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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #1  
Old 21st May 2019
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Default Need help with breakin miles

I'm needing some tips on putting on these breakin miles and keeping off the throttle!
So I'm riding along, accelerate, let off, accelerate some more and I can feel the power. It wants to go and I just want let it rip wot!
The plus side with this 50° weather I suppose is it's easier to keep it cool.
Seriously, I can see where this power and building the motor can sure be addicting.
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Last edited by 60Gunner; 21st May 2019 at 22:46..
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  #2  
Old 21st May 2019
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The weather cools the outside, not the inside.
Patience, patience, patience.......
All you need is 500 miles and Then let her rip.
The absolute hardest thing to do is feel the power and not give her what she wants.

From the Sportsterpedia (after a good hearty XLF discussion),
Generally speaking, main thing is dont over rev it, dont under-rev and lug it and dont overheat it.
An engine is said to be broken in by the first 500 miles by the MoCo but for the first 50 miles, keep speed below 45MPH. For the first 500 miles, vary your speed, avoid steady speed on long distances and keep it under 60 MPH. FSM and Clymer are pretty much in agreement on this paragraph.
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  #3  
Old 21st May 2019
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I've done the first 10 in town riding a Boulevard along the river where there isnt much traffic and i can get on it a little so I can vary the speeds, accelerate, decelerate. 1st thru 3rd gear mainly. 45 - 50mph. That sort of thing. The cooler weather helps when sitting at a light tho. They heat up fast on a 95° day. Plus the cool air on the fins has to help when rolling.
Suppose to be a nice 70° day tomorrow so I'm gonna knock out some miles.
I didn't want go far from home til I knew everything was good.
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  #4  
Old 21st May 2019
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I heat cycled mine in 90's temps.
In my little brain, it took less time for the engine to get back down to ambient temps.
But, that's probably debatable....

I'd find me a good straight away without lights and check out the scenery on purpose.
It helped to put my mind on something else than the "It feels like I should be going faster" syndrome.
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Old 22nd May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
The weather cools the outside, not the inside.
Patience, patience, patience.......
All you need is 500 miles and Then let her rip.
The absolute hardest thing to do is feel the power and not give her what she wants.

From the Sportsterpedia (after a good hearty XLF discussion),
Generally speaking, main thing is dont over rev it, dont under-rev and lug it and dont overheat it.
An engine is said to be broken in by the first 500 miles by the MoCo but for the first 50 miles, keep speed below 45MPH. For the first 500 miles, vary your speed, avoid steady speed on long distances and keep it under 60 MPH. FSM and Clymer are pretty much in agreement on this paragraph.
Where did you come up with that?

From Hammer Performance:
Quote:
Proper break-in is critical to realizing maximum life and performance of your engine kit! We can't stress this enough. Follow these steps to the letter. Ignore any alternative methods you may read about on the internet! ◦Minimizing heat is absolutely essential to successful break-in, and excessive heat will damage your pistons and forever condemn your motor to be a mediocre performer. The reason for this is that neither your rings nor your cylinder bores are perfectly round on initial assembly. Therefore, the rings are actually only making contact with the cylinder walls in a few places. The tension of the rings is concentrated in these places, increasing friction and heat. This condition exists until the rings have a chance to carve the cylinders into their shape. While that process is taking place, however, the rings and the pistons are very vulnerable to damage from excess heat. You can learn more about this phenomena by researching "ring microwelding". It's a very real risk to your engine!
◦The assembly lube you put on the rings and pistons is to help combat ring microwelding. Yes, we know that some shops recommend minimal or even no lube at all to better assist the break-in process. We don't subscribe to that theory. Your rings are at much greater risk of microwelding than they are of failing to seat. They will seat just fine. You need to pay attention to the possibility of damaging them.
◦On your initial start-up, run the engine no longer than 10 seconds. Use a clock with a second hand or a stop watch. Don't guess! Shut it off and allow it to cool completely to room temperature. A little bit of patience now will go a long way to providing you with a strong motor that lasts a long time.
◦For your second heat cycle, run the motor no longer than 20 seconds. Again, time it properly, don't guess. Allow it to cool completely.
◦Repeat these heat and cool cycles with run times of 30 and 40 seconds.
◦You're now ready for your first ride. Keep the rpm's down as much as possible and keep air flowing across the cylinders. Ride it no more than a mile, shut it down, and let it cool completely
◦For your second ride, treat it similarly gently. Keep your rpm's below 3500 and keep air moving across the cylinders. Ride it a couple miles and let it cool completely.
◦For the next 50 miles, do not exceed 3500rpm and avoid using full throttle. Vary your speeds, allowing the engine to pull and then decelerate gradually. This reversal on the rings, from pressure to vacuum, assists in the seating process.
◦For the next 500 miles, stay below 4000rpm, avoid using full throttle, and keep the heat down.
◦Once you're past the 500 mile break-in period, change your oil. During break-in, the rings have carved the cylinders into their shape and the shavings have been captured in the oil, so you want to change the oil to get that stuff out. Use any high quality 20W-50 oil formulated for air-cooled V-Twin engines.
◦Have your bike professionally dyno tuned. Proper tuning is critical to maximum power, long life, and good gas mileage. It makes no sense at all to spend thousands on motor work and then leave power on the table, and put it all at risk, because you didn't spend a couple hundred on a proper dyno tune.
◦You are now ready to enjoy the full power of your new engine kit!
Straight from the owners manual.

