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  #1  
Old 26th October 2021
alsfarms alsfarms is offline
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Default 1975 Sportster

I am new to this forum but have owned my Sportster since about 1985. It only had 1800 miles on it but had the typical modifications done when the bike was new that included: extended pull back handlebars, 6" over front fork tubes and a bobbed front fender. My current plans are to put back a stock barley corn style handlebar, replace the bobbed front fender with stock and replace the 6" over fork tubes with stock. I have all of those stock pieces and plan to have my Sporty back on the road, in stock form, by next spring. I am leaving the drag pipes on and a nicer two place seat so my wife will ride with me just a little bit. Sadly, I have learned that no modern H-D dealer will work on these older bikes, that chaps me a bit! Who can share "does and don't does" when it comes to changing the 6" over fork tubes for the stock items? I would also really like to spend time and re-engineer/repair the clutch lever and and assembly to reduce the finger pull required to make the clutch nicer to operate. Lastly, this bike has been the single funnest investment I have ever made other than marrying my wife!
Al in Ut
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  #2  
Old 27th October 2021
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bplinson bplinson is offline
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Old 27th October 2021
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Old 27th October 2021
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Welcome to the forum Al.
You should be able to get every question you have about your sporty answered here on the forum and then there is Sportsterpedia.com for quick reference info.
Enjoy.
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Old 27th October 2021
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  #6  
Old 28th October 2021
IronHeadRon IronHeadRon is offline
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So it has an original frame and 6 over forks?! Wild. My guess would be going to stock will vastly improve your ride. I'm on a jammer rigid frame, so anything under 8 over is "wheelie over speed bump" territory (most social environments don't like that guy lol, but my street will applaud you and ask for a burn-out)


Ours' PO had 10 over, just going to 8 makes a world if difference. Are you sure your frame is original and un modified? If you have some rake you'll be wheeling over bb's with stock

Only good way I know to extend forks is to change frame, anything else will be difficult to control. It sounds like you have a solid plan if, again, I am picturing the bike correctly.

I'm a lurker, just made my welcome post but have been reading for years. Remember the mantra, first tool bought for any ride should be a manual, especially useful going stock.

Nice to meet another Ironhead wrench, they'll outlives all if we treat them right! Good day brother, keep the rubber on the road (and get your trees 6" closer to it asap lol)

Edit for the q's
Switching first is a sinch, I mean pinch bolt w/ a hex key. The issues come lower, but if you get a stock front end it is literally designed to bolt on. I think you'll be fine. I've got tips for the sleeves and spring to but I doubt you'll be buying pre leaky or worn out forks. I think you"ll get through it with ease and a jack of almost any kind on the frame, not the case (but a lift would be sweet), a jack on the kickstand helps for one man jobs

I like my dry clutch, the only way it'll soften up though is if it's already adjusted too tight somewhere. Otherwise, I think it's a learn to live with kinda thing. You can change where engagement starts, and you can check the spec (3/16 - >9/64 iirc from spring plate to inner hub) and try to loosen them but if it slips in 4th you've gone to far. Lots do wet clutch conversion, idk why but I'm sure there's many pages about it. I know dry clutches release quicker and supposedly handle more torque w/out slipping so I choose to love it , plus its expensive to leave it!
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Old 28th October 2021
alsfarms alsfarms is offline
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Here is a couple of quick comments. My 1975 Sporty has had no modifications to the frame to support the 6" over fork tubes. I rode the bike that way for several years and did not enjoy the eSy rider look or feel. I have purchased a pair of correct stock length fork tubes to replace the 6" over items. Does anyone want a pair of 6" over tubes? I do not want to replace the dry clutch with a wet clutch.I like the way it grabs and releases, just not the finger pull to release. I am going to study the internal linkage an see if a change in the leverage points could help lighten the finger pull to release. Al
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Old 28th October 2021
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  #9  
Old 28th October 2021
shanneba shanneba is offline
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Welcome to the forums from Indiana!
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  #10  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
IronHeadRon IronHeadRon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alsfarms View Post
..... I do not want to replace the dry clutch with a wet clutch.I like the way it grabs and releases, just not the finger pull to release. I am going to study the internal linkage an see if a change in the leverage points could help lighten the finger pull to release.
I agree with sticking with it +1 brother, I'd like if I was still doing spybook. Hope I am not annoying you, I just read my other answer and forgot I said most if this. But I believe it's better described here. Without modification there are three adjustment points (maybe more but anything on cable or lever can be thought of as one). Anyways, here's what I wrote before re-readong my last post

So any on cable attachments will only control starting point (you want and 1/8" of slack or so but not much more, as you need most of the travel)
The adjustment screw and nut on right may reduce tension, but make sure you still disengage
The springs inside the hub are the only other way, loosening them will loosen tension but again, not to the point where disengagement can't occur.

It is worth noting with new plates and cable ours relaxed on its own. Upon first install I felt like I was going to snap something at the point where I barely got any slip. After a year of doing nothing to the clutch it relaxed slot and now has a nice firm but easy feel and I was able to turn in the screw to get better disengagement with no side effects.

And again, great bike. If the speedo is moved you have a stronger case than I and even if it ain't; there ain't nothing like an ironhead!

EDIT just got an idea, if you weld or do machine work a longer arm on the worm lever would give you more leverage. The only harm would be reduced travel (which could mess up disengagement, so there is a limit). Again, I think it should ease up with some riding and even just sitting under it's natural tension. But either way it's almost always good to open it up and see for yourself . The kicker can be a pita, but after that it's smooth sailing. On the other side just have something for the oil but it's all bolts and we'll described in the manual.
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