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  #21  
Old 6 Days Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
The wisdom that has been gained with longer-term experience is that most riders want 90% good performance all the time, rather than 100% sometimes & 70% the other times...

So my advice, no matter what parts you have, is get that Idle/Transfer right because you'll be using that function most of the time, especially when cruising...

But most riders want something running good in all-around operation... My advice is targetted toward that goal...
Thanks for your patient and well-thought-out response. All of it was very useful, but the parts I highlighted above have got me thinking. I may look to un-do the DynoJet parts at some point when I have time to take the bike off the road.

Do you know if it is possible to go back to the original jets/needle/other parts once you've had a DynoJet kit installed? Or are there permanent changes done that can't be un-done?
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I believe this is the first step to a well functioning carb:
Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
no matter what parts you have, is get that Idle/Transfer right because you'll be using that function most of the time, especially when cruising...
DJ kits generally do not affect absolute Idle - but they do affect the Transfer function, all of the Mid-range & WOT... Of course, user changes to the IMS during DJ kit installs DO affect Idle...

Post#10 lists the DJ changes - UN-Drilling the slide is a problem - Replacing the slide may be the only choice... Everything from DJ (needle, spring, EmTube/Jet) can be replaced with Keihin or CVP parts... It's not like you have to buy another carb to start over...

I suppose it costs about $80 to put it back to Keihin parts... (if you can buy a used CV40 carb for less than that, you still need to consider whether it will have the right needle & jets and maybe still need wearing parts replaced, like seals, float valve, etc.)

Depending how old & how many miles on your carb, you might want to consider doing a thorough refurb... A rebuild kit will replace the float bowl valve (4-sided only), the Accel Pump Diaphragm and the seals/o-rings... You might also want to replace the IMS packing o-ring if it seems brittle/cracked/deformed, the manifold seals (all three), the float bowl screws to allen head to make it easier to service and the intake elbow if your's is plastic...

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