XL883N Iron 2009 Bleeder Valve Broken!

[jsaintmartin]

Hey yall!
This is my first post!
So I was just refilling my brake fluid after replacing my brake line and reverting my master cylinder to stock position, after it had been in chainsikle rearsets. Everything had gone well until I needed to bleed the brakes. When I tried opening the valve with 3/8inch wrench it didnt work so I tried many other things that rounded it off, and finally a 10mm socket worked, except the top broke!
SO now the threaded part is stuck in there, and I need a new bleeder valve. Ive since seen about these speed bleeders, but they dont have iron 883 listed on their reference chart.
I would like any advice on removing the broken valve, as well as thread/valve dimensions so that I can find the appropriate new piece.
My stealer says the piece is obsolete, and im in nyc and the other numbers he gave me are for connecticut. My bike is my only form of transport so I cant exactly go to CT for one anyway.

[Hippysmack]

2009 bleeder screw is 42875-07.
I can't find any reference to that screw online... still looking though.
I did see one reference to a metric thread screw on Drags but it doesn't say what it fits.
Try an easy out thread extractor for the broken piece.
Once out, measure the threads.
If it's metric, you measure from one thread to it's adjacent thread in MM.
Then measure the thread OD and go hunting auto parts stores for something comparable.

edit:
In a pinch and if the broken screw isn't leaking, you can try leaving it alone and bleeding at the banjo bolt instead.
Or see this page in the Sportsterpedia on different ways to bleed the brakes.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ref:wheels06

[Maxeffort]

So the rear caliper has a broken bleeder?

The easiest solution may be to buy a used caliper. About $60 to $70 on eBay.

To get the broken bleeder out, I would try MIG welding a nut to it. Then back it out with the nut. The heat and then cooling help.

Otherwise drill the hole a little bigger and use an screw extractor (easy out)
The problem is that it was already frozen enough to snap off. You may just snap the extractor too.

[Hippysmack]

Would the caliper need to be rebuilt after the heat of the welding?

edit:
See also for Stuck, Frozen and Broken Off Bolts:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ref:tools022

DK has a 10mm banjo blot with a bleeder fitting built in.
https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-spec...prd/272347.sku

Ronnies HD has the bleeder screw. You can order it online here:
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...artsfinder.htm
Scroll down to where it says Harley-Davidson® Motorcycles, click that, search your year model, click on the part number to add to your cart.

If you get a new one, could you post a pic of it?
It's suppose to come with an O-ring.
Be nice if you could also post the thread size.

[Maxeffort]

Originally Posted by Hippysmack

Would the caliper need to be rebuilt after the heat of the welding?

edit:
See also for Stuck, Frozen and Broken Off Bolts:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ref:tools022

DK has a 10mm banjo blot with a bleeder fitting built in.
https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-spec...prd/272347.sku

The heat is localized and quick, it won't hurt the caliper. That's part of why it works, the broke bolt gets hot, expands, then contracts against the cooler casting. (One might protect the rubber from weld splatter).

I deal with many broken bolts. The "weld out" method is among the best. I've removed many hundreds of bolts. Small bolts, sometimes it's best to weld a washer to the broken bolt, then weld a nut to the washer.
Often weld the nut on, then use a small battery impact gun to extract.

Some come easy, some take a few tries.
If a steel bolt completely seized by corrosion to aluminum, it's not coming out without the aluminum threads too.

And X2, I've bled at the brake line banjo or flare nut in a pinch.

And also, there are two piece stripped bleeder repair kits if you really need to save a part.

One of many on YouTube

[Hippysmack]

I think we have probably scared the op off with all this nasty talk.
You could also try pulling the caliper, drilling the center out with a (smaller than thread width) bit and peeling the sides out.
Just make sure to keep the bit straight so it don't go into the female threads in the caliper.
Then the caliper needs to be taken apart to clean the swarf out.

[oldboy]

A local brake and alignment shop near me has a dedicated tool for removing broken bleeders. the cost is reasonable, but you do need to remove and take the caliper to them. The cost is alot less than replacing a caliper.

[Hippysmack]

I sincerely apologize as we have a whole section on Bleeder Screw Issues in the Sportsterpedia I completely forgot about.
It's on the brake bleeding page.
Link: http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...r_screw_issues

I'll consolidate the information in my first link to there.

[rejeanprimeau]

Bolt in aluminum, especially the ones that get hot and cold like a caliper often seize. I always try tapping it head with a shot of hammer to unfreeze it. For bleeder, I use a smaller box that fits the bleeder but not the nut and a 1 pound hammer shot.

After the hammer shot, if it break, I do the flat nut trick TIG welded to the broken piece. The flat washer come out if I don't have one of those flat locking nut.

[Maxeffort]

I was looking to see what a "dedicated broken bleeder tool" is and so far haven't found it.


I'm aware of this tool, but it's for stuck bleeders , not broken off bleeders.



http://https://www.threadtoolsupply....-tool-kit.html