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  #391  
Old 10th August 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotton1 View Post
Need one for a rubber mount. Should be 3/4 and 9 7/8 in length.I think.
I'll measure it sometime this weekend and let you know.

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  #392  
Old 10th August 2018
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Originally Posted by cotton1 View Post
Alrighty. Looks like the axle and wheel bearings for a upgrade will only be about $75 or so from Dennis Kirk. I have looked at the Sportsterpedia but need to revisit it. I dont understand the spacers yet. If I change the axle I will need to change the wheel bearings to match-got it. Same wheel now but with different size axle. Is the difference in the spacers the ID or the lengths too?

Other questions : Is there a particular year or MoCo part number caliper to look for? Or is any big twin after 08 going to work?



Will my current 98 rotor still work or will I need one of those too?

Thinking about throwing in the towel on the AMF rim- the helicoil kit is $50 and the rim has already been drilled about half way. I'm thinking about saving my $50 and using that towards a different 18in rim. Plan to put the 16 back on for now until I get this front end figured out.

Cotton1

only touring bikes and Vrods had the brembo calipers.

you're gonna need a wheel that will accept sealed bearings and the diameter of the inner hub of the rotor are different from sealed and non sealed bearings. I just found a wheel from a 2000+ and everything worked out easy peasy..

rotor is from brembo package (upgraded chrome free floater)
did I miss, which lowers are you using ? this is for the 2000 and up right ?
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  #393  
Old 10th August 2018
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The internal spacers set the end play for the axle bearings. You can use a straight edge on the land for one bearing and measure to the land for the other bearing with a depth mike or the slip end of a dial calliper. That gives you the distance from inside one bearing to inside the other bearing. Add the end play recommended and you have the internal spacer length. If zero end play recommended the spacer is the same as the measurement.
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  #394  
Old 10th August 2018
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Originally Posted by ReddTigger View Post
only touring bikes and Vrods had the brembo calipers.

you're gonna need a wheel that will accept sealed bearings and the diameter of the inner hub of the rotor are different from sealed and non sealed bearings. I just found a wheel from a 2000+ and everything worked out easy peasy..

rotor is from brembo package (upgraded chrome free floater)
did I miss, which lowers are you using ? this is for the 2000 and up right ?
Yeah, my lowers were on my 06 when I got it. I bought a set of used fork legs and built those for it.

Gotta look for a new wheel now. Hope that won't be too expensive.

Cotton1

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  #395  
Old 14th August 2018
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After a few nights at work to mull over this brake upgrade I have decided not to do it right now. The cost will set me back quite a bit on the project. I really want to do the dual disc/ Brembos on my 06 anyways. Maybe something I will get around to next year.

So when I get some time to do it I will tear the current front end down, polish up the factory lowers and install my parts on hand. They are: 29inch down tubes, new 9 inch dampers, all new bushings and seals, Intiminators and straight rate Race Tech springs, 5w Amsoil fork oil. All of that will be going on the 3degree raked HHI triples.

The money I dont spend on the brake upgrade is needed for another part of this project, which is Softail forward controls. I have some on my radar just need to save a little more cash to purchase. I already have the adapters here and ready to go. The Softail forwards will allow me to take the sprocket cover off for the chain conversion and give a cleaner look I hope. I plan to chop the timing cover too.

I am going to try to find a better price on a heli coil kit for the rear AMF rim. I want to give that a shot before buying another rim. I had originally planned on using the 16inch stock rear rim and may yet. I did find some brand new old stock AMF era Morris style rims that I may spring for. They are 18 rear (exactly like the one I have, cept brand new) and the front is 19inch but narrow like a spooler. The front is 2.15 I think. It just seems to me that the 18 inch rear will go with the rake and eventual stretch I will have once I get the hard tail on. The factory 16 might be fine if I replace the 21 on front with the 19. I just dont want to scrub the ground all the time.

No time to wrench even though I am off work today and tomorrow. My farm work gets priority right now, so maybe next week at best for progress here.

To all who have given me or offered me parts lately: THANK YOU!! It means a lot to me. When I get done (if I ever do get done) you all will be riding with me in my mind. That goes for parts and advice steering me in the right direction.

Cotton1
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  #396  
Old 15th August 2018
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Yesterday was good to me. My farm truck blew a brake light bulb which led me to the parts store. Said parts store also had a heli coil for $29. I got it.

I found a little time between hay.. letting it cure you know..to install the thread repair. Drill bit was too big for my 18v, so I went Amish on it with the hand drill.

Baby steps. Might try to figure out the external spacers while I wait for the dew to dry up.

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  #397  
Old 15th August 2018
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There is a wheel looks like that leaning on the back wall of my shop. I think it is off a 2001.
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  #398  
Old 15th August 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graywolf View Post
There is a wheel looks like that leaning on the back wall of my shop. I think it is off a 2001.
Recent investigation on the net and here on XLF indicates this one was original to a 1979 Sporty. I am now trying to figure out how to tell if I will need to space the drive sprocket out or not and what length spacers I will need to put this on my EVO. No results yet for converting a EVO to a Iron Head rim, but read somewhere on XLF that I may need to space the sprocket out. Cant find that one again now

Next time you happen by that one on your wall see what the PN number on it is. The rim I have has a PN on it that converts to a different number on Ronnies microphiche. In all of this I found out that wheel bearings to fit this rim fit the 98 too.

Cotton1
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  #399  
Old 15th August 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotton1 View Post
Recent investigation on the net and here on XLF indicates this one was original to a 1979 Sporty. I am now trying to figure out how to tell if I will need to space the drive sprocket out or not and what length spacers I will need to put this on my EVO. No results yet for converting a EVO to a Iron Head rim, but read somewhere on XLF that I may need to space the sprocket out. Cant find that one again now

Next time you happen by that one on your wall see what the PN number on it is. The rim I have has a PN on it that converts to a different number on Ronnies microphiche. In all of this I found out that wheel bearings to fit this rim fit the 98 too.

Cotton1
It is an 01 wheel and it has the sealed bearings. I looked and the other extra wheel is back on the front of the 1998. That was the only other non-sealed bearing wheel I had. The wheel leaning on the shop wall is not exactly like that one. It doesn't have the same center clip in bearing holder. It has stock sealed bearings. The rest of the wheel looks the same with the cast spokes and all. It came off one of the 2001 frames I have.
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  #400  
Old 24th August 2018
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My new Morris front mag rim. It's a 2.15 x 19, and matches the rear 18 inch pretty good.

I need to find out what kind of rotor will bolt on this front rim. Looks like the bolt holes are more spread out than the 98's.

The rim was in it's original AMF box when it arrived here. The HD paperwork inside says it fits a 74-77 XLH or XLCH.

I tried Ronnie's microphishe, but it stopped at 79 I think.

Anybody put one of these on a EVO with some insight for me?

Cotton1

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