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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supermotolew View Post
Warmed the coild today readings changed is this dead ?

Cold
3.5ohms side terminals
17.1 k ohms HT side

HOT
3.9- 4 ohms
19.1K OHMS
Sportsterdoc is more versed on the readings, so he needs to see this. Personally I would suspect that the coil is bad from the changing readings, plus they start out higher than he said they would be.
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i agree the resistance is higher which is not good but i would expect to see an open circuit when hot indicating no readable resistance.
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A functional test when heating with the hair dryer may be more definitive. Intermittent operation may be created under load even when it appears relatively OK with no load.

I would heat test it when properly wired up while the engine is cold. See if the same failing symptoms occur immediately or before the engine fully warms up.


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How's your pushrod adjustment? Tight pushrods will get tighter as they heat up and you'll lose all your compression. When cooled down, it's normal again until it gets hot. Easy way to check is to go for a ride and when the motor quits, pull a spark plug wire and see if it will arc when you try to start the motor. If you have spark, it's not ignition related.

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So last night i couldent even get it started anymore i removed a plug and cannot see a spark when grounded on the head. I did get 1 backfire while trying to start and about 20 seconds of idle though maybe its intermitant. Or very weak. Id be intrested if anyone knows anything about those coil numbers i got. I did notice the coil was very slightly warm but i was outside in the cold. After warming with a hairdryer it gave same numbers as my hot test.
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Ok its beat me i think ill save for the uktima kit for sure best price uk i can see is £235 so $300 ish. I cant find an exact manual listed for what i think is the model i need( 53-660 ) but ive seen some utima manuals online that look very simmiler when it arrive will post back regarding timing withought Voes and what map to use.
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My 2 cents worth; I've had best luck buying factory, especially with electrical components.
If you go for a replacement coil steer cleer of made in china/made in taiwan stuff.

I'm not above updating and have a Dyna S in my '71. It's been a set it and forget it change-over from points and condenser.
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Lower than spec resistance on a coil is likely a partial short...that is a section of windings are bypassed, which could reduce coil output.

Higher than spec resistance on a coil can be caused by:
a. Corrosion on an internal connection
b. Poor contact with VOM probes

If a, could reduce coil output

If an open coil, infinite resistance, then no coil output.

To decide if coil and/or ignition module:

1. Verify good voltage to coil primary, typically connected to + side (coil has no polarity, but that side is battery voltage)

2. Disconnect - side to ignition module. Jumper - side to ground. With coil energized, disconnect jumper to ground and there should be a spark to a spark plug (cable connected, prong properly grounded).

If the coil functions, if connections are good, then the ignition module has failed/is failing.
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