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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
chris16371 chris16371 is offline
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Default Issue until up to temp

Pull enricher and let it run for a few while I pack saddlebags and gear up, push enricher back in and the idle sounds just a bit off. When I take off it spits and sputters with sometimes a pop until RPMs are 3000+ and seems to be fine once I hit 3rd gear and no loss of power then. I come to first stop sign and stop, idles fine but when I take off same thing. Almost like it's missing. Once the bike is to operating temperature I have zero issues, it's like nothing was wrong in the first place. I can go get back on bike 3 hrs later and the issue starts all over again but if I go ride in 1-1.5 hrs again it runs fine. Just looking for some help, thanks!

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per your instruction manual. you're not supposed to allow the bike to idle more then 30 seconds. doing so creates issues ...

pull out enricher and ride bike for 1 minute (over 50 degrees f) or 3 minutes (under 50 degrees F) and then push back in.. continue riding. if bike feels like it stumbles or misses pull out enricher for another minute..

i've been doing it this way for years.. and my bikes can handle 12° mornings this way
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common things to check would be battery cables and also connector from pickup in nose cone to ignition
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chris16371 chris16371 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReddTigger View Post
per your instruction manual. you're not supposed to allow the bike to idle more then 30 seconds. doing so creates issues ...

pull out enricher and ride bike for 1 minute (over 50 degrees f) or 3 minutes (under 50 degrees F) and then push back in.. continue riding. if bike feels like it stumbles or misses pull out enricher for another minute..

i've been doing it this way for years.. and my bikes can handle 12° mornings this way
Stumbles with enricher out, one of the first things I've tried multiple times. Thanks for letting me know how I should start. I usually just get on and go but for the past couple weeks I thought it made since to start bike while gearing up and push enricher back in after a minute and let it idle but I guess I was wrong.

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good known plugs and wires. and quality gas..
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Originally Posted by ReddTigger View Post
good known plugs and wires. and quality gas..
I have Moroso Blue Max wires and only run gas without ethanol. Maybe it's bc I was warming up wrong but I'll check the other things you mentioned, I just checked the battery cables yesterday morning so they are good and tight.

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Are we overlooking the obvious? This sounds like a dirty pilot circuit.

I think I am understanding that the bike doesn't want to run well below 2 or 3 grand? Seems to take forever to warm up, but seems better after an hour or so riding it?

At this point you need someone familiar with your carb. What kind of carb is it? I would start with a good cleaning, with close attention to the pilot jet and intermediate ports served by that jet. Since it ran good in the past (assumption), you don't want to change any jet sizes, just get it clean. Make sure you can spray carb cleaner through every passage and the air bleeds. If it has a CV carb, then make sure the diaphragm is working (not leaking).
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chris16371 chris16371 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Are we overlooking the obvious? This sounds like a dirty pilot circuit.

I think I am understanding that the bike doesn't want to run well below 2 or 3 grand? Seems to take forever to warm up, but seems better after an hour or so riding it?

At this point you need someone familiar with your carb. What kind of carb is it? I would start with a good cleaning, with close attention to the pilot jet and intermediate ports served by that jet. Since it ran good in the past (assumption), you don't want to change any jet sizes, just get it clean. Make sure you can spray carb cleaner through every passage and the air bleeds. If it has a CV carb, then make sure the diaphragm is working (not leaking).
After 5-10 minutes of riding the bike runs fine from there on out. Come back an hr or so later still runs fine. 3hrs+ later back to idling just not quite right and sputtering takeoffs, after 5-10 mins it's fine again. Running rough below 2-3 grand is only in first and second, third and up no problem but again after 5-10 mins it runs fine in any gear and any RPM range.

Carb was cleaned twice this year, once in the spring and once a few weeks ago after I changed the plastic fuel inlet with a CVP brass inlet. I wanted to make sure no brass shavings from tapping and removing the old fuel inlet got into carb, of course this doesn't mean something else didn't get in there since then. I went on vacation to OBX last week for a week and did have something similar happen once at takeoff but straighted right out, came back and started acting up every cold start.

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chris16371 chris16371 is offline
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I'm going to clean the carb again and do a few other checks now to see if it fixes my issue. I know it's recommended to blow out the jets and passages with an air compressor, what's a good pressure to set the compressor at so it doesn't damage anything in the carb or is that not a worry?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris16371 View Post
I'm going to clean the carb again and do a few other checks now to see if it fixes my issue. I know it's recommended to blow out the jets and passages with an air compressor, what's a good pressure to set the compressor at so it doesn't damage anything in the carb or is that not a worry?

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As long as the carb is torn down and you aren't blowing into the float needle with the float still in place, I use just over 100# That's what my compressor puts out, and I don't choke it down unless I have too.

A can of spray cleaner to spray through all the small passages is helpful too. It gives a visual as to weather the passage flows nicely. I avoid wire, but if necessary I will use that too.

Is this a Keihin CV? If so, remember that the pilot screw adjusts only the idle port. The pilot jet feeds that idle port, but also (5) more ports in a diamond shape just past the (idle port where the screw tip sticks out into the bore). So count the turns, and remove the idle screw and make sure that passage is clean and that the "off idle" holes are not blocked.

I assume you are removing the jets and the associated emulsion tubes when you clean things? The emulsion tubes need cleaning just like the jets do, they have a series of air bleed holes around them that need to be clean.

The idle screw has not only the spring behind it, but it also has a small washer and O-ring. Make sure those are all there upon assembly. I'm not sure what carb you have, but if it is a CV, this is spot on information. Other carbs will have similar circuits, but may not match exactly what I am saying.
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