Old 4th November 2021
Vellu Vellu is offline
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are there stud differences? when i installed the studs in place today some went easily but some were very tight. the normal thread tap went into tight holes easily. the spare cases stud came off hard. will i buy new colony studs or will I install the existing ones?
Sorry my english, it came on google translator….
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  #44  
Old 4th November 2021
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thanks for the link Chuck.combustion heat is the deciding factor with the big twin motors.
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  #45  
Old 5th November 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vellu View Post
are there stud differences? when i installed the studs in place today some went easily but some were very tight. the normal thread tap went into tight holes easily. the spare cases stud came off hard. will i buy new colony studs or will I install the existing ones?
Sorry my english, it came on google translator….
Hi Vellu

The studs should be tight. OEM studs are made to be an interference fit. They are fatter than regular bolts. See this post from Dr Dick http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...&postcount=101 he knows what he is talking about.

Yes, my studs came out very hard from my old case too. Any time you have original parts, its usually better to use the original rather than new aftermarket parts. The aftermarket parts usually come from China and quality is hit and miss - one batch might be good and the next batch is bad. I do not know about Colony though, maybe someone else can report on how reputable they are.

Bolts are something that might be better to get new because old bolts could have been over torqued and stretched beyond their service limit.

Is it easy to find and buy parts in Finland? Of course most Harley parts come from the USA and even next door in Canada it is often not easy to get parts. Well not easy because they advertise "Free Shipping" and "Next day delivery" but to order from Canada shipping often costs more than the part and then it takes 2 weeks to arrive and some places just do not ship to Canada period.
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  #46  
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colony is based out of brunswick, Ohio - about 25 miles outside of Cleveland.

They are considered one of the gold standards for reproduction hardware.

On sportsters, Colony has worked closely with members of the Old Sportster and K model Research Group, specifically Dave Carolton, on improving the quality and accuracy of repo sporty hardware, clamps, etc. Currently, you can get all sorts of sporty parts from colony ranging from the full solo seat set up (save t bar) to much of the unusual hardware to "speed" bits such as speedo drive plugs.

They did have a fit/finish problem on rolled threads for cadmium parts about three years ago which was due to the platers adding too much cad. This is now resolved and I've bought a LOT of colony pieces the past two years in cad and park finishes with ZERO issues.

Another good supplier is Old Dude. But, you need all your part numbers to buy from Old Dude and the hardware ain't cheap. But, it is super quality and an equal alternative to Colony.
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  #47  
Old 6th November 2021
Vellu Vellu is offline
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thanks for the answer Billeuze. Well i try to install the stud bolts even though they are tight in their holes. Those stud bolts that are loose I install with glue. how deep should the stud bolts be installed? they were not installed to the bottom
Almost every parts are available in Finland and there is also a big nos parts wholesaler in europe, jw boon.
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  #48  
Old 6th November 2021
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Hi Vellu. I don’t know how deep they are “supposed” to go. My threads are clean and I can easily thread in a regular bolt until it bottoms out (the stds do not go in so easy so I used a bolt to test). So when it bottoms out the bolt is has this much thread inside the case: 1.15” - 1.20” (they are not all exactly the same). My studs have 1.20” of thread bellow the shoulder. So they should all be able to thread in all the way down to the shoulder ( my studs have .12” of thread below the shoulder). This is what I intend to do because that would leave me .4” of thread exposed above the top of the cylinder base. Then I will have to use a couple of washers to fill the gap between my Allen nuts. But you should not copy what I do because I am not using standard ironhead cylinders nor the standard 1/2” tall ironhead base nuts. In other words I don’t have the correct answer to your question.

Last edited by billeuze; 6th November 2021 at 17:41.. Reason: Correct measurements
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  #49  
Old 6th November 2021
needspeed needspeed is offline
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You should not thread the stud in so it bottoms out. With stock studs they should be threaded in so that approximately 1-1/4 inch is left above the case deck.

That will give full thread engagement in the nut when using stock cylinders and stock base nuts.

The unthreaded shoulder on the stud will end up very close to touching the case.
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