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Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Top End issues. Rockerboxes, Valves, Cylinders, Pistons, Rings, Lift Rods, etc...

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Tags
lube, piston rings, rebuild, seized, valves

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  #1  
Old 4th July 2021
groovemeisterus's Avatar
groovemeisterus groovemeisterus is offline
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Question Just rebuilt low and top end, and it ran, then pistons stuck at bottom ?

I finished taking my sweet time on rebuilding my engine from when my oil pump seized from worm gear pot metal coming apart.

Bad weekend.

After lubing everything when putting back together, then having to change to some new gas, it was running, made sure oil was pumping back in tank, etc. Then motor stopped, took a minute to put in 5th gear and remove plugs to rotate engine cause seemed seized up. New rings, and pistons and new refreshed heads.

Started again, but made a sound that could have been a reflection since was using my jeep to jump start it and weird angle.

Took plugs out again and pistons are at the bottom on cylinder. something is caught on something.

Could new rings be causing issues ? I sure hope I didn't bend a valve. I have a wireless borescope coming for $25 from amazon to look into cylinder for any piston to valve, and or scrapes on cylinder wall.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If pistons stuck at bottom, could a broken ring cause to to not want to rotate ?

Last resort to un seize is to take off primary side cover, and see if can use a wrench to move motor since back tire will skid if try and manually move in 5th gear with plugs out.

Where would I use a breaker bar on crank to turn ?

Never seen a vid or anything yet on which bolt to turn while gear in neutral.

2000 sporty 883 converted to 1200.

Thanks for any feedback.

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  #2  
Old 5th July 2021
Maxeffort Maxeffort is offline
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You don’t want to force it to turn, it will only damage parts.

I can think of a few things that would lock up the engine.

If the crank doesn’t rock (rotates back and forth) at least a little bit, I going to think something is locking up the crank and not the pistons. Could be something in the oil pump, cam chest, stator, etc.. Or something was dropped into the crankcase and made itself to a place to jam the flywheel.
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  #3  
Old 5th July 2021
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groovemeisterus groovemeisterus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeffort View Post
You don’t want to force it to turn, it will only damage parts.

I can think of a few things that would lock up the engine.

If the crank doesn’t rock (rotates back and forth) at least a little bit, I going to think something is locking up the crank and not the pistons. Could be something in the oil pump, cam chest, stator, etc.. Or something was dropped into the crankcase and made itself to a place to jam the flywheel.

Thanks will check oil pump first


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  #4  
Old 5th July 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeffort View Post
You don’t want to force it to turn, it will only damage parts.

I can think of a few things that would lock up the engine.

If the crank doesn’t rock (rotates back and forth) at least a little bit, I going to think something is locking up the crank and not the pistons. Could be something in the oil pump, cam chest, stator, etc.. Or something was dropped into the crankcase and made itself to a place to jam the flywheel.

Oil pump was returning oil to tank. Made sure of that . But could have seized again. Nothing dropped in. Took my time.

Heard bad stories about dragon man after sent jugs and pistons for bore. Thinking maybe also not enough assembly lube. And piston rings


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  #5  
Old 5th July 2021
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Default Just rebuilt low and top end, and it ran, then pistons stuck at bottom ?

Just finished taking off top end. Looks so far to be piston and or probably the rings from looking into cylinder.

No piston to valve contact which is great.

I’m hoping I just needed more assembly lube.

But so far thinking ring not gapped, or cylinder bore from Dragon man in CO for the +0.010 over bore that could possibly be off also.

I sent pistons in with jugs. Rear jug is std bore. Front is + one over. And made sure he put proper pistons in each jug.

Front jug. I had right rings for front bore.




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Last edited by groovemeisterus; 5th July 2021 at 04:59.. Reason: spelling
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  #6  
Old 5th July 2021
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Rear jug


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Old 5th July 2021
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Regardless of where you get the rings/pistons from you must check ring gap yourself.
Many suppliers will do that for you for an extra charge but you always check.

Also I don't know for sure but the front piston looks off (twisted) to me.
Might be the angle of the photo.
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  #8  
Old 5th July 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by decman View Post
Regardless of where you get the rings/pistons from you must check ring gap yourself.
Many suppliers will do that for you for an extra charge but you always check.

Also I don't know for sure but the front piston looks off (twisted) to me.
Might be the angle of the photo.

Yes angle of photo. I still need to check the piston itself for damage. I put rings in and checked gap by pushing piston in to square up rings. The gap looked good to me.

If jug wasn’t bored wide enough, I’m thinking I might not have used enough assembly lube.


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