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  #11  
Old 25th November 2018
John Harper John Harper is offline
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Originally Posted by Lethal View Post
Hmmm I’ve typically found that the filament if broken will only fuse back together once, the next time will be a catastrophic meltdown, but who knows ??
I agree. I doubt it's the bulb. I've replaced the sealed beam unit before, when the original went out, it went out. I'll take a further look after a long ride this morning.

John
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  #12  
Old 25th November 2018
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I would replace the bulb. I've seen this on cars before where the dim goes out and you tap on the light and it works for a few days longer or just until you turn it off. The filament has a thin spot that probably breaks and reconnects itself from vibration. Replacing the light would be MY first move, then if it's still acting up, I'd start tracking down the culprit. "Simple things first"
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  #13  
Old 25th November 2018
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In my early days of riding, 55 years ago, more than once I smacked a headlight to bring it back to life. However, it would be best to do ALL the voltage and resistance checks, as suggested. Then the integrity of the lighting circuit is not in doubt.
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  #14  
Old 25th November 2018
John Harper John Harper is offline
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Well, just got back from an 80 mile ride. Every time I pulled up behind a car at a light, I could see the headlight reflection glowing strong. I worked the dimmer switch a bunch of times before and during my ride. In the absence of any other symptoms, I'm gonna say that the switch contacts may have had some corrosion. I never ride at night and don't use my high beams, so that switch has sat untouched for a long time. Like my horn button, never use it.

I must say, my bike runs like a dream, even after 28 years. I'm so happy I bought a Sportster!!!!

John
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  #15  
Old 26th November 2018
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Great, John, thanks for the feedback.
I rarely used the horn, as I found flashing high beam much more effective...or just twisting the throttle.
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  #16  
Old 5th December 2018
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Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
I rarely used the horn, as I found flashing high beam much more effective...or just twisting the throttle.
I find my middle finger works well, too.

John
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  #17  
Old 5th December 2018
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John, try a contact cleaner like Deoxit. My HD was recommissioned after being left outside under a tarpaulin for several years by the PO.
I got into the habit of cleaning the electrical contacts and earths with Deoxit every six-months or so. Never had an issue since.
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  #18  
Old 6th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Four Speed View Post
John, try a contact cleaner like Deoxit. My HD was recommissioned after being left outside under a tarpaulin for several years by the PO.
I got into the habit of cleaning the electrical contacts and earths with Deoxit every six-months or so. Never had an issue since.
I'll check into getting some, thanks! I see a small squeeze tube on Ebay for $7 shipped. Sounds good.

John
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  #19  
Old 9th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Four Speed View Post
John, try a contact cleaner like Deoxit. My HD was recommissioned after being left outside under a tarpaulin for several years by the PO.
I got into the habit of cleaning the electrical contacts and earths with Deoxit every six-months or so. Never had an issue since.
How does DeoxITcompare to a common contact cleaner?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRC-Contact-Cleaner/999964587

It appears that naphtha and a propellant are the only revealed ingredients. The remaining 3-7% is a trade secret.

http://hosatech.com/wp-content/uploa...-D5S-A_v31.pdf
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  #20  
Old 9th December 2018
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deoxit is a highly recommended cleaner for electronic sliders, pots and controls. it is safe for plastic unlike harsh contact cleaners. it cleans and lubes and prevents further damage. i use it as a first line of defense on old guitars controls with great success. the old pots have a diff sound even though the newer ones have the same value, strange as it seems. my 1950's gretsch corvette has a sound of its own for the old twist days.
is it suitable for all occasions? hummmm, we know that answer.
when i was doing tv,cd and vcr repairs, i used a product developed by the royal brittish navy called stabilant 22 which had two carriers, i used the alcohol base. this stuff is very expensive at 40 bucks for around an ounce but worth it.
it is non conductive in static state but when a current is passed through it, it becomes conductive which enhances the connection.

https://www.wurthusa.com/Chemical-Pr...5-Ml/p/0893622
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