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case repair, trans reinforcement

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  #21  
Old 23rd July 2012
bobber58 bobber58 is offline
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I definately need to find someone who can machine one of those rings for my 67 cases. They need some work in that area. What would you recommend for fixing this?
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  #22  
Old 23rd July 2012
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Originally Posted by DirtyCory View Post
... Mick needs to start a sticky with this type of stuff from you so it dont get lost ...
I have been planning on doing this for some time now, but i have been much distracted. I put this one in the transmission section of the Stickys for now, but we do need a new category in the Stickys for this very technical and important type of post. I do wish that i had been keeping better track of these.
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  #23  
Old 23rd July 2012
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Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
I do wish that i had been keeping better track of these.
i can help!!
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  #24  
Old 23rd July 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobber58 View Post
They need some work in that area. What would you recommend for fixing this?
You know, the only real permanent fix for this problem is to make up a 6061 figure-8 shaped piece (or get the replacement ransmission corner casting) , mill out the entire transmission bearing supports area and weld in a stronger replacement, similar to the end-game factory fix. I would not do that to unbroken cases since they are rare and original is always better than "fixed" but since yours are already broken ....
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  #25  
Old 23rd July 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobber58 View Post
I definately need to find someone who can machine one of those rings for my 67 cases. They need some work in that area. What would you recommend for fixing this?
not so bad 58.

of the different kinds of damage this is the easiest to repair and in my opinion resutls in phenominally tuff crankcase. i never seen one fail after what im going to describe. i have personally done this procedure many times. my 60ch 72" is done like this. i hammer the hell out of that bike.

but 1st:
when you weld you WILL get warpage that accompanies that welding.
the more you weld the more warpage you will get.
the underlying cause for this is: as metal changes temperature it changes size.

the temp change in the weld is from molten to room temp.
the temp change in the surrounding parent material is less.
the parent material obviously cant be preheated to molten.
so theres a difference in size change between the welded and the case material.
this is the warpage.

sometimes repairing the warpage is a bigger job than the orig repair.
$$$$$

so getting the countershaft held firm with out excessive welding and the warpage that accompanies it is the least intrusive to your cases and your wallet.

what you got now.


the details
ring 6061-T6 alum
filler rod 4043 alum

the 1.75 case bore will keep the weld away from the lower kicker cover bolt and dowel.
it will also leave a 1/8 wide deck in the case that gives you a set height to work from

this is the finished product


this welding also needs to be done before reshooting bores.


this procedure results in no perceptible warpage at the case parting seams. this cant be said when the case corner is blown apart and a new cast corner piece is welded in.

obviously the outcome is dependent on quality of workmanship.

when doin this work the time is right for making sure your door fits correct too.
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  #26  
Old 23rd July 2012
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i,believe that answer's my question in post #14,that wasn't,addressed. [sometimes repairing the warpage,is a,bigger job than the original repair.] interesting how someone used center punch marks to try,and close the expanded bore. seem's futile,with a,crack that wide.
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  #27  
Old 23rd July 2012
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Quote:
DR DICK: when you weld you WILL get warpage that accompanies that welding
Quote:
brucstoudt: sometimes repairing the warpage,is a,bigger job than the original repair
If I had the room and the machine tools, maybe I would weld stuff...

However, since there're several ways to skin a cat, for meself and most guys with a small garage, this is not an option... I try to keep my tab in hours at my machinist friend Brian to the minimum

... So I will take the non welding route most of the time as far as cases are concerned if welding is not stricktly necessary and can be avoided.

A nicely light press fit helped with stud loctite will go a long way!!! My above mod on my KHK cases was done some 15 years ago at least, hasn't move a yota, suits me fine!!! But then, the crack was minimal and caught in good time before it got worse...

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  #28  
Old 23rd July 2012
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thank's for your reply,patrick. actually i,was quoting,DR DICK.
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  #29  
Old 23rd July 2012
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i.almost forgot. thank's bobber58,for bring that to this thread. appreciate it.
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  #30  
Old 25th July 2012
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I gotta question.

If one were to do this modification with the engine all intact, other than the transmission being out obviously, are there any seals, gaskets, etc. that need to be removed?

Just got to lookin and I saw the shifter oil seal isn't too far from the area being welded. Mine will have additional welding done on the other side where the sprocket cover threads are. How much will the heat affect? Do I remove/replace this seal? Are there any others?
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