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  #21  
Old 25th May 2019
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They call it a breather valve from '04 up. Shaped different, too.
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  #22  
Old 25th May 2019
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Each one consists of a poly fiber wad over a rubber flap all fastened into a little plastic container.
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  #23  
Old 25th May 2019
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I guess i just never called the newer style umbrella valves but breather valves. Sorry for the confusion.
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  #24  
Old 25th May 2019
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Reed valves are arguably more effective, particularly for high flow and revs but they can be noisier.
I found exactly that with my Sportster.
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Old 25th May 2019
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So what are your options as far as replacing these? The whole housing? For $30+ each? Why does everyone that sells them say they are for 07+?
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I believe there was an upgrade in 07 but I thought it would still work for 04-up.
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Ronnies are showing these at $10.49 each.
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Old 1st June 2019
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Sorry for the delay in my update I am currently moving house and job! So I have done a compression test with the engine cold and it looks ok. Did a suck and blow test on the crankcase breather and it opens and closes when it should.






Took it for a 10 mile ride today after cleaning with brake cleaner and the gasket leaks are just the same as in the original images. I have added a video to show the breather smoke

https://youtu.be/Mx1Qv7MjyU8
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Old 2nd June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juzyHD View Post
The smoke is probably moisture in oil which is created by short distances.
+1
Could be.
I was looking at the placement of the external breather.
This is normally pulled into the A/C but this one has a filter on the end and the line is lower than the engine breather in the cam chest.
Then the filter is about baffle high.
I'd bet that low hanging line moistures up with possible oil droplets in it as well.
Once the engine starts, the normal air pressure picks it up into mist and takes it out the filter on the end.

This condition may repeat itself every time the engine shuts down and cools.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportster-92 View Post

So I have done a compression test with the engine cold and it looks ok.

Took it for a 10 mile ride today.... after cleaning with brake cleaner and the gasket leaks are just the same as in the original images.
https://youtu.be/Mx1Qv7MjyU8
As for the gasket leaks, more than normal blowby 'could' be helping to raise the CC pressure plus the breather valve working but slightly not keeping up.
But those numbers didn't jump out at me.
It may just be from age and the gaskets need refreshing.

For future reference, a cold test may reveal some problems but a warm test is suggested.

For the compression test,
Best to do it on a warmed up engine for best results.
Here's the Sportsterpedia page with more info.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...:ref:svcproc20


1. Ride the bike to get the engine up to operating temperature.
2. Disconnect the power to the coil to prevent it from firing.
## The extra two plugs (on dual plug heads) need to remain in place during this test.
## If you can't disconnect power to the coil, ground out all the plug wires.
3. Clean the area around the spark plugs and remove them.
## If you haven't disconnected the coil, you can insert the plugs into the plug wires and press the plugs against the cylinder heads for grounding.
4. Connect the compression gauge to the first cylinder.
5. Make sure the throttle plate (and choke, if present) is fully open before turning over the engine.
## If using a CV carb, hold the slide up.
## If the cylinder can't freely pull in air, the compression reading will be low.
## Do NOT pull the enrichener knob - The enrichener is mis-named a choke but it is not a choke plate.
6. Crank the engine continuously through 5-7 compression strokes. (until there is no further increase in reading at the gauge) 11)
7. Record the readings at the end of the first and last strokes for this cylinder.
8. If you get a lower than normal reading, add app. 1/2 ounce of oil into the cylinder, repeat the compression test to see if the reading will increase.
Record the oil-added readings.
9. Repeat for the second cylinder.

Possible Ring problems:
Compression low on 1st stroke tending to build up on following strokes without reaching normal spec.
Improves considerably with a re-test with oil.

If the oil in the cylinder on the second test improves the readings,
That's your blowby. The more you have, the lower the compression reading will be.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 2nd June 2019 at 01:33..
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Old 2nd June 2019
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I've seen that mist coming from my breather filter a time or two, usually only when engine is hot, just presumed it's moisture burning off the oil etc so don't worry about it.
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