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Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Top End issues. Rockerboxes, Valves, Cylinders, Pistons, Rings, Lift Rods, etc...

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  #11  
Old 3 Days Ago
John Harper John Harper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xLoneRiderx View Post
I was recommended to stick to Dyna 2000i CURVE 3, with this fine tuning procedure: static time the ignition module and then retard it about 1 mm in order to move whole curve 3 down to 30 degrees.
As already stated, I had several email conversations with Dan @ NRHS who kindly suggest his best approaches to tuning questions I made re the NRHS Street Dominator 883-1250 Conversion Kit.

(see below chart from Dynatek Instruction Sheet)


I was instructed to do the same timing procedure, but use Curve 4 and no more than 28 degrees total timing advance (.030" retarded from TDC). That seems the only difference in our builds. Good luck in identifying the problem, I am very interested in what you find. Mine seems to run well so far, at 600+ miles.

FYI, my oil temp seems to be stable at 200 F most the time. And, vibration seems a bit less than when it was an 883, but that's just my subjective observation.

John
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  #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post
I was instructed to do the same timing procedure, but use Curve 4 and no more than 28 degrees total timing advance (.030" retarded from TDC).
+1
Quote:
Originally Posted by xLoneRiderx View Post
I was recommended to stick to Dyna 2000i CURVE 3, with this fine tuning procedure: static time the ignition module and then retard it about 1 mm in order to move whole curve 3 down to 30 degrees.

Sure you rotated the plate the right direction?
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  #13  
Old 3 Days Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post
I was instructed to do the same timing procedure, but use Curve 4 and no more than 28 degrees total timing advance (.030" retarded from TDC). That seems the only difference in our builds. Good luck in identifying the problem, I am very interested in what you find. Mine seems to run well so far, at 600+ miles.

FYI, my oil temp seems to be stable at 200 F most the time. And, vibration seems a bit less than when it was an 883, but that's just my subjective observation.

John
I've just recheck the emails and yes, was told to choose CURVE 3, 7,000 rpm and retard to stay in between 28 and 30 degrees. I even asked "why not use curve 4 that has the lowest max. advance of all" and was answered (with lot of sense, I believed) that is preferable to try curve 3 and only change to curve 4 if there is any detonation.
Yes 200 F used to be my standard top oil temp too! hence the scare I had when saw 250 F during my last trip to the coast at the end of this summer.
It's really comforting to get your feedback provided we have same bike configuration. Thanks
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  #14  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
+1

Sure you rotated the plate the right direction?
With only 50% of possibilities to be wrong, the answer is yes, I turned the ignition module plate CCW to retard the whole curve 3. I previously had made a nice couple of touching marks to ease the task.

Below is a extract of the Dynatek Instruction Sheet

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  #15  
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Well, the good news is that you didn't scuff it. The piston got mildly hot, you can tell by the oil burnt into the underside of the dome, but I've seen a whole lot worse.

Question: when the oil temp got so high, was the motor sluggish? How about motor braking, did it feel like it was worse?
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  #16  
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Did you vent the umbrella to the air intake, What was the pilot jet size. What oil did you use and finally what was the rings's gap?

I see you wrote that 3500rpm max was use for the break in???
That's limit for lugging the engine. Personable I choose the 4500 max when under 500 miles. For the first 100 miles I restrain myself under 90kph. But never use the fifth gear.

I like to sit my piston rings on back road without being in traffic and dump my Brad Penn breaking oil after the first 100 km.

Dino oil for the 500 km. Then W 20-50 green oil. My piston never has that carbon build-up. I vent in an horse shoe with the breather bolt indexed the hole up.
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Final taught, did you change the umbrella valve when doing the conversion, often overlook, even on Hammer Performance site (reading this Aaron) they don't address those important parts.

Cracked umbrella, just spewed oil out, if you vent in the air cleaner, even worst.
Side hole indexed up, very important also and so more if you vent in the carb.
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  #18  
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A few comments from looking at small photos

The cylinder condition is not good and will need a re-hone

The prep looks bad.
It looks as it was honed without torque plates, the honing itself is odd. Coarse crosshatch at a shallow angle, then a fine few strokes at a steep angle..

It looks as it was assembled dirty, or it ingested dirt.

The skirts don’t look too bad, no sight of four corner scuffing or metal transfer.

Looks as the rings may have been butting, (not enough ring gap)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xLoneRiderx View Post
What does this pictures festival says to you...?
That you should mic the bores and pistons to see how round and straight the bores are and how loose the piston clearances are. Also check the ring end gaps.

Did you do your break-in running synthetic oil?

Last edited by Tomcatt; 2 Days Ago at 14:08..
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First piston pic post #10 the end of the ring looked chawed-on. Maybe butted too tight?

Just a guess. Other guys are very experienced on here
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