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  #1  
Old 3 Days Ago
Paul.W Paul.W is offline
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Default Sheared Pinion Shaft Key

I was trying to take the pinion nut off my 2000 1200S and I think I sheared the key on the pinion shaft. I had previously taken it off to install a bronze oil pump gear and had used a lot of red loctite and tightened it down to 80 ft/lbs. When I tried to remove it this time I was using a lock tool on the pinion gear and was having to use a cheater bar and a lot of torque and the nut wasn't giving. I felt something give and now the bolt and the rest of the pinion assembly spins, but the pinion gear stays locked in place with the lock tool. So I figure I sheared the key under the pinion gear.

Can anyone tell me what's involved in fixing this and what it's likely to run me. Unfortunately I don't trust any of the shops near me and am trying to figure out a plan to fix my stupid mistake. Thanks for any help.
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Maybe just the key
Use some heat on the nut to break down the lock tite
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Yeah from what I understand you need heat to break red loctite.

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Default

By heat I'm guessing a propane torch would be the way to do that, correct?

Also, the main question I'm asking is what all has to be done to fix a sheared key (once I confirm that is what it is) and roughly how much is that going to cost me?
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Never broke one
Might just tap out with a punch and hammer
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This doesn't help now, but the suggestion is 70 ft/lbs.
You only need to use enough Loctite to cover a couple threads.


The torque is what is holding the nut on the shaft, not the key.
You have to use a torch on the nut to melt the Loctite before using the breaker bar.

Now that the key is sheared, unless there are other unknowns,
You still can't put torque on the shaft against the flywheels.

What if you used the oil pump drive gear?
This gear encompasses most of the pinion shaft key, only a small section of that key is under the pinion gear.
Chances are, the part of the key under the oil pump gear is still intact?
Try pulling the oil pump and clamping the oil pump gear on the shaft (vise grips, other), use a propane torch on the pinion gear nut, not the shaft and try to remove the nut.

edit: You could try to cover all the cam and lifter bores, tape around the shaft bearing and use a dremil tool to cut flats in the oil pump gear (one on each side), then use a big open end wrench on it like you would any bolt. Just gotta make sure not to sling metal dust into the engine.

Personally, I'd cut the nut off the shaft with a Dremil tool with the metal cutting disc.
Cut into the nut on the top, but almost to the shaft leaving a slight bit of the nut not cut.
Then I'd spin the shaft 180 degrees and do the same on that side of the nut.
Then, take a small punch with a hammer (sideways as to not put pressure against the threads) and try to chip one half of the nut off the other half.

Out of curiosity, which type gear locking tool did you use?

How does HammerPerf do it? Might want to give them a call also.
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