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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #11  
Old 28th May 2007
groovemeisterus's Avatar
groovemeisterus groovemeisterus is offline
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Talking Thanks...

On my VOES it is surrounded by metal. UNless I can take the whole
metal off the VOES, then i'll have to hack saw the tip to get to the
adjustment screw. Thanks for the extra info. I'll take
a look and see If I don't need to cut. Examine if you will my
VOES and take a closer look.

Thanks again.
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  #12  
Old 28th May 2007
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To try and answer your second question; the engine set-up and weight of bike and weight of rider. To help explain you need to be aware of the following, the heavier the combined weight of the bike and rider the more throttle you have to give it to leave the lights (think of the difference when you have a passenger) and this can effect the vacuum at that point which as Horse explained “may give a false reading”.

Then you have to consider the new compression ratio, which can also affect the vacuum at that point, which as Horse explained “may give a false reading”.

Just because john doe and his mates have their VOES set at 5.5 doesn’t mean that the VOES is working at it’s best, but it may have stoped or reduced the detonation and that is better than what it probably was like before they did the adjustment.

If you want to get the last bit of performance out of your bike after spending hours on the conversion and lots of $$$ then you can adjust the VOES to change the curves at the best possible time for your engine set-up and weight of bike and weight of rider and the LED light method is the best method that I am aware of.
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  #13  
Old 28th May 2007
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Question Gonna start asking more detailed questions...


Since the most likely candidate for this so far from I hear is Compression?
Then what does that have to do with air intake since that is how the
VOES is used? I'm starting to see a relationship compared to the volume
of the cylinder on the intake stroke instead of compression? Would
that better explain since the VOES vacuum is connected to the carb... for air intake... compared to when the intake valve closes and the piston moves upward for the compression stroke... "after" the air has flowed thru the
carb?

Sorry so detailed.
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  #14  
Old 28th May 2007
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“Since the most likely candidate for this so far from I hear is Compression? Then what does that have to do with air intake since that is how the
VOES is used?”

Yes the VOES works off the air intake. The relationship between compression and air intake and the VOES is as follows;

1. There are two timing curves programmed into the ignition module.

2. One can be referred to as the normal curve and the other can be referred to as the aggressive curve.

3. The normal curve is used while cruising and accelerating slowly

4. The aggressive curve is used while under acceleration.

5. When you increase the compression of an engine this increase of compression can cause detonation/pinging.

The VOES aids in the prevention of detonation caused by an increase of engine compression by changing the timing curve of the ignition module at an optimum point.

Say you are at cruising speed (the normal curve is being used) and then you suddenly accelerate. The ignition module needs to change to the aggressive curve so as to allow the engine to produce the best performance but if the ignition module changes too soon or too late, two things can happen, you may not get the best possible performance/power and the engine may detonate.


Quote:
Originally Posted by groovemeisterus View Post

Since the most likely candidate for this so far from I hear is Compression?
Then what does that have to do with air intake since that is how the
VOES is used? I'm starting to see a relationship compared to the volume
of the cylinder on the intake stroke instead of compression? Would
that better explain since the VOES vacuum is connected to the carb... for air intake... compared to when the intake valve closes and the piston moves upward for the compression stroke... "after" the air has flowed thru the
carb?

Sorry so detailed.
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  #15  
Old 28th May 2007
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Just to clear something up. The VOES unit doesn't work off the intake directly, it works off the Vacuum generated at the intake manifold. Think MAP on a car, though it's a much simpler system. Like an on/off switch, once the proper vacuum pressure is achieved, the switch goes on, you get advanced curve, vacuum drops at the manifold, switch goes off, normal curve.
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  #16  
Old 28th May 2007
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Groove -

Here's a pic:

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  #17  
Old 29th May 2007
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Lightbulb Some how only a portion of the pict was there...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shamdog View Post
Groove -

Here's a pic:

Some how the image didn't all the way load. Looked like the whole pict
was there... but the latter part is brown like an error occured.

Thanks.

Is this the same mklsportster person that did a write up on his conversion?
I think I rember seeing something during a web search that led me to you
write up or something... but forgot the location... and what I was searching for.
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  #18  
Old 29th May 2007
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Lightbulb Thanks...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Horse View Post
Just to clear something up. The VOES unit doesn't work off the intake directly, it works off the Vacuum generated at the intake manifold. Think MAP on a car, though it's a much simpler system. Like an on/off switch, once the proper vacuum pressure is achieved, the switch goes on, you get advanced curve, vacuum drops at the manifold, switch goes off, normal curve.
Thanks for the edited photo location with pointer. On my VOES 2000 model year I looks like i'll have to either remove the whole metal peice our use a hack saw to get past the metal cover to get to the silicone and the adjustment
screw.

On a side note... how far or how much room is there if I need to remove some metal from the cover? 1/4" or more closer to the edge? I wouldn't want to cut thru the adjustment screw while cutting at the wrong spot.

Thanks.
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  #19  
Old 29th May 2007
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Talking mlksportster...

Quote:
Originally Posted by groovemeisterus View Post
Some how the image didn't all the way load. Looked like the whole pict
was there... but the latter part is brown like an error occured.

Thanks.

Is this the same mklsportster person that did a write up on his conversion?
I think I rember seeing something during a web search that led me to you
write up or something... but forgot the location... and what I was searching for.
I noticed your site I seen before from your pict link... and noticed
on your web site that the pict is also the same error. Could be my browser
but I doubt that. You might want to re-check your pict and see if it loads
fully intact.

I so far haven't noticed any pings detonation etc so far. A basic 883-1250
updagrade all else being stock except for SE HSR 42mm carb, SE 07 air cleaner like the force winder... and vance and hines straight shots exhaust.

Do I still need to perforem this mod? Or do I only need to perform this mod
if I notice pinging etc?

I came upon some jap bikes at a stop light and I blew them away till
the next stop light. Could be bike or rider experience... but with 1250 and my first impromptu stop light race... I asked him to get it on so I could
see diff from stock 883.

He might have got me in the LONG run... but I got him in the SHORT run.

Even though I here no pinging etc... should I still perform this mod?

Thanks for any advice or experience.
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  #20  
Old 29th May 2007
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You can't always hear detonation. The best way to tell is to pull the plugs. Black specs like pepper means detonation, silver specs means nasty detonation.
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