Leg 2
June 29 – Day 4 of the 2022 Hoka Hey
Olathe KS – Hereford TX
Everyone, and I mean EVERYONE, was awoken around 4am by this very loud crashing sound. I was still awake at 4:30 am so I went into the dealership to brush my teeth and take a baby wipe bath. I headed outside to drink one of my breakfast drinks and finished getting ready. I spoke to one of the dealership employees and he commented that they forgot to warn us about the railroad next to the dealership. Apparently a train stops at the same time every morning and the sound we heard was the sound of all of the cars in the train slamming against the coupling of the car in front of it. Since it is rare for someone to be at the dealership at that hour they forgot about it. As I was getting ready to head out I heard an equally loud crash, which was the sound of the train moving again. I was getting ready to head out however I could not find my phone. I spent 20 minutes looking for it and finally realized it had fallen off my seat and was lying on my exhaust. I finally pulled out around 5:30am.
My route through Kansas took me from the eastern edge of the state southwest across most of the state to Dodge City and then due south into Oklahoma on US-283. Passing through Great Bend KS on the way to Dodge City I missed a turn and kept going for about 15 minutes before realizing I was no longer on US-56. I turned around and went back the way I came until I got to the point I should have turned and got back on route, which was 30 minutes I’ll never get back. I got to Dodge City around 5:15pm, 12 hours since I left in the morning. I entered Oklahoma 30 minutes later and stopped for gas in Laverne OK. The trip through Kansas alone took over 12 hours.
In Laverne I met up with a group of riders I had bumped into earlier in the ride so I filled up with gas and took a break and chatted for a few minutes. We pulled out heading due south. I knew I was fairly close to Woodward OK where I have family and Moreland OK where my grandparents were buried. I thought maybe the route I was on passed through the two towns and if I was correct I was considering swinging by my grandparent’s gravesite. Something was drawing me towards them and I wasn’t sure what it was. Alas as we rode on I realized I was on not on the US Route I was thinking of, I was on one that ran parallel but 30-40 miles to the west. I continued on my way and mentally waved to my family as I saw the mileage to Woodward starting to increase. I continued on my way and stopped for gas in Canadian OK where US -60 and US-83 intersected. When I pulled out I took US-83 rather than US-60. Fortunately I had only traveled for 15 minutes before I realized my error and turned around and picked up US-60 where I left it. Again, another 30 minutes lost. I passed through Pampa in the TX panhandle, a town I had passed through about eight or nine years ago when I was working on my National Parks tour. Pampa stood out because it was the first oil field I saw. On both sides of the road there were oil wells laid out in a grid about 100 – 200 feet apart and the entire area stunk like oil. At that time about half were pumping, this time only a handful remained and they were still.
I continued on my way and a few hours later I was starting to think about a place to sleep. Around 11pm I came to a truck stop at the intersection of US-385 and I-40 in Vega TX, about 35 miles west of Amarillo TX. I stopped to use a bathroom and saw several riders settling in for the night on the edge of the parking lot. I considered joining them but decided I would push on and stop closer to midnight. I considered turning back several times however I pushed on, deciding that I did not want to waste the time backtracking. I decided to stop at the next rest area for the night, however I did not come across any. I came to the town of Hereford and as I rode through town I decided this would be a good place to stop, however nothing looked appealing. I passed a Walmart and turned around thinking that would work, however their lot was brightly lit and there really was no out of the way place where I felt I would not be interrupted. I moved on and passed a dimly lit shopping center which had promise and thought that may work if I did not see anything else. A few miles later I came to a Loves truck stop and thought truck stop=food=trucker drivers sleeping=SHOWER! Decision made, I pulled in and found a corner spot where it would be unlikely that I’d be run over. The lot was brightly lit however at that point I didn’t care. I went inside and asked someone working there if it was ok to sleep next to my bike and he said sure. I told him I’d be back in a few hours for a shower and headed outside and set up my cot. I opted to skip the tent as it was nice out and I didn’t want to take the time. I crawled into my sleeping bag around 12:30.
Total miles ridden were 850, not quite the 1000 I was hoping for but it would do.
Leg 2
June 30 – Day 5 of the 2022 Hoka Hey
Hereford TX – Alpine AZ
I woke shortly before 5am and headed inside for a shower, it felt fantastic. I dressed, found something to eat, gassed up, and was on the road around 5:30am. I traveled southwest on US-60 into New Mexico and stopped in Clovis NM for fuel and a break. I continued on and turned onto NM-206 heading due south. The scenery was really cool to an easterner
NM-206 north of Tatum NM
In Tatum I turned west onto US-380, which I had been on in 2015 when I visited the Trinity Site and Lincoln NM (as in the John Wayne Movie Chisum and Billy the Kid). I passed through Roswell and continued on. I stopped in Lincoln and mailed home half of my clothes and resisted the urge to tour the town and take photos. A few miles down the road I turned south on US-54 and rode down to Alamogordo where I picked up US-70 and headed towards Las Cruces. As I traveled down US-70 I saw a typical barbed wire fence running along the road however it had signs indicating the area was under video surveillance. I realized that the White Sands Missile Range was to my right (north)
White Sands Missile Range along US-70 between Alamogordo and Las Cruces NM
I got back on my way and down the road I came across two another riders sitting on the shoulder of the road. I stopped and saw one had broken down. I asked if they needed anything and offered them water but they were good and told me to no need for me to wait. After asking if they were sure several times I moved on. In Las Cruces I turned north and then west on various NM routes until I picked up US-180 near Silver City NM.