Quote:
To allow your engine to wear-in its critical parts, we recommend that you observe the riding rules provided below for the first 800 km (500 mi).

1.During the first 80 km (50 mi) of riding, keep the engine speed below 3000 rpm in any gear. Do not lug the engine by running or accelerating at very low rpm, or by running at high rpm longer than needed for shifting or passing.


2.Up to 800 km (500 mi), vary the engine speed and avoid operating at any steady engine speed for long periods. Engine speed up to 3500 rpm in any gear is permissible.


3.Drive slowly and avoid fast starts at wide open throttle until the engine has warmed up.


4.Avoid lugging the engine by not running the engine at very low speeds in higher gears.


5.Avoid hard braking. Break-in new brakes with moderate use for the first 160 km (100 mi).
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  #6  
Old 22nd May 2019
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I don't think it's very different on a rubbermount, but when I honed the barrels from my XLX and put in new pistons I followed the owners manual and the advise of a Harley mechanic. I think your doing it fine. Just 'play' with it like you do now. Don't over rev it, don't overheat it and certainly don't lug it. You will notice that the more miles you put on it, the higher the idle goes. That's an indication that the engine is breaking-in. An 500 mile oil change is necessary though.
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Old 22nd May 2019
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Big difference between break in of a factory stock engine and a hot rod engine. I adjust the rev limiter accordingly.
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Old 22nd May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLW210 View Post
Where did you come up with that?
Straight from the owners manual.
(after a good hearty XLF discussion),

I didn't want to get all technical (me?).
The op is obviously past the heat cycle stage so I skipped that.
You get 1 chance to heat cycle a new engine until it's a mute point.
He's been out riding so that's no longer applicable.

The whole article is here in the Sportsterpedia.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...general-msr_32
But the actual process is left out for a reason.
There are many ways to break in an engine.
You should rely on your engine builder, parts manufacturer for proper break in.
These instructions are given with a new top end kit.

Different builders/manufacturers have different procedures.
There is no one way to break in an engine and each engine is different.
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Old 22nd May 2019
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Yeah I had heat cycled it already according to Hammer's instructions to the second and done a short half mile ride and then a another short 5 mile after pulling the cam cover. That was cut short with an oil leak. Now its good to go and putting good miles on today!
It's all good and I know where you're coming from Hippy.
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Old 22nd May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLXL View Post
I don't think it's very different on a rubbermount, but when I honed the barrels from my XLX and put in new pistons I followed the owners manual and the advise of a Harley mechanic. I think your doing it fine. Just 'play' with it like you do now. Don't over rev it, don't overheat it and certainly don't lug it. You will notice that the more miles you put on it, the higher the idle goes. That's an indication that the engine is breaking-in. An 500 mile oil change is necessary though.
Exactly and I've already got a filter and 2 cases of my Valvoline vr1 sitting here!

The rev limiter thing was thought of seajay but I have a pretty good feel where I'm at rpm wise without it or a tach.

I was being a smart ass with this thread guys. Sorry!
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