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  #11  
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james69 james69 is offline
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IXL, I did the tests, am I supposed to push my start button while doing this test? I got no spark from any of the series of tests. I don't have a multimeter but I might go buy one tomorrow.

I took a video of what I was doing to make sure I am doing what you've instructed right. I apologize in advance if I messed it up. I am pretty terrible at electronics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVS4jcwCeqg
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  #12  
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Try to clamp the plug to the fins - like this (from the Sportsterpedia) - It needs to be held TIGHTLY against the fins:


At this point, we are not using the ignition module to activate the coil - We don't need the starter running...

We are activating the coil manually... by grounding & releasing that jumper wire... But it needs power on the other contact for that to work...

It looks like you're trying the right thing - but we now need to make sure you are getting voltage to the coil (since you're getting no spark) on the Black/White wire...

With the keyswitch ON & the RUN/STOP in RUN, the Black/White wire SHOULD have power to the coil...

You need a test light or a multimeter to check for power...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on buying & using a multimeter:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:elec02

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  #13  
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Much appreciated IXL, I will be picking up a multimeter tomorrow and doing the tests again with the spark plug clamped like that.

I did do the test on the other side with the black/white wire plugged in and the pink wire off and still no spark. I will report back tomorrow, thanks!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james69 View Post
Much appreciated IXL, I will be picking up a multimeter tomorrow and doing the tests again with the spark plug clamped like that.

I did do the test on the other side with the black/white wire plugged in and the pink wire off and still no spark. I will report back tomorrow, thanks!
Just to verify - For all tests, the Black/White wire should be connected to the coil - The Pink wire should be removed from the coil - The jumper wire should attach to the coil post where the Pink Wire had been...

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  #15  
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IXL, I picked up a multimeter, on 200 ohm setting I am getting 3.7-3.8 on the coil when i pull the white/black wire and the pink wire and put the multimeter on those two posts.

Tested the secondary from the plug wire to the coil post on 200k ohm setting I am getting no reading off either plug wire.
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Test-1 -- Stick one probe in each tower - measure ohms between the two towers...

Then - Ground the BLACK meter probe - to the battery negative...

Set your meter to 20 volts DC (not AC) voltage scale...

Make sure the Black/White wire is connected to the coil, but the Pink Wire is not connected...

Put your RED meter probe onto the Black/White wire on the coil...

Turn the Keyswitch ON & place the RUN/Stop switch in RUN...

TEST-2 -- What is the voltage reading at the Black/White wire on the coil???

Turn the RUN/Stop to STOP - Turn off the Keyswitch...

Leave the BLACK meter probe on the negative battery terminal (grouinded) and place the RED meter probe on the positive battery terminal...

Test-3) what is the battery voltage with the Keyswtich OFF
Test-4) what is the battery voltage with the keyswitch ON
Test-5) what is the battery voltage when you crank the engine over... (Keyswtich ON, RUN/Stop in RUN, Pressing START Button)

Report those findings...

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Test 1: 11.05 @ 20k on the multimeter setting
Test 2: 12.16 on the 20 volts DC setting
Test 3: 12.31 battery voltage with switch OFF
Test 4: 12.31 battery voltage with switch ON
Test 5: 10.5 - 11 while cranking, but I saw it dip to 9 something while cranking it a second time.
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You got -
Primary Coil Test - 3.7 to 3.8 ohms
Test 1: 11.05K @ 20k on the multimeter setting
- The manual calls for 2.5-3.1 ohms Primary & 10K-12.5K on Secondary...
That looks OK

Test 2: 12.16 on the 20 volts DC setting
- That looks OK

Test 3: 12.31 battery voltage with switch OFF
- That means the battery is pretty low on the charge

Test 4: 12.31 battery voltage with switch ON
- That means the system is not overloading the battery
- BTW, was the RUN/Stop switch in RUN?

Test 5: 10.5 - 11 while cranking, but I saw it dip to 9 something while cranking it a second time.
- That means the battery is still holding it's power very well - but is low on charge...

So - I don't think the Coil is bad from a defective wire (WHILE COLD) - but it could be failing in other ways... and the Battery looks like it's still good -

BUT, the battery will need to be charged up soon... It's good enough to do these tests...

===================================

NOW - Since you have the meter, let's back up & make sure the fins on the engine are grounded...

With the Keyswitch OFF - Using the 200 ohm scale, put the BLACK meter probe on the negative battery terminal - Now put the RED meter probe on the engine fin...

Test-Fins: - What is the ohms reading?

Let's do a little more testing, with the Keyswitch still OFF - Put the meter on 20v DC voltage scale...

Clamp the RED meter probe to the Battery Positive terminal - Make sure you don't short that terminal to anything else around it...

Now put the BLACK meter probe on each of the following points & record the voltage reading:

A) Battery Negative Post
B) Front Engine Fins
C) Rear Engine Fins
D) Ignition Module Mounting Plate (in Nosecone)
E) Regulator Mounting Bolt (between frame down tubes)
F) Front Fork Leg (either one)
G) Front Turn Signal Mounting Bolt (either one)
H) Rear Right Motor Mount Bolt (upper)
I) Rear Left Motor Mount Bolt (upper)
J) Rear Turn Signal Mounting Bolt (either one)

The voltage you read on the meter at each of the rest of these points should be very close to the voltage you read on Test(A) of the Battery Negative Post...

REPORT YOUR FINDINGS...

If all of the above voltages are close, then go back to the previous spark plug test (in post #8) & try again - but this time with the spark plug CLAMPED to the fins...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 18 Hours Ago at 03:50..
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