Traveling along US-180 in the Gila National Forrest I decided to take a few pictures of the terrain
US-180 near Buckhorn
About 15 miles up the road I came to a rider sitting on the side of the road. I stopped to see if he needed help and he stated he was out of gas. He was one of the riders who I had met earlier and ridden with for an hour or so before we got separated. Before I could say anything another rider pulled up with a gas can strapped to his bike. I found out later that the two riders had never met before. This is what I find great about these rides, the camaraderie and willingness to go out of your way to help other riders.
With a gallon of gas we were on our way and rode to the gas station about 15 miles up the road in Glenwood AZ. We pulled in to see the station was closed, but another one of the riders I had met up with earlier was there and he had asked they leave the pumps on for us. We all filled up and then hung out for a bit. The rider who had run out of gas insisted on paying for all of our fuel and explained this was how he was “paying it forward” for helping him. He asked that we pay it forward to another person in the future.
On our way it got dark and the road got more and more twisty. A light rain started falling and the temperature was dropping due to our increasing elevation. We pulled over on a wide shoulder where some put on rain gear and others added heated gear. We talked about where we’d stop and one of the riders was somewhat familiar with the area and suggested Alpine AZ as a good stopping location. They rest of us said “ok” because we had no idea where we were, and we continued on. I was getting tired and was falling back when we hit the twisty parts, and would catch up on the straight portions. We came to “T” intersection with US-191 and went right. A short distance down the road we realized we were going the wrong way and turned around. At the Intersection of US-180 and 191 we decided to stop there for the night around 1am. We picked our spots and set up our sleeping area. For some reason I chose not to set up my tent, but I did pull out my tarp and put it over me as an added blanket. Over the past few days after my freezing during my first night it did not occur to me to buy a sweatshirt, blanket, or anything that I could use to keep warm even though I spent a night at a Harley Dealer who sold all of the above. That is what being tired does to you. And with that day 5 of the Hoka Hey was over.
Where I slept in Alpine AZ, forgot to get photo with cot set up
Total miles ridden day 5 were 650, a lot less than I had hoped and no idea why it was so low
Total for the leg was 1400.
Leg 2
July 1 – Day 6 of the 2022 Hoka Hey
Alpine AZ – Flagstaff AZ
At some point during the night a few other riders pulled in and decided to sleep on the porch of the gas station/general store. I hadn’t thought of that. I fell back asleep only to be awoken later by a loud bang and saw that a rider had fallen over at the gas pumps. I went to try and help him, but we were unable to lift the bike. One of the other riders got up and lifted the bike off the pumps and the rider moved on. I went back to sleep only to be awoken after 4 hours shivering uncontrollably … again! The error of not buying something to keep me warm still had not occurred to me. Again, I packed up feeling the best way to stay warm was to get back on the bike, so that is what I did.
I packed up and was on the road around 4:30am. One of the other riders had pulled out ahead of me and I was following his taillight, however I was traveling a bit slower than he was in the dark and cold. The road was really twisty in parts, and I thought it would be great to travel in the daylight. Someday I need to come back. About an hour later the lack of sleep was getting to me so I pulled over for a 20-minute break. Refreshed I was back on the road and the sun was starting to come up.
The view was fantastic, so I stopped for a few pictures near Rose Peak
US-191 near Rose Peak
US-191 near Rose Peak
US-191 near Rose Peak
US-191 near Rose Peak
US-191 near Rose Peak
US-191 near Rose Peak
Many riders I know say how great the Tail of the Dragon in NC is, or the Back of the Dragon. In my mind, they do not compare to US-191. Little did I know this road was probably equally famous to those out west, something I’d find out later that morning.
Around the next bend I saw that I was not alone on the road after all
US-191 near Rose Peak
US-191 near Rose Peak
About 10 miles down the road it leveled out and straightened
US-191 north of Morenci
US-191 north of Morenci
US-191 north of Morenci
As I drew near the town of Morenci (I had no idea at the time since I did not have a map in front of me) I came across mines on either side of the road. Really deep mines.
