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Sportster Motorcycle Tires, Wheels, and Brakes Discuss issues with Sportster motorcycle tires, wheels and brakes.

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  #111  
Old 9th April 2020
Blackbenny Blackbenny is offline
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Great write up! I just had to rebuild
My master on a 15. I’m still trying to get all the air out. It’s driving me nuts. The kit I got the cups were way smaller then the ones I pulled out. Do they expand or something? I’ve been trying to bleed for so long I’m wondering if something is wrong. Reverse bled.
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  #112  
Old 9th April 2020
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You need to post some pix. Most this thread is on the 04-12 [I think I got the years correct] underslung rear master cylinder on the Harley rubbermount Sportsters and problems associated with them. Your rear brake system is is entirely different and you should have posted it on a new thread I think. Harley went back to a side mounted master cylinder in 2013 I'm pretty sure because the 04-12 master cylinders had a lot of problems. It's a bit Rube Goldberg for one thing and has too many parts!
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  #113  
Old 9th April 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Yes
Open up the oil tank and press the pedal, if you see a geyser of oil shooting up, yes you have the rubber cup tears problem.
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  #114  
Old 9th April 2020
Blackbenny Blackbenny is offline
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The boot and one cup was thrashed. I rebuilt it. The only thing was the 2 cups were smaller. Same shape tho. I don’t see how the originals even got stuffed in there. It was a harley kit. I checked twice before I installed. I just can’t get this spongy feel out
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  #115  
Old 9th April 2020
Blackbenny Blackbenny is offline
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https://imgur.com/DW0Z6Gy

Last edited by Blackbenny; 9th April 2020 at 16:21.. Reason: Image not showing
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  #116  
Old 9th April 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbenny View Post
The boot and one cup was thrashed. I rebuilt it. The only thing was the 2 cups were smaller. Same shape tho. I don’t see how the originals even got stuffed in there. It was a harley kit. I checked twice before I installed. I just can’t get this spongy feel out
The rear on my 05's is a bear to bleed. I use a mity-vac. Attach it at the bleeder, put grease around bleeder threads to reduce air intake, make sure you are keeping an eye on the MC reservoir to keep it from going dry. With a canister in the mity-vac line, you add vacuum to the bleeder valve, crack it open (but not too far) and watch the clear line to see when the bubbles and watch for them to stop, it takes longer than you may think and you will go through some fluid.

Note: you will get air pulling past the caliper seals, so there will be a stream of very tiny bubbles after you get the real problem ones out. (you can reduce those by closing the bleeder a bit). Stop there by closing the bleeder valve. Top off the MC, and you will be good to go.
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  #117  
Old 9th April 2020
Blackbenny Blackbenny is offline
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I’ve literally got the caliper hanging with a valve on it and it’s still spongy. 0 air now. I’m at a loss. Wonder if there is something wrong with the rebuild.
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  #118  
Old 10th April 2020
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I bled mine the old fashioned way after failing to do so with vacuum. I just pressed the brake pedal, opened the bleeding screw, let the bubbles out, closed the bleeder, repeat. After a while of that I got a nice stiff action on the pedal. It's still that way, years after my original post. The problem with the setup is there is a bunch of line above the bleeder and the air settles in the highest part of the system. Maybe try raising the caliper above that master cylinder and try again. All I know is that mine did not want to bleed the air out using vacuum, but the old fashioned way worked like a charm.
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  #119  
Old 10th April 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vferdman View Post
I bled mine the old fashioned way after failing to do so with vacuum. I just pressed the brake pedal, opened the bleeding screw, let the bubbles out, closed the bleeder, repeat. After a while of that I got a nice stiff action on the pedal. It's still that way, years after my original post. The problem with the setup is there is a bunch of line above the bleeder and the air settles in the highest part of the system. Maybe try raising the caliper above that master cylinder and try again. All I know is that mine did not want to bleed the air out using vacuum, but the old fashioned way worked like a charm.
You are correct in my opinion. The problem does seem to be that hump in the line.

I have to wonder about the difference in size that Blackbenny mentioned.

At this point, I would take the original parts to the dealer and compare them to the kit, and make sure it is the correct kit for the MC on that bike. This can be done without even pulling it apart as long as you still have the take off parts. Usually it's the older ones that look a tad smaller because the lip gets worn off and more conformed to the bore that is smaller than the spread of the new cup lips.
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