Turn signals won't work when cold

[bustert]

yep, used cold spray in electronics but for a large encased system it would take a ton of spray. that is what i am hoping, bad connection. but only when a signal is on suggest a draw down on power, so maybe a short somewhere, not likely in the harness so it points to the module. not the speed sensor as it will work when the signals are off and it gets its power elsewhere.
if it is the module, the biggest issue is un-potting it and hoping the components are not house marked.
before i open her up, i will pull the speed pulse lead off the module to see if it goes away. i will not have self cancel but hey riding a 1974ch it is still better, just have to remember to punch it off, hummmmm, maybe put a backup alarm.

https://www.customdynamics.com/auto-...-position-male

[Tomcatt]

Originally Posted by Debute23

Does it work when warm?

Yup without fail.

Also during the cold I've noticed that if I push the turn signal (left or right) a bunch of times in a row it will turn on.

Do you have the correct bulbs in the turn signals? If the bulbs don't pull enough amps you have problems. Lower wattage conventional bulbs or LED's without the correct bypass resistors can be a problem.

[bustert]

in electronics it is first check the power supply because with out proper power many things can happen and point you into the wrong direction.
update to my issue:
i pulled the pulse lead from the speedo to the module and the same symptoms stayed, speedo quits with turn signal on. battery voltage does swing with with flash and swing is greater at the power terminal at the speedo lead. interesting but to be expected but the capture of H/L levels suggested a dip below what the speedo wanted.
of interest was the battery tested good and charged to 13+ volts but when the machine was running only a tad over 12. so that point to the regulator or PMG. since the system runs off the regulator when running and battery making up the short fall, the regulator just puts out enough to barely keep it running and when the signals are on, pulls the voltage down and the speedo stops.
so today i will test the charge system and put it on an o-scope to see what is going on.
hopefully it will be a ground issue even though i added an extra ground, if not then a few $$$$. will be the 2nd, 1st went out due to a burned will on the pmg lead.

[bustert]

turns out to be a shorted to itself winding on one of the poles as ac amplitude is down which makes the dc level low also so a new stator.
guess i am fortunate in that this problem saved me from getting caught on the road with a dead system.
probably will wind it myself and epoxy encase it.

[Debute23]

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax

Did you do any diagnostic testing?

Tomorrow I should be able to pop off the tank and take a better look at the wires. I was very busy this week. Rode every day, though.

So you have a very in depth understanding of which wires do what; and I have acquired a multimeter.

What wires are directly related between turn signals and stopping the engine?

I never thought to test the horn and I forgot about brake lights, but every other electric works just fine. Kill switch, starter button, high beams, ignition switch, running lights.

Im no longer being super suspect about the TSM but the BAS.

How does the BAS even work? Does it just stop your spark plugs from firing?

[IXL2Relax]

Originally Posted by Debute23

How does the BAS even work? Does it just stop your spark plugs from firing?

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the BAS:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k_angle_sensor

And here's the mod to remove & simply eliminate the BAS so it cannot affect the engine:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...bas_bypass_mod

Functionally - The BAS feeds a signal to the Ignition Control Module (ICM). That signal is based on "Bank Angle" of the bike, such as upgright vs tipped over. It is intended as a safety feature to shut off the engine if you drop the bike, but like the kick stand interlock, it can be unreliable and a PITA.

The function of the BAS should not affect the Turn Signals (unless you have pinched/shorted wires somewhere). As long as you understand how not having the BAS affects the engine operation, you can jumper (bypass/eliminate) the BAS to prevent its misfunctioning - many have.

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Originally Posted by Debute23

What wires are directly related between turn signals and stopping the engine?

There is nothing directly related between the TSM Function and controlling the engine (unless you have pinched/shorte wires somewhere). The TSM is powered from the Accessory Fuse using the ORANGE/White wire. The ICM is powered from the IGN Fuse using the GRAY wire to the RUN/STOP switch and then the WHITE/Black wire to the ICM.

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When you have the seat off, see Post#5 (above) for the pinouts of the TSM connector. Follow my instructions there to test the TS Switches with a meter & to test both right & left TS bulbs using a jumper.

Just a reminder (based on another thread), the Running Light up front should be on the DIM element of the dual-element bulb. The Turn Signal should flash the BRIGHT element of that bulb. If you have that wiring backwards, you may not notice the TS flashing the DIM element when the BRIGHT is (incorrectly) on constantly.

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And, with the TSM connected, you can use Cold Spray or Hair Dryer to change its temperature to see if the TSM is failing due to heat/cold.


Good Luck.

IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
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[Debute23]

Alright, so after wiggling every single wire, I think I came down to the problems.

1) Turn signal probably needs a new inside, but I've yet to find what I'm looking for. Here's a picture.



2) The elbow's that attach to the coil (I think it was the purple wire, the top right side of the coil) was rather loose. I installed a Dyna 2000 Ignition Module awhile back, so perhaps it had some loose at the coil.



How can I get a better connection? It looks like they should screw in but I ended up just sort of jamming it back on after installing a washer to make the connection better.

[IXL2Relax]

Did your wiggling & reconnecting wires resolve the problem? Or are the bulb contacts damaged down in the housing. You can look on eBay to get a used replacement turn signal.

If those are threaded studs on the coil (I can't tell from the pic), you could get Ring Lugs to terminate the wires. Then use nuts on those threaded studs to mount the wires.


IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride On The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!

[Debute23]

It's a threaded stud. Changing it to a nut might actually be the long term solution. It's a work week again so I don't really want to take anything apart as I only get a few hours of daylight after work, and I'm tired afterwards.

I haven't checked the bulbs yet because they are just the older style filament I think it's called, and I don't suspect them of any issues.

Bike is running great right now. Might just leave it as is. Jk I bought a new battery since all this began so I'll have the seat off again soon.

[Tomcatt]

Originally Posted by Debute23

I haven't checked the bulbs yet because they are just the older style filament I think it's called, and I don't suspect them of any issues.

If you really want your turn signals to work it's where you start. Make sure the contacts aren't cruddy and the sockets are well grounded.