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Sportster Motorcycle Tires, Wheels, and Brakes Discuss issues with Sportster motorcycle tires, wheels and brakes.

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  #11  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw Loose Dan View Post
How old is the brake fluid and brake lines? Personally, I would be rebuilding the master cylinder, flushing fluid, and cleaning everything real good. Brakes (even the rear) are something I want to be 100% certain are going to work flawlessly, everytime.
Rear brake lines and caliper original 2004. Little over a month ago I did a MC rebuild with fresh fluid however I must say have never cleaned the brake components ever. Just quick brake pad changes.
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  #12  
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I'd try bleeding them again, at each connection, some of the brake line is lower than the caliper, yes?
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  #13  
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OK, the brake runs freely. That suggests it is not misalignment. So, either it is something you changed recently like the rebuilt MC or
something new that needs servicing.

As the calliper heats up it should be able to bleed back to the MC via the compensation port. If that doesn't happen the brake can bind
on as it heats up and the fluid expands. This can happen for instance when a seal is not seated correctly or the pedal cannot return fully.
That is one possibility to look at.

It also sounds like you ought to check the calliper and pins carefully. It could be that a piston is sticking. If so, dismantle and clean the
calliper carefully and rebuild with new seals. I suggest you don't go spraying brake cleaner around.

Re-bleeding may help but in general air will leave the system spongy.
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  #14  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli1200 View Post
Rear brake lines and caliper original 2004. Little over a month ago I did a MC rebuild with fresh fluid however I must say have never cleaned the brake components ever. Just quick brake pad changes.
Yes, this is 99% sure your problem. The sliders have to be cleaned and greased every time you do brakes or this possibility will exist. Sometimes you can get lucky, but you see the issue, so you didn't get lucky this time.
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  #15  
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Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Yes, this is 99% sure your problem. The sliders have to be cleaned and greased every time you do brakes or this possibility will exist. Sometimes you can get lucky, but you see the issue, so you didn't get lucky this time.
Sorry please forgive me but what exactly do you mean by cleaning and greasing the "sliders". As in the 2 pin bolt mounts? The pad pins?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli1200 View Post
Sorry please forgive me but what exactly do you mean by cleaning and greasing the "sliders". As in the 2 pin bolt mounts? The pad pins?
This is hard to explain without actually showing you. Clean and "LIGHTLY" grease (a light silicone grease or die-electric grease) the pins and where the pads (outside edge) rest on the opposite side from the pins. You should be able to see where the pads slide back and forth on a tin(?) slider that is pressed into place with your fingers. Use very little grease as you do NOT want to get any on the pad area or the rotor.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli1200 View Post
Sorry please forgive me but what exactly do you mean by cleaning and greasing the "sliders". As in the 2 pin bolt mounts? The pad pins?
The pad pins do get cleaned and light grease or anti seize, but No, I mean the two pins that the caliper itself slides on where the caliper is attached to that big piece of steel that holds the caliper on the swing arm. The caliper (all calipers with single piston or pistons on one side of the caliper) need to be able to slide freely side to side otherwise the caliper can't move to account for pad wear. If they are frozen, then when you apply brake the piston pushes the one pad against the rotor, but can't pull the back side of the caliper towards the rotor to make contact with that other pad. The extreme of this is that as the pad in the back wears some, the caliper is pulled crooked upon braking since the pins will not allow for it to slide into position. Or as is likely your situation, they can't slide enough to allow the pad to settle into position to begin with, or they slid once to get it in position, now they will not allow for the caliper to slide back to allow the rotor to turn freely when you release brake.
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Again, caution... The smaller of the two pins is notorious for getting cross threaded when people remove it without taking the tire off and removing the bracket with it. If you do it the safe way, by removing the bracket, then just pull the caliper off the pins, and clean them good, and clean the holes they slide through, and lightly grease or anti seize.
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Okay thanks for the response. I do have a service manual so will check this out.
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