Morenci Copper Mine – Morenci AZ
Morenci Copper Mine – Morenci AZ
Morenci Copper Mine – Morenci AZ
I found out later these were copper mines. I got into the town of Morenci and pulled into a gas station around 8am. I was really tired and went in to get something to drink and eat. I laid down and closed my eyes for a bit and then the 3 riders I had been riding with the day before pulled in. We chatted for a while, and I found out that US-191 was originally named US-666 and the number was changed because people had been stealing the signs. I vaguely remembered hearing that on some show. They also said the road was called the Devils Highway. So, it did have a name, cool. After a few minutes they pulled out. I pulled out a few minutes later, about 30 minutes after I had stopped.
US-191 merged with I-10 so I had a brief run on a highway. And it started raining. I saw I had a turn coming up so I opted to stop and get fuel and something to eat at a truck stop in Willcox AZ at 11am. I got some food and sat at a table to relax for a bit. Two other riders pulled in. One opted to eat and the other opted for a shower. After a few minutes I pulled out, 30 minutes after I had stopped.
A few miles down the road I exited onto US-191. The rain had stopped and the roads were wet. I was making good time and I came over a very slight rise and all of a sudden I was thrown forward and there was nothing but water everywhere. I had run into a 3-4 inch puddle (felt like a lake!) in the middle of the road at 60mph that was not visible until you were almost on it. Somehow the bike stayed up and I slowed down a bit to let my heart come back to normal. With increased vigilance I scanned for more “puddles” and was able to slow down for the rest of them.
I turned right onto AZ-80 rather than enter Mexico (I was that close to the border) and continued on. Near Bisbee AZ I came across a huge mine site and needing a break I pulled into the lot
Lavender Copper Pit near Bisbee AZ
Lavender Copper Pit near Bisbee AZ
Lavender Copper Pit near Bisbee AZ
Lavender Copper Pit near Bisbee AZ
Lavender Copper Pit near Bisbee AZ
Back on the road I continued on AZ-80 and then AZ-83, stopping for a quick break and sending my wife a photo of a cactus plant
AZ-83 near I-10 in AZ
AZ-83 near I-10 in AZ
AZ-83 near I-10 in AZ
I got back on I-10 and headed west for 20 miles or so into Tucson where I left the slab for AZ-86. Seeing a large Saguaro cactus, I had to stop for a quick photo op
Saguaro cactus on AZ-86 west of Tucson AZ
Sun setting on AZ-89 west of Phoenix AZ
Sun setting on AZ-89 west of Phoenix AZ
I continued on into the night hoping to make the next checkpoint. I realized that I’d be getting in very early in the morning and it may be difficult to sleep. I was approaching Flagstaff and thought I’d stop near there. I pulled into a gas station and the attendant was mopping the floor. I went towards what I thought was the bathroom and he jumped in front of me asking where I was going. I told him the bathroom and he said it wasn’t there. I realized it was the office, so I apologized and asked where it was, he said they were closed. I apologized and told him I was sorry and had been on the road for 18 hours and left. I stopped at the next gas station and fueled up, looking for a place to stop for the night. Seeing nothing I decided to continue on and hopefully find a rest stop outside of town. Fortune smiled on me a few miles down the road and I saw a sign for a KOA campground. I pulled in, looked at the list of open tent sites, and picked one right next to the showers. I found my way to my site, set up my tent, crawled into my sleeping back, and fell fast asleep around 2am.
Total miles ridden day 6 were around 780
Total for the leg was 2300.
Leg 2
July 2 – Day 7 of the 2022 Hoka Hey
Flagstaff AZ - Washington UT
I woke around 6am and just could not get in sync. I took my shower and saw the campground had a breakfast cart. I packed up my site and walked over for breakfast. I ordered an omelet with a side of bacon and cup of coffee. I relaxed a bit and finally got on the road around 7:30, about an hour later than I had hoped.
Campsite at a KOA near Flagstaff AZ
Breakfast!!!
Breakfast!!!
I made fairly good time but had to stop quite a bit due to heat. The scenery was great as expected and an hour after leaving I found myself in the Kaibab National Forrest not far from the Grand Canyon. Notice there were not many trees …
Kaibab National Forrest
Kaibab National Forrest
Kaibab National Forrest
Kaibab National Forrest
Kaibab National Forrest
Kaibab National Forrest
Kaibab National Forrest
One of the other riders had lost his son in 2003 at the age of 3. As a way to help cope with the loss he asked fellow riders to take an envelope containing some of his ashes and spread them along the route. I decided that this was as good of a place as any, so I spread his ashes in the Kaibab National Forrest. I took a video of it and was able to share it with him in October. With that done, I was back on the road
I got to the second checkpoint in Utah around 2pm. Checked in, got my route for the second leg, and relaxed in the ac for 45 minutes or so. Bought a quart of oil and added it to the bike and I was off around 3pm.
Route for Leg 2
Total miles ridden were 260
Total for the leg were 2560
Linear Mode
