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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #1  
Old 2 Days Ago
xlron's Avatar
xlron xlron is offline
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Exclamation Looking for the NUP1009 bearing for clutch wobble

Anybody know where to purchase one besides alibaba? I don’t have broken magnets yet, but was installing some new clutch friction plates and noticed a significant wobble. About 3/16s. Also has anyone used locktite 660 on the splines? 1987 xl 883 with unknown miles parked next to a cornfield after numerous problems benched it so the owner could relive his glory days with every pass of the tractor. I will also do the split bushing thing. Hartin fix? Thanks fellow motorheads.
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XLron. Hi. You need to reduce that play on the basket ASAP! I get about ±0.004"

I am probably to blame for the NUP1009 idea. It originally arose from a discussion with a helpful SKF engineer
- note SKF don't list them. It was a good idea but it is a rare bearing and sadly the market is awash with knock
offs that wear faster than they should. Mine developed play after 6K miles. There are a couple of other possibilities
but the best bearing i have found from an authentic source is the SKF 6009 "explorer." The "explorer" range is a
premium grade from SKF that has an enhanced load rating and dimensional accuracy beyond a standard SKF bearing.
They cost about an extra $3! It keeps the basket play down nicely - about half what you see from a standard SKF.

Plan to check the 6009 bearing at least every couple of years.

Bear in mind that play will also come from the splines if they are worn, and possibly the mainshaft bearing. I strongly
advise you not to use loctite 660 as you may never get the clutch off again. If the spines are part worn the Harton fix
is probably your best option. If the splines are fcuked it might be best to either invest in a new hub or the Scorpion
clutch which comes with a stronger hub. Shim the end float out on the splines so you can just seat the retaining circlip.

I should mention as well that the Zipper trap door also helps stabilise the assemble with a double row angular contact
bearing but it is an expensive piece.
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6009 skf ?
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Thanks for the info 4 speed. I will use that bearing and shim the end play and see what i have. Definitely.. one China manufacturer wanted 250.00 for a nup 1009 plus shipping. I would love to install the scorpion but really need to keep the cost down. I pick them up as junk and put them in good running order as a hobby, and pretty much re sell for what i have in them. Saved 17 since I retired, this is # 18. TMi. Thanks again.
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Glad to help keep these machines on the road.

That makes sense if you are selling it. Also check that the magnets are still glued in place. It is a real pity abut the NUP1009 as it should be a really
stout solution. As I recall only Koyo and NSK listed them yet you can buy "SKF" versions or "any brand you want" - apparently! It opened my eyes to
fake bearings. The 6009 explorer is a price effective compromise, albeit less than half the theoretical strength of the NUP. It is about 15% stronger
than a standard SKF 6009 and is claimed to be more durable because it uses 'cleaner' steel and runs cooler.

If your Sportster has been standing long I would also check the swing arm bearings that seem to suffer more than most. The grounds; Deoxit works
wonders. The other major issue is the oil tank. Check for cracks and that all the rubber mounts are still OK.

Post some pictures when you have time.
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