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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #21  
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"Should I deduct these figures from the other readings, or get a new multimeter ?"

deducting from your meter reading is fine.
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Thank you oldboy, I will take up your suggestion.

Thank you sungod - That cable was my prime suspect.
I've ordered a new cable.
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To determine where the problem is:
I'm going to disconnect the green wire from the thin post on the solenoid, then momentarily attach a jumper wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the thin post on the solenoid.
If the starter spins, it tells me the ignition switch and/or wires are faulty.
If the starter doesn't spin, the solenoid and/or cable is faulty.
Does this sound logical?
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Default 1974 starter

Vinny if you jump red to green at the starter relay with all the wires correctly connected and the solenoid correctly installed, you should crank the engine. Red wire is battery + and green is supply to small thin terminal on solenoid. Yes there will be an arc.
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"Jump red to green at the starter relay with all the wires correctly connected and the solenoid correctly installed, you should crank the engine."

Jumping red to green wires at the relay did not crank the engine.

My other test was, disconnect the green wire from the thin post on the solenoid, then momentarily attach a jumper wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the thin post on the solenoid.

This also failed to crank the motor.

Again, there is 12.5 volts going into the solenoid (tall fat stud), but with the starter hooked up, only 0.9 volts comes out of the solenoid when activated (short fat stud).

Is it possible my brand new solenoid is at fault ?
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Electrical stuff-brand new does not always mean good.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageVinny View Post

Again, there is 12.5 volts going into the solenoid (tall fat stud), but with the starter hooked up, only 0.9 volts comes out of the solenoid when activated (short fat stud).

Is it possible my brand new solenoid is at fault ?

Yes, it's possible the new solenoid is bad, based on what you've described as happening with your tests.

It's also possible there's a mechanical bind with the plunger or the "shifter lever" or other parts (see the diagram) that's keeping the plunger from pulling all the way in and electrically connecting the long stud to the short stud inside the solenoid.



When you activated the solenoid, did it make a loud "clunk" noise as the plunger pulled in?

.
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Default ironhead 74

Vinny I recall that you had replaced the solenoid several times with similar results. Are you positive the solenoid is properly installed? You ordered a new solenoid to starter wire but maybe remove the existing wire and fully inspect it.
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Good News - I swapped solenoids and now the starter is cranking great !
The faulty one was a "Standard" brand from J&P Cycle.
The one that's on there now and working is an Accel.

Thank you all for your time and patience !
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  #30  
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Solenoids are rebuildable, but it takes a fine hand.

You can buy a kit that has a new copper washer and both big terminals with a new bakelite cover and screws.
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