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  #11  
Old 13th June 2018
RussW RussW is offline
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Here's a kit with caliper and bracket, fits 41mm front ends, but this company can probably make the bracket to fit just about anything
http://www.fabkevin.com/shop/parts/b...-caliper-kits/
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2002 Hugger, S&S 1200 conversion, Woods cam,SE ignition/coil, D&D Fat Cat
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  #12  
Old 14th June 2018
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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thank you all for idea's.
I want to keep bike looking stock, just motor and gear box and , Ohlins 14.5" shock custom set up to weight, Race Tech springs & gold valving in stock 39mm forks, custom set up to weight. but want to keep rest of the bike stock. so I'll use the brake pads recommended here & braded brake hose.
where I live ( Australia ) don't use brakes a lot. I ride twists but low traffic volume. also motor am building will have strong engine braking too.
thanks again, safe riding.
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  #13  
Old 14th June 2018
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Diogenes415 Diogenes415 is offline
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The trick is to keep your rotor and pads clean with acetone... not auto parts store brake cleaner or nail polish remover containing acetone since they can contain contaminants depending on the brand. The next in line is making sure your master cylinder and caliper are in tip-top shape...tear them down and clean them at the very least if not replace all seals... also make sure your float pins are clean and lubed. Next up if it's in your budget and you have rubber lines, replace them with braided lines. Next I would usually go down in size on the master cylinder... if you have a 9/16 piston (~14mm) then move down to a master cylinder with a 13mm piston. The lever travel will increase a little but the feel will be far more predictable and you'll probably end up with two-finger if not one-finger brakes (even my stock 2006 XL883C brake with Ferodos is a one finger affair in most traffic situations). Also, look for Ferodo organic pads... very nice pads which I've trusted to haul me from a 140mph back straight into a sharp ~45mph 90° left turn (10a) at Road Atlanta and out-braking my opponents.

I've been a huge fan of single disc brakes and R&Ding them and I'll tell ya, when it comes to road use, even the one Sportster single piston floating caliper can offer many more benefits than running dual disc setups.
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  #14  
Old 14th June 2018
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diogenes415 View Post
The trick is to keep your rotor and pads clean with acetone... not auto parts store brake cleaner or nail polish remover containing acetone since they can contain contaminants depending on the brand. The next in line is making sure your master cylinder and caliper are in tip-top shape...tear them down and clean them at the very least if not replace all seals... also make sure your float pins are clean and lubed. Next up if it's in your budget and you have rubber lines, replace them with braided lines. Next I would usually go down in size on the master cylinder... if you have a 9/16 piston (~14mm) then move down to a master cylinder with a 13mm piston. The lever travel will increase a little but the feel will be far more predictable and you'll probably end up with two-finger if not one-finger brakes (even my stock 2006 XL883C brake with Ferodos is a one finger affair in most traffic situations). Also, look for Ferodo organic pads... very nice pads which I've trusted to haul me from a 140mph back straight into a sharp ~45mph 90° left turn (10a) at Road Atlanta and out-braking my opponents.
I've been a huge fan of single disc brakes and R&Ding them and I'll tell ya, when it comes to road use, even the one Sportster single piston floating caliper can offer many more benefits than running dual disc setups.

Thank's so much for this information!
I'll do all that & look for a 13mm (1/2" ) bore master (more leverage ) & the beaded lines. I have some Acetone, so will clean rotors & pads.
thanks again.
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  #15  
Old 14th June 2018
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Diogenes415 Diogenes415 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
... I'll do all that & look for a 13mm (1/2" ) bore master...
Did you verify that you have a 9/16 master cylinder? Incidentally here's some good info from Michael at Vintage Brake... the dude is a wiz and knows his stuff.

http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
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  #16  
Old 14th June 2018
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diogenes415 View Post
Did you verify that you have a 9/16 master cylinder? Incidentally here's some good info from Michael at Vintage Brake... the dude is a wiz and knows his stuff.

http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
Thank you again!!
I will verify if the master is 9/16 bore on Monday . the bike is at my friends work shop doing engine & gear box, nothing wrong just upgrades as planing on riding it a lot.
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