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  #41  
Old 1 Week Ago
needspeed needspeed is offline
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I know you've had the clutch apart trying to cure the dragging.

So first:
You need to make sure the friction plates are clean and the steel plates are perfectly flat. If they are warped you'll never be able to get it right.

Then, if your clutch hasn't been upgraded to use the spacers over the studs you need to tighten the nuts so the releasing disk meets the 11/32 dimension shown in the 1971 diagram. It can't be less than 5/16. That's a pretty small range.

Next is the cable adjustment.

The adjusting screw is last.

Thick viscosity oil can sometimes make it drag more than thinner oil.

Do you have a manual?

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  #42  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey t View Post
No definitely do not intend on touching it...just maybe take it to a shop and have em do the testing...
It depends on the shop... if they even know what they’re doing.

My advice is to try your compression tester and leakdown on other good running engines that you own. Just to see if the testers are good and your technique is good.

And as the others are saying, now that you’re starting it ok and there are no other “worn engine indicators”, ride the bike and enjoy it.
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  #43  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxeffort View Post
it depends on the shop... If they even know what they’re doing.

My advice is to try your compression tester and leakdown on other good running engines that you own. Just to see if the testers are good and your technique is good.

And as the others are saying, now that you’re starting it ok and there are no other “worn engine indicators”, ride the bike and enjoy it.
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  #44  
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The fact his buddy's leakdown tester came up with equally poor results as his new compression tester that has the valve in the right place makes the possibility of bad gauges unlikely. Possible but unlikely.
And like I've said before, its not rocket science.
The right thing to do here is go run the piss out of it, come back and do the tests again.
The ignorance is bliss because it's not smoking like a mosquito fogger wouldn't sit well with me.
Maybe it goes up 40+ psi from half warm to fully warm. Maybe it doesn't.
The only sure thing is I'd find out and not by taking it to a shop.
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  #45  
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The video appeared to show no really bad problems with the cylinder bores/rings/pistons.

If your cylinder bores are worn it will make a big difference in your compression test readings between hot and cold tests.

That leaves valve seating.

But it is extremely unusual for both cylinders to to be so close together if valves are the problem.

So a bit of a paradox. That may be why there seems to be some controversy over how Micky should proceed.

I DON"T advocate for just pulling down an engine for no good reason.

And we have tools to measure things. If I mic a cylinder bore and it comes out at 3.035, well, that's probably close to what it actually is. I wouldn't buy stick pistons for it.

My only concern is the measuring tools and procedures Micky is performing are a little more complicated than using a ruler.

If this wasn't Micky's first Ironhead and this was an electric start bike no one would care. Just ride it.

But over the years I've bought a number of bikes cheaply from guys who just got sick and tired of hard starting, poor performing bikes.

I would hate to see that happen again.

And over the years Sportsters have been considered "Cheap Bikes" so guys didn't need to worry too much about maintaining them. Many guys will tell you all you need is a hammer and chisel to work on them.
They got chopped into abominations because of this attitude.

This forum is replete with stories of PO's doing horrendous things to these bikes.

I'm just thinking Micky should start out on the right foot with it.
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