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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #11  
Old 26th May 2019
t120r t120r is offline
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Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll stick with my HSR42. Maybe over the winter I'll switch to another carb if I need to.
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  #12  
Old 13th June 2019
t120r t120r is offline
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Any suggestions on a baseline jet setup that I can use for initial startup. I have a wideband already and will fine tune.
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  #13  
Old 13th June 2019
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I thought the same thing with the CV being under 100hp. Boy was I wrong. I would've taken Rocketman's advice and gone with a 45 or 48 had I not gotten a good buy on the 42.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 13th June 2019 at 06:56..
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  #14  
Old 6th September 2019
t120r t120r is offline
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So this HSR42 has a #96 needle on the 3rd ring, #30 pilot jet and a 165 main jet. I did the first portion of the hammer break-in. Next is the 50 mile ride, under 3500rpm. Going to be torture.
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  #15  
Old 6th September 2019
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I think you will need a larger main jet.
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  #16  
Old 6th September 2019
t120r t120r is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seajay View Post
I think you will need a larger main jet.
Oh I'm sure it will all be adjusted. Gotta start somewhere though. I have a wideband on my bike, so I'll see what it needs.
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  #17  
Old 6th September 2019
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Nevermind Tomcat. He doesn't think you can have have max HP and a good running motor. Thats why he runs 551s. Yet he's telling you your cams and porting aren't good for power.
Rocketman lives on a dyno and knows what he's talking about.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 6th September 2019 at 18:23..
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  #18  
Old 6th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKB View Post
A smaller carb will give good throttle response in the lower ranges, but will fall off when it reaches it's maximum flow limit. A too large carb will stumble at lower rpm if it's given too much throttle, but will allow higher top end.
Exactly. In my opinion, I always work from the smaller carburetor with smaller high speed runners in the intake and smaller valves. It makes for a nice crisp running bike, and that's what most of us really want. Big numbers on a dyno don't address rideability. Naturally we don't want to loose the top end either, so basically the smallest carb that can handle the top end is going to be a great street bike if it's set up right.
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  #19  
Old 6th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seajay View Post
I think you will need a larger main jet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t120r View Post
Oh I'm sure it will all be adjusted. Gotta start somewhere though. I have a wideband on my bike, so I'll see what it needs.
You should start with a huge main jet. You could leave the main jet on the bench and still tune the low to mid range. If you start with a main jet that is too small, you will choke off your ability to tune the low end and mid range. It will give you nothing but false readings and frustration.

The main jet is mostly a top end limiter, so at this stage, don't limit yourself. Once the mid range on down is good, then test the main jet and lower it in size a bit.

I learned this from years of dirt bike repair. There were a few times when someone complained that the top end was flat, and the rest was great. I found the main jet sitting in the bottom of the float bowl on those occasions. They vibrated out, and the only effect was the top end sucked. George tested me on this and removed his main jet then took a ride around San Bernardino. He found that the bike was fine up to about 80 MPH, then it fell flat on it's face. If he had just stayed below 80, he could still be riding it that way today.

On a 1250 kit with 30 degree squish, I worked on a bike that had a 165 main in it. We worked on the mid range and the symptoms were strange. The bike just fell flat at about 4500 RPM (felt like rich actually). Then once I saw what the main jet was we bumped it way up to a 190 I think. That woke the beast up fast quick and in a hurry. It caught me by surprise and I almost missed the driveway.
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  #20  
Old 6th September 2019
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Exactly. In my opinion, I always work from the smaller carburetor with smaller high speed runners in the intake and smaller valves. It makes for a nice crisp running bike, and that's what most of us really want. Big numbers on a dyno don't address rideability. Naturally we don't want to loose the top end either, so basically the smallest carb that can handle the top end is going to be a great street bike if it's set up right.
Yep. And when you already have an HSR42 why not try it before spending $$$ on a larger carb? If the 42 doesn't do what you want you can always go bigger later.
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