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12th October 2013
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Biker
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 64 Sportster/Buell Model: xl 1200s Sportster/Buell Year: 2003
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why don't you take off 1/16'' where the caliper meets the fork that should bring it over enough without damaging the back of the caliper
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12th October 2013
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XL FORUM LIFE MEMBER
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: MARY Lund, YUK !
Posts: 15,593 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH-1208 Sportster/Buell Year: 1997
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Are you sure it's from a Dyna? I checked nearly every model, and couldn't fund any with a.21" spoked.
The softail standard used a narrowglide, and came with a 21". Rim.
You might need the spacers for the softail...
__________________
States I've Ridden in
71.3 hp 70.8 tq
1208cc 11.09:1 (Wiseco 10° Dome 10.5:1 .010 over) ,Screamin Eagle Dual Plug Heads (10° 61cc), Original SE A/C, Vance & Hines Straight Shots w/ Custom Baffles. SE 6800 ign, Dual BREMBO brakes/ Pirelli Night Dragon MU85-16 Rear - 100/90-19 Front. Progressive Springs & 412 HD 13½" Chrome Shocks, 5½" pullback riser w/ "reddtigger mount", Stebel Nautilus Compact Air horn, Mustang Vintage Super Wide Touring Seat, Alto Carbonite Clutch
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12th October 2013
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Drag Race Champion
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 382 Sportster/Buell Model: 883 Sportster/Buell Year: 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lock
why don't you take off 1/16'' where the caliper meets the fork that should bring it over enough without damaging the back of the caliper
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I thought of that, but was afraid that would move the rotor far enough off center between the brake pads that the one pad would continually rub the rotor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReddTigger
Are you sure it's from a Dyna? I checked nearly every model, and couldn't fund any with a.21" spoked.
The softail standard used a narrowglide, and came with a 21". Rim.
You might need the spacers for the softail...
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That could be the case and the seller just thought it came stock on the bike when he bought it... or just advertised it was dyna because it came off his and was trying to pull a fast one (wouldn't surprise me).
I've got a plan and it should keep the rotor center between the brake pads... hopefully it works. I filed down maybe 1/16" from back of the caliper where the spokes were rubbing. That did the trick for the spokes just clearing the back of the caliper without any weight on the wheel, but I'd be lucky to fit a piece of paper between those spokes and the caliper. I want a little more space without throwing everything off, so the plan is to install a 1/16" brake rotor spacer between the hub and rotor. Then place a 1/16" thick machine washer (I think that's the name... basically a 1/16" spacer) between the fork slider and the stock spacer on the brake side (keeping the original spacer against the bearing).
Above should work as I've watched torquing down the axle nut and I have 1/8" of fork sqeeze that would be getting filled...thereby keeping forks more straight anyways.
It works out in my head, but we'll see when I actually do it - I could be thinking backwards and find out the hard way.
In the meantime if I can find a good deal on a 21" wheel from a sportster ($200) I'll nab that up and sell this one.
ADDITION EDIT: Or...I could use the 1/16" brake rotor spacer, but take Lock's advice and file down 1/16" where the caliper mounts to the slider and keep original spacers as-is.
Last edited by CoffeeGrinder; 12th October 2013 at 06:04..
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