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  #1  
Old 15th April 2011
ironhead7777 ironhead7777 is offline
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Smile new tranny , what tools and gaskets will I need?

hi amigos!

I just got a new tranny to put on my 77 sporty,

the one it has , grinds first and is not able to engage it, second , third and forth will engage fine! (running)
while engine is off will engaged all, but its difficult to find neutral.

so i dont wanna deal with old tranny so Im putting this new one on.!

Never done this before, my skills levels are medium high! I disassembled clutch before, so I kind know my way into primary,

Now trying to figure it out what tools will I need and gaskets,

Im looking @ youtube video about pulling it out but not many details there,

any help here? I got Clymers

thanxs guys
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  #2  
Old 15th April 2011
ironhead7777 ironhead7777 is offline
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can i do this with the engine mounted on?

do I have to uninstall the opposite side as well, chain sprocket? then soft hammered it to push it out? thanxs
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  #3  
Old 15th April 2011
RGT RGT is offline
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Yes drive sprocket has to come off. Yes engine in frame. might want to get a new seal for the drive sprocket side. Hope it all goes well for you.
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Old 15th April 2011
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billeuze billeuze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGT View Post
Yes drive sprocket has to come off. Yes engine in frame. might want to get a new seal for the drive sprocket side. Hope it all goes well for you.
+1

But I wouldn't hammer the sprocket side of the shaft to get it out. you should pry the trap door out with a big screwdriver or small, prybar.

Also watch for the 23 roller bearings that will fall out when you pull your mainshaft. Don't loose them.

No special tools required once you've got your clutch off.

Is this a brand new Transmission or a used one? if used you should check all the clearances and shim as necessary to make sure it'll work properly. I know you wanted to avoid doing this but you may have to get into it some day. The precedure is well documented in the factory service manual - I don't know about the clymer. Also look for a transmission thread by scottericsonon. Here it is: http://xlforum.net/forums/s...d.php?t=657134
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  #5  
Old 15th April 2011
ironhead7777 ironhead7777 is offline
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Thanxs so much guys, its a nice shape ,bolt on tranny , I think i do need that sprocket seal since i see dripping tranny oil on the sprocket side. oh by the way, do the tranny needs a gasket?? i know primay does.
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  #6  
Old 15th April 2011
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Quote:
my skills levels are medium high
Then you'll be fine. You're working on a simple machine.

If you hit a bump in the road we're all here to help.
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  #7  
Old 15th April 2011
ironhead7777 ironhead7777 is offline
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Default tranny

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob F View Post
Then you'll be fine. You're working on a simple machine.

If you hit a bump in the road we're all here to help.
thanxs so much!
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  #8  
Old 16th April 2011
notaffiliated notaffiliated is offline
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SORRY BUT HAVE TO DISAGREE WITH THE ABOVE STATEMENT. there is nothing simple about an iron head motor to someone without experience. it may SEEM like a simple 2 cylinder, old fashion motor but you'd be very mistaken to assemble one that way.
for starters, you can NOT just bolt in your new trans and go. you will be inviting disaster.
just a few things to consider. most trans trap doors are designed to fit the cases they came on. many times replacing with another trap door will mean machine work.
the main shaft bearings are plug fit. you can't simply just pull one main shaft and put another one in. can go on and on. sure there will be a few to jump in. there is quite a bit to know and consider before you even pull your old trans.
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Old 16th April 2011
RGT RGT is offline
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There is no gasket for the transmission cover/trap door. They are simple but do as mentioned above and check the gear clearances as well as the main and counter shaft endplays. as you start to tighten the cover first time in don't just run the bolts in tight, check to see that there is no binding and that your shafts in and out continue to turn freely, if not stop it may be that you have too little endplay clearance on one of the shafts and that will mean you need thinner thrust washers. You might take the thrust washers off both shafts and put it together so you can measure the shaft play and compare to the washer thiccknesses. I found that to keep the shifter arm from moving when installing the trans that hanging the shifter lever pointing straight down was a big help, its weight kept the shaft from trying to turn and you could see by any movement of it if it had or was moving. I greased the rollers to hold them in the innermost shaft bearing, if you do this you need to only install the tranny by pushing in, don't pull it back a little and then continue on in as you may have dropped a roller and not know it. Others leave the rollers out and install them after the tranny is in by removing the snap ring and washer on the sprocket side. Do whichever you are most comfortable with, the snap ring way leaves less of a chance for a mistake but I never do things the easy way. read through the trans stickies until you understand what the clearances are you need to check....
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  #10  
Old 16th April 2011
GA_Ironhead GA_Ironhead is offline
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By comparison to modern engineering, the IH is relatively simple. However, simple doesn't mean specification/tolerance-free. The OP needs a FSM as a primary reference. Consider it the price of admission.
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