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  #11  
Old 5 Days Ago
shanneba shanneba is offline
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I have the Deltran Battery Tender Plus, 1.5 amp, been working good for the last 15 years.

It is now has a 1.25 amp rating:
Battery Tender® Plus 12V, 1.25A Battery Charger


I also have a Detran 4 amp I use for my car, it is 6V/12V selectable for either flooded/AGM or Lithium batteries.
http://products.batterytender.com/Ch...y-Charger.html

If you forget to connect the maintainer (once a month for a day at minimum) and the battery runs down

The current Sportsters have a 12 Amp hour battery.
A 750 ma will take about 16 hours to charge the battery.
1.25 amp will take about 9 hours.
A 4 amp will take about 3 hours.


Unless you have the Alarm/siren with the secondary battery on your Sportster the 750ma version is all your Sportster should need.
http://products.batterytender.com/Ch...12V-0-75A.html
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Last edited by shanneba; 5 Days Ago at 12:05..
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  #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Folkie View Post
I've used the regular Optіmate III on bikes with and without CAN Bus; works perfectly on both. No need for a different version just because you have CAN Bus.
That's correct, I just found out it only applies for BMW's. They seem to have a Battery Management System which will shut down the charger after 15 minutes when using BMW's socket.

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...09/optiFAQ.pdf

I didn't know that for sure, but thought it was worth mentioning because my bike is without canbus and other extraterrestrial stuff. I do have turn signals though!
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  #13  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jump View Post
Hearing that a charger/maintainer is a must, but not clear on which one is best (number of amps/volts needed, etc.). Also want to keep a small battery booster on me during colder months, just in case I can't plug in. Any recommendations? Currently looking at the NOCO Genius G750, NOCO Genius G1100, Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior, and the Battery Tender 8 Volt. Thoughts? Thanks.

I own the third one you link. The Delran Battery Tender Jr. It’s good for the money. I’ve owned it 3 or 4 years and it works as intended.

I’ve installed a Lithium battery in one of my bikes this year, so I may need to upgrade to a new charger such as the Noco G1100 in your second link. The lithium may stay up all winter, and I’ll take that bike out if we get a warm day... so I might not need it.

The small lithium jump packs seem like a good idea, but I can’t offer any experience with one.
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  #14  
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Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Folkie View Post
I've used the regular Optіmate III on bikes with and without CAN Bus; works perfectly on both. No need for a different version just because you have CAN Bus.
I run pigtails to the battery for the charger so Canbus isn't an issue, even on my BMW with Canbus. BMW Canbus is finicky...

Starting with the Optimate 3+, Optimates have better charge / float routines.
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  #15  
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I've got a Schumacher 1.5 amp maintainer with the pigtail plug wired in to the bike/battery.
I've also got the Schumacher Ship n Shore 2a/10a/15a with Standard/AGM/Gel Cell settings that also goes into maintain mode once fully charged. I use this one once or twice a month for a day in the winter when the battery is inside.
Then there's my Schumacher XC75W with 3a maintain/5a/20a/75a Start mode also with standard/agm/gel. This one is good for bigger car batteries.

Not sure about the best but Schumacher makes a good product.
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  #16  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketmangb View Post
I have the Noco G3500,good piece !
+1, have one and like it a lot for MC and auto use, has charge modes for both plus lithium and repair/desulphate....we also sold Noco chargers to customers when I worked as a generator man and they were reliable.

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  #17  
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Thanks... the HD battery (circa 2015) is reading 333 CCA... figured keeping a maintainer on it full-time is the best bet, but often hear that if a battery starts acting up, replace it immediately. It wasn't started for four days, would not turn the engine over... car battery (engine off) jumped it, ran for twenty minutes, but then would not turn over the next day (unheated garage, October weather, etc.).

Was thumbing through this article for a possible replacement. I also keep hearing that the stock HD batteries are, 'built for the vibration' typical of HD's... is this legit or just a sales pitch?
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I don't know if there built for vibration, never heard that before. I do know that the OEM Harley-Davidson battery is a very good one. I had one last for 7 years on a Dyna. I did use a tender in winter and when I didn't use the bike for >3 weeks. They are pretty expensive though.

-The Yuasa AGM is used in almost every Japanese bike and also a very good battery. You have to fill it yourself, which means it's life starts counting the moment you fill it. It's very easy and can't go wrong. More friendly priced.
-MotoBatt is also a good battery, but I don't like the connectors. It is already filled. That's nice, however you don't know how long it has been on the shelf...I wouldn't buy it on eBay, but at an indy shop.
-I find Lithium-ion batteries are too expensive. In very cold weather you have to turn on your headlight for a few seconds to 'wake it up' before you can start the bike.

My next battery will be a Yuasa, AGM type because of the pricetag, the longevity and it's actual life starts when I fill it with acid.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanneba View Post
Unless you have the Alarm/siren with the secondary battery on your Sportster the 750ma version is all your Sportster should need.
http://products.batterytender.com/Ch...12V-0-75A.html
I do have the alarm system... and it blinks at me... to me it looks like, "I'm taking away your CCA, plug me into a maintainer... or I'll ruin your day"
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  #20  
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I've got 13 years on a stock HD battery according to the date punched on it. May of 06.
It's starting to drop to 85% charge. Fluctuating between 12.6 and 12.7 after sitting for a day tho.
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